Considering stepping up to a diesel
#11
Yes, but there's a lot more to a new truck than bodywork. There's the lack of rattles in the dash, squeaks in the cab, wind noise in the doors, especially the quad cabs. Generally, a young cabin is a tight cabin and one that's been uh... loved a long time... isn't. There's perky seats and plush carpet, fresh door and window motors, clean wiring. Then there's stiff springs, solid ball joints and nicely charged dampers. Blower motors that don't make noise and cruise control that works like it should. Sure, all of this stuff is easy enough to do, if you like the idea of restoring a truck because it has an engine that makes it worth the effort; but if you have the means and a virgin is available, why not get one that hasn't been broken in by someone else and treat it right from the start? That's all I'm saying. It's either worth it to you or it isn't, but for those who think that way, just about any price can start to look reasonable.
TO THE OP
Location depends on the price. Also a manual will sell for a bit more than a auto. Things you have to look at is what it will need to keep going. If it doesnt have a aftermarket lift pump it WILL need one. Also it WILL need a fuel psi gauge. Before I would buy a truck at that price I would want to make sure it has been supplied with good fuel psi. Tho not having these items can make a deal for you if you know what you are talking about. Telling the dealer it needs a aftermarket lift pump. Low psi will result in you needing a 1,000.00 injection pump.
Now as far as aftermarket gauges fuel psi first then pyro,boost and tranny temp(if its an auto) If you ever plan to make a little bit more power you will need to address the tranny. The auto's can only handle about 60hp over stock. Manuals will take about 100hp before it needs a clutch. Personally if its a completely stock auto I wouldnt pay 20k for it. My truck had 139k on it and 41k on the warranty replaced cummins engine. Absolutely no rust on it and is a 6 speed with mods. I got it for 14k and best part it was owned by a dodge service manager. He had the engine replaced before the warranty was up
#12
Thanks everyone for the replies. Along with this one I am considering a 05 F250 and an 02 Chevy both diesels. From what everyone has taught me I think the Dodge and the Chevy are out of the question as I don't want to deal with the #53 block, soft tranny (I have a heavy foot and will mod for more HP) nor the issues tied to the LB7 engine in the Chevy. I know the Ford also has it's issues with the 6.0l engine. The same dealer has the Dodge and Chevy and won't budge however the Ford dealer is willing to dicker so I tryed to lowball them at 10k (Salesman didn't bat an eye) and if I can get into it (05 F250 4x4 XLT Auto 6.0l 4x4 Super cab with an 8 foot bed w/99,000 miles) for that price will probably do it knowing I'm going to have to sink a few k to make it reliable.
#13
And pulling the cab to do those head gaskets. Id rather sink a few grand into a tranny then a engine. Sell your truck privately and find a cummins. Anything at the dealer is usually over priced. In my order dodge is first then chevy then ford. My buddy sold his common rail for a 6.4 ford and not even a year later he is looking for another cummins to replace his ford. You can find a 2nd gen dodge 100-150k with a auto in decent shape for about 10-15k. Depending on how much power you want to go with. You can do a converter and valve body for pretty cheap. I wouldnt worry about buying a cummins with 150k + on it. There is a few guys I know of that dd theirs at 700-1,000,000 miles. Yes a million miles on his original motor. Thats on a 5.9 24v
#14
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#17
I find it nearly impossible to believe your truck doesn't make any noises it didn't make when it was new, but then again, my cab was all but silent with 100K more than yours when I pulled the dash out and it was all down hill from there. Regardless, miles add up and things loosen up, it's just a fact of use. Point of the whole thing being, I would never pay $20K for a 2nd gen that didn't have a 12V in it, but I can understand why someone would.
#18
to the OP. I would steer way clear of the Ford. I maintain a fleet of diesel Fords and the 6.0 is garbage. The 6.4 is way worse. I am not a Ford Hater but I can tell you that reliability is not there strong suit. There are things you can do to the 6.0 to make it reliable. Head studs, bullet proof egr cooler, Bullet Proof remote oil cooler etc. None of these add power but will greatly improve the reliability of the 6.0. They still are not as reliable as the Cummins and harder to work on. Also figure on spending $5000 dollars or so to have all this installed. There is a reason that there are several kits out there for swapping the Cummins motor into a Ford.
As much as I am die hard mopar, I fully admit that the Dodge body and interior are not as good as the Ford.
The 6.4 is worse than the 6.0... Way harder to work on, nothing is accessable, everything is expensive, No real kits to improve the reliability. Still suffers from the same problems as the 6.0. We are scrapping all of our trucks at 120k because the engines are not worth dumping money into anymore.
That being said 2010 and newer Fords with the 6.7 are very good and reliable. Only downside on those trucks is the brakes dont last.
If I was going to get a Ford I would get a 2002 or earlier with a 7.3 Powerstroke.
The transmission issues on the Dodge are not as bad as everyone makes out. If you take care of your transmission and service it properly, they will last as long as the Ford. If it really bothers you find one with a 5 speed or 6 speed manual.
I dont know much about the GM diesels so I wont comment on them good or bad. I worked at Dodge as a Diesel tech for 15 years and currently work for Baker Hughes Wireline as a Fleet Manager for the last 3.
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My truck was taken care of maintenance wise but was beaten on by which ever oil worker was driving it in the oilfields that day. I have not heard any rattles and as far as squeaks, there is the clutch linkage and door hinges that only required a shot of spray lube. My truck has 215000. Honestly if it wasnt for that dang dashes crumbling on these trucks, I wouldnt consider the interior to be poor quality. I have replaced my dash and it feels like a new truck.
As much as I am die hard mopar, I fully admit that the Dodge body and interior are not as good as the Ford.
The 6.4 is worse than the 6.0... Way harder to work on, nothing is accessable, everything is expensive, No real kits to improve the reliability. Still suffers from the same problems as the 6.0. We are scrapping all of our trucks at 120k because the engines are not worth dumping money into anymore.
That being said 2010 and newer Fords with the 6.7 are very good and reliable. Only downside on those trucks is the brakes dont last.
If I was going to get a Ford I would get a 2002 or earlier with a 7.3 Powerstroke.
The transmission issues on the Dodge are not as bad as everyone makes out. If you take care of your transmission and service it properly, they will last as long as the Ford. If it really bothers you find one with a 5 speed or 6 speed manual.
I dont know much about the GM diesels so I wont comment on them good or bad. I worked at Dodge as a Diesel tech for 15 years and currently work for Baker Hughes Wireline as a Fleet Manager for the last 3.
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I find it nearly impossible to believe your truck doesn't make any noises it didn't make when it was new, but then again, my cab was all but silent with 100K more than yours when I pulled the dash out and it was all down hill from there. Regardless, miles add up and things loosen up, it's just a fact of use. Point of the whole thing being, I would never pay $20K for a 2nd gen that didn't have a 12V in it, but I can understand why someone would.
Last edited by condor74; 02-19-2013 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#19
#20
Agreed.