Originally posted by Mopar1973Man

This adjust will not fix a wore out APPS... Once the APPS is wore out there is nearly no way to hit the voltage mark and most of the time if you check it a day or two later it off the mark again...

 

That's the writeup I used...followed those instructions to the letter.

 

But if the APPS is wore out like Mopar pointed out?!? May have to buy a new one.

 

Basically if the APPS is out of calibration it wore out needs to be replaced...

All the people I've talked to that tried this recalibration of the APPS ended up telling me either...

1. The re-calibration worked for a short time but idle higier than normal. (Idle validation switch out of cal.) Then failed again short afterwards...
2. The calibration won't hold at all. Everytime they flick the throttle it goes to a new voltage.

So basically this is just a band-aid for huge wound... Just best to get a replacement APPS and not even mess with phyiscal calibration.

 

I can undestand this, but he also pointed out the recalibration process is faulty...

I am not trying to bandaid a faulty APPS, I will simply replace it now that I know its bad.

 

Think about the re-cal process...

1. We ALL know that we are not suppose to mess with the set screws on the arm for idle setting or other wise. But your twisting the sensor on the backside which is like playing with the screws...

2. But what your doing is turning the APPS sensor all over the place looking for a idle voltage not knowing if the idle validation switch are active or not. Remember there are 2 Switches.

The method needs to be redone with consideration of the idle validation switches... No one ever check for it. So someone SHOULD made a addon to the proceedure to include the idle validation switches and the possibility of FAILED APPS...

After studying this method and looking at the mechancial/electronic logic of it... It appears to be a fail prceedure at the current time...

 

So just replace the thing if it's out of spec is what I'm getting here...that right?

 

Yes...

 

I did this Apps adjustment at least 50,000 ago and check it once in a while just for the hell of it and it hasn't moved at all since the re-adjustment. Takes 2 seconds to check with a straight pin and a meter. Just poke the wire and get your reading, I wrote the proper reading down in my manual so i would know it without pulling the sensor apart every time.

I like band-aid fixes like that.