Okay I bought this truck in july super cheap off a friend. Its a basket case and full of grimlins. Its a 2001 24 valve cummins qc/sb with 233 k miles fass 95 gph lp, aftermarket injectors, sb dual disk clutch, 5sp, cold air induction, edge juice with attitude. When I bought the truck it ran great for a couple weeks then I noticed it dead pedaled for the first mile after start-up after sitting for a long time. Then it started cutting out and I got white smoke out of the stack. I had a 216 code so I changed the ip. I had a hard time priming the system afterwards but eventually got it started. Since the ip change ive had hard start problems. I installed a relay to cut out the lp during cranking. Juice with attitude says I have 21 psi at idle and may fall to 17 psi during hard throttle. Its still hard starts now and I dont get any codes. It still dead pedals to. It has always dripped oil and today I noticed a big puddle after parking it. It looked thin. I pulled the dipstick and it was right where it was when I changed the oil which cant be cuz it has dripped since day one. The oil does look thin but it doesnt smell like diesel and is jet black making me think it isnt water and I still can bury the boot gauge at 38 psi if I want. So do u think it could be leaking past the rings because of all the hardstarts since july or do I have a bad o-ring someplace and during the ip change I made it worse causing the hardstarts and allowing some fuel to leak by into the oil and maybe causing the deal pedal at start up. It runs great once Iget it going and warmed up. Once again I have no codes this time. But im not driving until I change the oil... I do notice a slight fluctuation in the temp gauge but it isnt much at all probably normal just noticed it now. And my batteries are older and tend to be on the lower side of the gauge when cranking. Please help has anyone had issues like this or seen anything like this

 

sounds like you are all over the place with this thing.

first things first... why do you have the lift pump cut out while cranking?!

it should be wired on a relay and using the factory lift pump wiring to control when it turns on and off which is controlled by the ECM...by default the ECM runs the lift pump at 20% power during cranking to reduce lift pump pressure during cranking, then at 100% power once the engine is running.

my airdog is hooked properly and I run 20psi at idle and do not experience hard starts.

next what weight of oil are you running? should be running 15w40 API CI-4 or CJ-4 rated oil.

lastly...if you have bad o-rings on the injection pump, that needs to be fixed. also does the hard start happen on a warm or cold motor, or both?

 

Actually the pump runs for a few seconds with key on and shuts off until a you're running. Still 12v at the pump.

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Okay, it doesnt cut out anymore I chsnged the ip. I run rotella t 15w-40. I have a truck that must have a bad wait to start set up because the fass lp will run even while cranking. My guess is the ecm doesnt shut it off. If the key is forward it runs until I push it all the way forward just cutting it out while cranking. I dont have bad o rings at the ip im asking it fuel in the oil maybe a bad o ring on a transfer tube or injector. That ma y be causing leakage around the injector and into the oil and causing hardstarts or I have a problem someplace else causing hardstarts and since I crank the truck 3 or 4 the flooding is causing fuel in the oil?

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The hardstarts happen at all times... worse when im parked with the grille downhill... after I warm the truck up it doesnt do it... usually starts right up. Idk like i said its a basket case and ill find something dmall fix it it starts 3 or 4 days perfect then goes back to its old ways... I changed all the fuel lines thought I was leaking air but now it doesnt seem like a leak ... cou. Just be a faulty ecm? Or my edge? Tonight im going to change the oil look my injector o rings and trtransfer

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Tube o rings over and unhook my edge for a while and see if that does anything... the problem is one day its not so bad and the next its f-ed up again! Which makes me think electronic

 

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right out of the factory service manual.

and yes the pump runs 3-5 seconds with key on until you start cranking...during cranking the pump runs again in mode 2 (25% duty cycle) until the engine is running, then it switches to mode 1 (100% duty cycle)

 

That was eliminated with a updated flash at some point. Ill find the flash sheet somewhere. I also have some graphs that show they typically cutoff with key in start and return to 12v when started.

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Alright I went through the fuel lines I got nothing.... I unhooked the edge chip it through a 216 code... this pump doesnt have 10 k miles on it and the last pump did the same thing. The chip says I have 21 psi and it drops to 17 at hard throttle... unless it has some air doubt that can happen? Im not worried about the relay I could care less I just want it to start easier andstop dead ppedaling

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Maybe it has a cracked diaphragm but I wouldnt think id build 21 sometimes 22 psi... I havent checked the relays maybe I should just change them...

 

For the dead pedal try the adjusting your APPS sensor.

Here's a link on it:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-2...s-i-bored.html

As for the hard starting my truck had the same problem. I recommend cracking each fuel line and purging the system. It worked for my truck. It doesn't make much sense that they'd run perfectly fine with air in the lines but that's the only cause I could come up with on why mine was hard starting. Also fuel could possibly be leaking around your quill or connecting tubes whatever you prefer to call them an easy way to this would be to get dye and put it in your fuel system and remove the valve cover and hit it with a black light and we if any fuel is noticeable. I wouldn't quite think an injector is leaking into the combustion chamber unless you are getting a hoof of black smoke upon start up . Another thing about the lift pump I just wired mine to run all the time so I know fuel is always at my injection pump. I was told VP's don't exactly like that but I haven't had any trouble with mine. Hope that helps or gives you somewhere to go with your search.

 

fouled injector nozzles will cause a hard start. a bad oring on a crossover tube could also cause your hard start along with a helping of fuel in your oil. I had some cheap chinese injectors that I put in right after I bought mine and put an ip in it. after about 6 months, I fouled the tips and she would cold start really hard, and fairly easy after she was warm. Put some new nozzles on my oe injectors, now she starts great.