Help, i have a 99 cummins im going to get into detail on things so sorry for punctuation i have nv4500, 150 cpp nozzels, fass 150 platinum with high pressure inline gate valve on return end to adjust my pressure instead of springs. VP44 replaced 30,000 miles ago never ran out of fuel or ran below 10 PSI every other full tank i would run a few ounces or Bel Ray premix oil for added lubrication, always ran RBP additive. AFE stage two intake aurora 4000 turbo, quadzilla adrenaline 1000 series bought before EPA shut down.

what i did before....
-fuel prime issue for a few starts found stock filter housing drain valve started to not correctly seal. bypassed it and ran straight into VP. in the process of frustration i cleaned the tank, 3/8s lines return and pressure, build a B/A draw straw with no 1/4 issue. runs to empty no air. pulled every injector every line and thoroughly cleaning EVERYTHING!!! flow and pop tested of course.
-I replaced battery cables cleaned grounds looks good... replaced wires to spec.
-started the truck after a week working continuous never sounded so clean so pure... ran smooth
- regained confidence with my 24v
-boosted up and had to open it up right. WRONG!!!

- tac drops out pops surges over reved dead spot blah blah
no news to me only the 11th crank sensor this year, used every brand have 3 spares in truck and im way too fast at a job i dont want to be anymore
-ok i multimeter everything, all in check. codes thrown... 0382,0336,1690,0253 for the record.
tac works great starts fine.... but
small surging slight miss fire sounding around 2000 rpm, nothing radical but not as good as the week prior....
then i have spontaneous check engine light that chimes and flashes going down the road then truck feels strange again... no stored codes... nothing....

going to replace cam sensor, pull oil pan for the 3rd time to make sure reluctor ring is exact.

whats next? check everything running on that 5v power supply...

no offense but im seeing more 6.0 powerstrokes reliable....

sad day

 

Hate to say it but I think your vp44 is bad

 

well im hoping not.. if it is ive got to go P-Pump haha. over this electrical war

 

Oscilliscope is next

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alright new problem.... using a multimeter both batteries unhooked both read 11.6v... dash reads about the same... turn key over just clicks jumped with my poor 4 cylinder toy and starts dash voltage reads 12ish with truck running and still hooked to toy. i remove jumper cables to let run and voltage continuously drops and all lights ect dim and eventually truck died. re checked battery voltage got 11.4v and 11.5v. lights on dash said check gauges, airbag, check engine, and abs... i have checked grounds replaced wires. replaced battery cables themselves. batteries are a few months old. ive gone through 11 crank sensors this year! do i have a junk ECM or a truck begging to be lit on fire??

 

How did you check grounds?

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OHM meter read resistance from my grounding points to contact grounds

 

That wont show a ground fault. You'll need to test your grounds loaded on the mV scale. Anything over 100mV is a faulty ground. I think I'd start with an oscilloscope and watch the xrank sensor and check ecm powers and grounds. Use a scan tool to verify crank sensor is providing engine speed to the computers.

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ok i will do that. all these problems started after the last crank sensor. im having my batteries load tested. i had my alt checked and it wasnt supplying any power. which is strange. slapped the new one in waiting to go pick up my batteries. i dont have access to a good scanner i just have a handheld one to pull codes. ill recheck my grounds as you said to make sure i even pulled everyone of cleaned points of contact. um next thing is through the wiring diagrams i have been looking at the sensors controlled off the 5v system are all daisy chained together. now could a faulty sensor such as a cam or oil sensor start to become faulty or creating some sort of cover current taking power away from the other sensors. also the batteries say they are good when i just voltage check them. now lets say all my main grounds and ect are good does the PCM have a hot wire coming from some circuit or is it off the ignition. same with the ecu. i want to be able to check to make absolutely sure they are getting correct voltage. PS thank you for helping me out my local Cummins tech told me i dont have a ECU its all controlled by my PCM and the computer on the block is just a back up sensor compactor. i wish i could get my degree through a gum ball machine haha. if you have any idea what to check even if i have to tear this whole thing apart i will i just am out of ideas...

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also idk if this would affect anything. i bypassed my fuel canister and left my water in fuel and fuel heater unplugged and removed my canister as a whole... bad idea? or is it not going to screw things up. when the batteries were just in i checked them and they had 6v and 7v on them when hooked up. so i took them down they hooked up their load test device and read almost 11v. when i would turn the key to on the dash gauges would slowly pulse but not read anything. i could put my head by the PDC and hear the relays clicking and about 2 more minutes they would click again. what could be pulling that much draw. with the new alt on i again jumped the truck with the toy and got it started but as soon as i took the cables off no more then 1 minute truck died no like a fuel loss choke but instant. haha

 

A complete list of checks and test to diagnose this problem would be pages upon pages of typing. Where are you located. Its possible I could help you find someone to take a look at it!

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