1992 d350 powerhouse!
#1
1992 d350 powerhouse!
I just got a stock d250 5 speed with one owner and only 146000 miles! I plan on building a High HP drag truck, What i want to know is how many Hp do you think ill have if i put an HX35, 0.84 injector lines, 100HP ddp injectors 3500k gov spring, A Denny T stage 2 fuel pin, Bigger I/C, 4-5in exhaust, 3pc manifold, Head studs, And a south bend clutch.? I make enough $$$ to do this over the summer but there isn't a dyno close enough to go to.
#2
I'm gonna guess no more than 250hp.
- I don't know what a 100hp injector is. 100hp with what kind of fine-print (supporting mods)? Start thinking of injectors in terms of: 4x.010, 4x.012, 5x.010, 5x.014, 6x.014, 6x.016, etc. How many holes, by, What size hole (in thousandths of an inch). Using simple math allows us to determine total cross-section area. Read this: 1stGen.org • View topic - INJECTOR CHART
- 0.84 injector lines are a Total waste of your money. Our VE injection pumps don't move near enough fuel to worry with bigger lines.
- I have all ideas that HX35 is on the small side for those injectors or larger. How hot are your current sustained WOT EGTs? If you're serious about building a High HP Drag Truck, The question might be: How fast do you want to go? It gets back to Big injectors with Big turbo(s). A huge single, or big twins? A big single is gonna be very laggy in a street driven truck. Twins can help in that regard but are more complex in install and has the two (2) turbos cost.
- In the case of a drag truck specific, the Denny-T fuel pin makes no difference. I drag-race at WOT.
- The only governor springs normally used in our mess that I'm aware of are: Our Stock/OEM 2800(?), the 3200, 3800, and 4200rpm springs. Keep in mind the typical stock/OEM 12mm VE injection pump's output rolls off substantially with increased RPM.
- I know nothing about the manual trans or clutch. I can break an automatic, does that count?
No dyno close by? Who cares. It's gonna be a drag truck. Take it to the strip and learn to dial-in your build while learning your launch. Make one tuning change at a time and make a pass to see if you're quicker, or slower. Your ET/Trap Speed combined with the total race-weight (you, and the truck) can be plugged into any number of On-Line HP calculators that can put you in the ball-park HP wise (+/-).
Understand bigger power, harder launches tests the strength of your going on 20 year-old stuff. A quick and fast ET is expensive.
- I don't know what a 100hp injector is. 100hp with what kind of fine-print (supporting mods)? Start thinking of injectors in terms of: 4x.010, 4x.012, 5x.010, 5x.014, 6x.014, 6x.016, etc. How many holes, by, What size hole (in thousandths of an inch). Using simple math allows us to determine total cross-section area. Read this: 1stGen.org • View topic - INJECTOR CHART
- 0.84 injector lines are a Total waste of your money. Our VE injection pumps don't move near enough fuel to worry with bigger lines.
- I have all ideas that HX35 is on the small side for those injectors or larger. How hot are your current sustained WOT EGTs? If you're serious about building a High HP Drag Truck, The question might be: How fast do you want to go? It gets back to Big injectors with Big turbo(s). A huge single, or big twins? A big single is gonna be very laggy in a street driven truck. Twins can help in that regard but are more complex in install and has the two (2) turbos cost.
- In the case of a drag truck specific, the Denny-T fuel pin makes no difference. I drag-race at WOT.
- The only governor springs normally used in our mess that I'm aware of are: Our Stock/OEM 2800(?), the 3200, 3800, and 4200rpm springs. Keep in mind the typical stock/OEM 12mm VE injection pump's output rolls off substantially with increased RPM.
- I know nothing about the manual trans or clutch. I can break an automatic, does that count?
No dyno close by? Who cares. It's gonna be a drag truck. Take it to the strip and learn to dial-in your build while learning your launch. Make one tuning change at a time and make a pass to see if you're quicker, or slower. Your ET/Trap Speed combined with the total race-weight (you, and the truck) can be plugged into any number of On-Line HP calculators that can put you in the ball-park HP wise (+/-).
Understand bigger power, harder launches tests the strength of your going on 20 year-old stuff. A quick and fast ET is expensive.
Last edited by BC847; 02-10-2012 at 08:05 PM.
#4
#5
#6
It won't go very fast at all when you roll your axle and bust u-joints.... get it to the ground first then build power... traction bars.. clutch... i would start saving for a race auto.. i had issues with the motor and tranny mounts on mine i had a machine shop make me some solid ones to hold everything in place... rear end locker... and then you can make hp to the rubber.... i had a II 62/80 on my second gen and i really liked it for racing but you got to be able to get it lit quick and keep it lit...keep the learn how to tune your VE pump... theres so many options on them to get them to run the best for u and your truck.. hope this helps!!!
#7
Have grown up around drag racing gas cars my whole life, big into diesels now, i have an hx35 on my 93 it was on their when i bought it and honestly didnt even know it was on their, an hx35 is a 54mm turbo and stock h1c is 50mm ull not notice 4mm much, go w atleast an hx40 to start, and dont buy injectors by hp numbers like BC847 said, listen to him he has a very fast truck, read all about it on page 10 or 11 in the show us your first gen sticky, good luck
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