Rear Pinion Seal
#1
09-03-2012, 08:28 AM
Rear Pinion Seal
Noticed the other day that i had a few drops on the driveway, looked underneith to inspect and saw there was gear oil all over the the place and located to source of the leak, It appears to be the Rear Pinion Seal, went out and bought the seal, and plan on doing the job today. Is there anything i should look out for or need to know before doing this job. Doesnt seem too hard to do.
#2
09-03-2012, 09:07 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
#3
09-03-2012, 09:15 AM
#4
09-03-2012, 02:47 PM
Definitely check your breather for the differential/axle. They are known to get plugged with age and rust/dirt. Sometimes the little tube that goes into the axle where the vent hose connects will actually rot off and plug itself solid, thereby blowing the pinion and/or axleshaft seals out. I've seen it happen.
#5
09-03-2012, 03:55 PM
#6
09-03-2012, 04:35 PM
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RAW (09-03-2012)
#8
09-16-2012, 11:34 AM
Some other things to add to this video.
You forgot to ADD GEAR OIL to the rear DIFFERENTIAL/AXLE when you were finished!
Honestly, that's the most important part of this job!
I also call into question why on earth you wouldn't have removed the rear diff cover and drained out the old dirty nasty gear oil?
You should ALWAYS change the differential fluid out whenever you are in there doing any kind of repair work. This isn't the time to be a cheap skate. Oil is still (and always will be) cheaper than replacing your vehicle's rear end.
Also, don't forget to add a limited slip additive if the vehicle's rear differential requires it. If you don't know if it's needed (or are just too lazy to find out), for around $10 bucks, it's cheap insurance and won't hurt anything if you didn't need it.
There are torque specs for the pinion nut on most rwd vehicle axles. Typically, it's what sets the pinon shaft bearings pre-load. It's a really good idea to find out the torque spec and re-torque the nut correctly with a torque wrench, and not just guess by trying to get your former paint pen marks lined up and counting threads. (That's some pretty shade-tree 1/2-assed mechanic work.) A dab of blue threadlocker (loctite) on the pinion shaft threads is a real good idea also, since you are choosing to re-use the old locknut.
I do like the fact that you installed the seal and the yoke with a little lube on the seal lip, and grey gear lube RTV sealant in the yoke spline. It really isn't necessary for around the seal body unless you damaged the new seal's outer seating surface or the pinion shaft bore where the seal seats into the axle. New seals typically have a light coating on them that is more than sufficient to seal up any minor imperfections when they are installed.
Finally, you didn't show that you checked the breather tube and hose for any obstructions. That's also a very critical step in preventing future seal leaks (for both pinion or axle shaft seals).
All in all it's an ok video, but it could have been a bit better. Particularly because experienced mechanics don't need to learn from this, it's the newbies that need a good how-to video.
#9
09-16-2012, 10:43 PM
Some other things to add to this video.
You forgot to ADD GEAR OIL to the rear DIFFERENTIAL/AXLE when you were finished!
Honestly, that's the most important part of this job!
I also call into question why on earth you wouldn't have removed the rear diff cover and drained out the old dirty nasty gear oil?
You should ALWAYS change the differential fluid out whenever you are in there doing any kind of repair work. This isn't the time to be a cheap skate. Oil is still (and always will be) cheaper than replacing your vehicle's rear end.
Also, don't forget to add a limited slip additive if the vehicle's rear differential requires it. If you don't know if it's needed (or are just too lazy to find out), for around $10 bucks, it's cheap insurance and won't hurt anything if you didn't need it.
There are torque specs for the pinion nut on most rwd vehicle axles. Typically, it's what sets the pinon shaft bearings pre-load. It's a really good idea to find out the torque spec and re-torque the nut correctly with a torque wrench, and not just guess by trying to get your former paint pen marks lined up and counting threads. (That's some pretty shade-tree 1/2-assed mechanic work.) A dab of blue threadlocker (loctite) on the pinion shaft threads is a real good idea also, since you are choosing to re-use the old locknut.
I do like the fact that you installed the seal and the yoke with a little lube on the seal lip, and grey gear lube RTV sealant in the yoke spline. It really isn't necessary for around the seal body unless you damaged the new seal's outer seating surface or the pinion shaft bore where the seal seats into the axle. New seals typically have a light coating on them that is more than sufficient to seal up any minor imperfections when they are installed.
Finally, you didn't show that you checked the breather tube and hose for any obstructions. That's also a very critical step in preventing future seal leaks (for both pinion or axle shaft seals).
All in all it's an ok video, but it could have been a bit better. Particularly because experienced mechanics don't need to learn from this, it's the newbies that need a good how-to video.
You forgot to ADD GEAR OIL to the rear DIFFERENTIAL/AXLE when you were finished!
Honestly, that's the most important part of this job!
I also call into question why on earth you wouldn't have removed the rear diff cover and drained out the old dirty nasty gear oil?
You should ALWAYS change the differential fluid out whenever you are in there doing any kind of repair work. This isn't the time to be a cheap skate. Oil is still (and always will be) cheaper than replacing your vehicle's rear end.
Also, don't forget to add a limited slip additive if the vehicle's rear differential requires it. If you don't know if it's needed (or are just too lazy to find out), for around $10 bucks, it's cheap insurance and won't hurt anything if you didn't need it.
There are torque specs for the pinion nut on most rwd vehicle axles. Typically, it's what sets the pinon shaft bearings pre-load. It's a really good idea to find out the torque spec and re-torque the nut correctly with a torque wrench, and not just guess by trying to get your former paint pen marks lined up and counting threads. (That's some pretty shade-tree 1/2-assed mechanic work.) A dab of blue threadlocker (loctite) on the pinion shaft threads is a real good idea also, since you are choosing to re-use the old locknut.
I do like the fact that you installed the seal and the yoke with a little lube on the seal lip, and grey gear lube RTV sealant in the yoke spline. It really isn't necessary for around the seal body unless you damaged the new seal's outer seating surface or the pinion shaft bore where the seal seats into the axle. New seals typically have a light coating on them that is more than sufficient to seal up any minor imperfections when they are installed.
Finally, you didn't show that you checked the breather tube and hose for any obstructions. That's also a very critical step in preventing future seal leaks (for both pinion or axle shaft seals).
All in all it's an ok video, but it could have been a bit better. Particularly because experienced mechanics don't need to learn from this, it's the newbies that need a good how-to video.
First off bro, I didn't make the video!!
I simply put it up to help the OP.
So hold you tongue there super mechanic until you know what is going on. I am sure the guy who made the video knows what he is doing. If not I am sure he would love to hear what you have to say....
Last edited by H.R.D; 09-16-2012 at 11:01 PM.
#10
09-18-2012, 11:04 PM
First off bro, I didn't make the video!!
I simply put it up to help the OP.
So hold you tongue there super mechanic until you know what is going on. I am sure the guy who made the video knows what he is doing. If not I am sure he would love to hear what you have to say....
I simply put it up to help the OP.
So hold you tongue there super mechanic until you know what is going on. I am sure the guy who made the video knows what he is doing. If not I am sure he would love to hear what you have to say....
Don't get all butt-hurt! 
By the way - LOL - I'm sure everybody that posts a YouTube video knows what they are doing - (LMAO... yeah, right!)
Oh, and thanks for the compliment... because yes, I AM a very good professional mechanic. (I don't know about "super", but whatever.)
Wow man... way to instigate an arguement and come off as a total DICK.
<--- Kiss it.
