It seems to be an issue with the ignition. Sometimes the "ding ding ding" doesn't sound and that's usually when it won't start. Kinda weird how it does that. If I wiggle the ignition around and turn it on and off real fast it will start up. After it's started there are no problems whatsoever. Anybody ever had this problem?

 

Could be ignition switch or a wire shorting inside the column?

This just gets better and better doesnt it?

 

I think you got somebody that don't like you. They're out there in the middle of the night changin things around just to mess with yer head.

 

I wish I knew how to bypass the entire ignition setup with a switch and a button so I could know for sure....or just leave the switch and the button and consider the problem solved.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---


If I catch em.....

 

Never looked at the starters on these trucks but can't you just jump the feeds on the starter to start the truck. Never tried it on newer auto's but use to do it all the time on the old ones.

 

The starter part isn't the problem though. It's the ignition part, or the "on" position. If I could find where to bring power to for the ignition I could bypass it.

 

Did you find a fix for that thing. I just changed out the fuel filter which i have done several times in the past. Tried starting it and had a problem getting it to prime. Eventually i got it running and had no throttle response at all. Bled all the lines over and over and got the same thing. It sounds like (you said ) and huge cam although mine will run that way without dying. Wont clear out and has no change in the way it runs.

 

mine is doing the same thing that yours is doing but mine threw the CEL as soon as it started running rough. i can't remember all of the codes but there were 5 codes and 4 of the 5 were IP related (IP performance/range, IP controller failure, etc.) and the other code was a "turbo boost low" which is related to the IP crapping out. luckily, i was only about 5 miles from home and i decided to try and "putt" it home. it was slow goin' but i had my wife follow me through some back roads. was only able to go about 20-25 mph until i had to go up a hill, then it dropped to about 10 mph. while i am convinced that it probably is the IP i haven't had the motivation to start working on it yet. it "dead-pedaled" a couple of times but i thought that it was a loose connection or a bad tune with my quadzilla adrenaline. i guess i'll probably swap out some fuel line parts while i have the IP off. conveniently too, my transgo valve body upgrade kit came the same day that the truck went south. as if i didn't have enough to do before my wife gives birth anyday now

 

I have the same problem as originally stated. Rough idle then dies. There is no rhyme or reason to it. It might do it once, fifteen times, or start perfect the first time. 1999 Dodge 2500 with VP44, 2wd, NV4500.

I'm lucky enough to work on these trucks, rebuild, and part them out, through my shop... so I have tons of stuff laying around. Here's what I have tried:

No codes in ECM or PCM.
Changed VP44 twice (once with a running 98.5 and it still runs great).
ECM once.
PCM once.
APPS twice.
Cam sensor once.
Crank sensor once.
Lift pump once (even though it shows good psi through gauge at IP).
Checked all electrical plug ins everywhere and fuel return regulator at IP.
Checked all engine and truck grounds.
Checked and cleaned battery terminals.
Swapped batteries.
Fuel filter.
Changed filter housing assembly.

What I am about to do today: Drop tank and finish the uninstall on the in tank LP. It's only been uninstalled electrically so far. The second LP I installed is on the block. I am going to make sure the vent is not obstructed at tank. I'll be checking voltage to IP and APPS, as well as ground. Checking fuel return volume.

I have injectors ready to go in, but trying to eliminate everything else.

I'm stumped for the most part. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I say this alot but what does the pump do if you put it in standalone? Like previously stated could be overflow valve but you'll need to borrow a fuel pressure gauge and some fittings. Those two items can eliminate the vp from future diagnoses.

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