I just noticed I have a leak some where but not sure where yet. There seems to be fluid all above the rear differential it's even on the underside of the bed. Nothing on the axle, nothing from the rear diff. cover. Gonna have to investigate this a little further

 

rear pinion seal.......where the driveline goes in??

 

Yeppers. That is where it seems to be. That damn asphalt driveway is hot!!! How much of a job is it to change that out? Never done one those before

ok looks like a simple job. Can't get a seal til morning. Has to be overnight Anyways does that seal just pop out of there? And does anyone know the torque specs on it?
Thanks

 

i did one not to long ago the seal pops right in you just pop the yoke off the pinion gear torque specs on it dont remember exactly but you have to set the preload think it was somewhere around 9 inch pounds

 

I did mine not too long ago also. A slid hammer with a hook for seals helps alot, mine was junked in there pretty good. I was told I didn't need to pre load it due to the fact there was no crush sleve and I didnt mess with the shims.

But I recommend that slid hammer or a seal puller, at least have it on stand-by.

 

Mine probably needs doing too. Pinion has to come out?

 

My pinion didnt have to come out. Just had to take off the driveline, remove the big nut, pull the yoke, pull the seal, clean, install new seal, re-install yoke and drive line. Good time to do u-joints as well

 

nope!

unhook the driveshaft

pull the pinion nut and yoke

pop the seal out!

take some emery cloth a polish where the seal rides, check for burrs!

pop the seal in with a seal installer or a block of wood!

slide the yoke on

torque to 250ftlbs, I think!

re-install the driveshaft


and thats it!

 

Thanks Guy's for the info
and Thanks Doc for Thanking them

 

There is a dust cover over the seal that you want to try and preserve if you can.

Make sure you check the yoke carefully. It don't seem to make much sense but the seal WILL wear the metal away where it rides. You might have a nice groove where it used to be. In that case you either need to get a new yoke or get a speedy sleeve. Most bearing shops will have them. Take them the yoke and they can measure it and get you the correct one.

The pinion nut torques to 440 ft.-lbs. Also before you take the nut off you want to mark it and the shaft. This is to make sure that when you go back together the nut is in the same spot. They say the bearings can sometimes get cocked and the nut is not where it used to be and will loosen up on you. When I did mine I marked it and torqued it and it came out exactly right. It doesn't hurt to take the extra 5 sec to mark it with a sharpie.

Also it is recommended that you buy a new pinion nut as they are a deformed thread and taking them on and off can mess up the nut. I didn't and so far so good but it is up to you.

The FSM wants you to take preload readings before you replace the seal with the wheels and brakes off. Then check it again after you replaced it. Should be the same with a slight increase for the drag on the new seal.

The seal goes in dry a little lube on the lip but nothing on the outside.

And make sure your seal surfaces are clean! Brake clean and emery cloth are your friends!