New crank sensor, still P0336
#1
New crank sensor, still P0336
I have read several threads about this and am leaning towards a bad new sensor. I just cant bring myself to replace a new sensor. The truck starts hard, idles fine, no codes until I hit the throttle, then P0336 and runs awful. It has a FASS, Edge with attitude, and show 16PSI fuel.
I have cleaned the grounds, getting 5 volts to sensor, wiring to ECM looks good and OHMs out good.
I tried checking voltage on the signal wire and never have more than .5 volts while turning the crank by hand, not sure if this actually works.
So, any ideas, or just replace the sensor?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I have noticed that the grid heater doesn't cycle and the pump doesn't run unless I cycle the key three times. On the third cycle the pump kicks on and the wait to start light comes on and I can here the heater solenoid cycle. The truck fires right up no hard start. I still have no tach and I still have a P0336 code.
I have cleaned the grounds, getting 5 volts to sensor, wiring to ECM looks good and OHMs out good.
I tried checking voltage on the signal wire and never have more than .5 volts while turning the crank by hand, not sure if this actually works.
So, any ideas, or just replace the sensor?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I have noticed that the grid heater doesn't cycle and the pump doesn't run unless I cycle the key three times. On the third cycle the pump kicks on and the wait to start light comes on and I can here the heater solenoid cycle. The truck fires right up no hard start. I still have no tach and I still have a P0336 code.
Last edited by scootgarage; 04-14-2014 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
I have read several threads about this and am leaning towards a bad new sensor. I just cant bring myself to replace a new sensor. The truck starts hard, idles fine, no codes until I hit the throttle, then P0336 and runs awful. It has a FASS, Edge with attitude, and show 16PSI fuel.
I have cleaned the grounds, getting 5 volts to sensor, wiring to ECM looks good and OHMs out good.
I tried checking voltage on the signal wire and never have more than .5 volts while turning the crank by hand, not sure if this actually works.
So, any ideas, or just replace the sensor?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I have noticed that the grid heater doesn't cycle and the pump doesn't run unless I cycle the key three times. On the third cycle the pump kicks on and the wait to start light comes on and I can here the heater solenoid cycle. The truck fires right up no hard start. I still have no tach and I still have a P0336 code.
I have cleaned the grounds, getting 5 volts to sensor, wiring to ECM looks good and OHMs out good.
I tried checking voltage on the signal wire and never have more than .5 volts while turning the crank by hand, not sure if this actually works.
So, any ideas, or just replace the sensor?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
I have noticed that the grid heater doesn't cycle and the pump doesn't run unless I cycle the key three times. On the third cycle the pump kicks on and the wait to start light comes on and I can here the heater solenoid cycle. The truck fires right up no hard start. I still have no tach and I still have a P0336 code.
Could be the sensor ring, air gap, sensor or ecm.
As for the three key turn, couldn't tell you without seeing it. That could be a faulty ignition switch, wiring, pcm or ecm.
If this leads in the direction of a computer I'd definitely check powers and grounds prior to anything replacement.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
#3
I cleaned the plug on the vp44. Found corrosion on a pin in the plug on the firewall. Cleaned and greased those plugs. Cleaned and greased the fuel pump relay connection. The alternator went up in smoke so I replaced that. My delayed wait to start issue has gone away and the fuel pump primes now. I still had po336 so I replaced the cps again and now that problem is gone. So obviously I just have multiple bad connections and maybe a faulty new sensor.
#4
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