Hello diesel bombers,

As noted above I am new here, and glad to be a member. However I have a problem. I currently am in the market for a 1998.5-02 24V and have aprox. 14k to spend. I found an awesome truck however it has 208k miles and an automatic. now I know that's nothing for the motor but I'm wondering what problems might arise in the near future as far as mechanical/electrical and things like that. They are asking 10.5k for the truck and I feel the price is fair but this is the first time I've looked at a cummins in about 10 years so I'm not sure how they "age".

Some more specific questions:

Is 10.5k reasonable for 208k with effect leather interior and a decent body?

What can I expect from the automatic transmission if I throw a little more power at it?

The steering felt a little sloppy on the 35's is this common?

Any reason to not buy a 24v cummins?

Besides the "53" block is there anything else to avoid in a 2nd gen?

 

10,5K would be good IF the paint is good and the interior is good (no rips, cracks). If you add power to a 47re transmission that hasn't had upgraded parts in it, it will extremely shorten the life span of the transmission. However, these auto trans were not the best thing in stock form either.

As for the steering you can get replacement parts at decent prices and do it yourself in your driveway.

Also if you purchase this truck get gauges (fuel pressure, egt, trans temp, boost) and a FASS. The factory lift pump is junk. If it goes out and you don't know it, it will fry the VP44. As for the 53 block. Don't be scared, however, check the block for cracks prior to purchase. With that many miles on it, it would have cracked by now.

 

Just a thought, I paid $13,000 for my truck, with 103,000 miles on it and it had already had a VP44 replacement. The original factory lift pump is a poor setup of a relatively ok pump. It's designed to push fuel not pull it. The VP44 needs excess fuel circulating through it and back to the tank to cool the electronics in the injection pump and to lubricate the mechanicals as well as run the engine. My truck's PO told me he tried the factory upgrades of the elctrical with a draw straw and then the in the tank version before settling on the electrical frame mounted pump. I have 173,000 miles now and the fuel pressure still runs 13.5 PSI even at high throttle settings when pulling my 30' weekend warrior up a grade. According to other sources anything over 5 PSI is adequate, higher is better up to about 15 PSI. Better filtration is always better but if you want a good interim fuel lift pump the frame mounted version of the factory pump should get you by. I had to retire early due to injuries at work and so don't have the money I expected to have so I'm still running that pump instead of upgrading. Hope this helps.
Chris