1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

Achieving 250 hp.

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  #21  
Old 01-20-2012, 11:15 AM
93coalroller's Avatar
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Ive never had a problem with k&n but i just figured that the BHAF might be the better way to go. Id say since you have gauges, get a fuel pin or you can grind yours how you want it, and turn your full power screw in a turn or two. That should give you a little bit more power.
 
  #22  
Old 01-20-2012, 11:23 AM
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i hate to ruin the OP's thread with all this K&N B.S. there has been hundreds of post on this topic through the internet and it always turns out the same way as it has here in the last few post some like them some dont, there is no happy spot as it has been said before.

please note that i dont care for anything but a paper filter but if i had to use an oiled i would use an S&B..........

K&N filters have one of the worst filtration rates on the market here is a prime example,
a K&N filter that flows 600CFM is 6X4X2 cone shape where another brand filter say the stock one flows 600CFM and is 8X6X4 so how do you make something flow the same amount of air and be in a smaller package? you make the pleats bigger allowing more particles to "slip past" now this may or may not hurt the engine (depending on condition) but why risk it and as said above they have too many "hopes" that oil will trap everything but large rocks

here is a great test for you the next time you clean your K&N filter take your intake pipe off and shoot a little spot of oil inside there this will make most of the dirt that passes the filter stick then the next time you clean the filter look at the oil spot and see how dirty it is

and on a final note NO filter i have ever seen besides paper are double reinforced for forced induction now i have seen lots of filters not everyone ever made so i could be wrong here but i have yet to see one what this prevents is when your filter becomes very dirty and that ole turbo is sucking like a ***** in the parking lot your filter can collapse and be sucked right in this is a rare occasion but it can happen

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by sweetv8s10
Brice could u tell me what an S&B filter is made out of because they look an awful lot like a K&N?

oh and to answer this i dont remember the exact material but K&N is a cotton poly blend the other is a synthetic cotton

and the S&B flows something like (example) 20CFPI so in 1sq in 20CFM can pass and be filtered 99.9% where a K&N is 86%

its all in ratings and volume oil filters are the same way from wix, fram, K&N, Cummins ect ect filter 99.9% of the oil but only trap 52% of the crap where a cat brand filter, filters 99.9% of the oil and trap 99.9% of the crap now they cost 3 times as much and last 1/2 as long cuz they plug and bypass so is it worth it........
 

Last edited by big bad diesel 416; 01-20-2012 at 12:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #23  
Old 01-20-2012, 01:30 PM
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Hit a sore spot Brice? I'd love for my centrifuge to work properly so I'd have peace of mind no matter what oil filter I ran, but I think k & n were the entrepreneurs of the high performance filtration market so they just have a firmer hold and more of their claims are taken as gospel. But numbers don't lie, neither does logic, smaller filter flowing the same CFM, they have one hell of a secret hah!


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  #24  
Old 01-20-2012, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CUMMINStagetcha19
i'm not new to cummins, i'm new to first gens and non lock TC's. i didnt say i was going to go around "rolling coal" like a jack wagon. i want to familiarize myself with the VE pump and it's settings. and beable to tune it. the K&N will stay, and the trans/tc has about 5k miles on it. no boost leaks. i dont believe in throwing money at something for a solution. what pump mods, including a fuel pin # would you suggest? and would a smaller exhaust housing or an hx35 be a good solution? i have boost, egt, rpm, and trans temp gauges.
first i would look through this thread, go down till you see performance, check out the pump sections and read through them, make shure you read about runaway.

FAQ/Knowledge base "How do I...?" Look here first! A.K.A. "The Sticky" - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

the things i have in my sig would give you way over 250hp and i can tow anything with no problems from my EGT's.

as far as i'm conserned the HX35 is not a good upgrade, a super HX40, or an HX40 with a 7 blade wheel is a good upgrade, i have a GDS 60mm wheel and a 16cm housing on my HC1 and i can make 40psi boost with a max of 1250 EGT and while crusing down the hwy get 18.5 mpg.

as far as the air filtration, i use this one because john deere thinks it good enough for a combine....have you ever seen a combine in a been field.......if not you have probly seen the dust from it.

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Dar
 

Last edited by 1STGENFARMBOY; 01-20-2012 at 04:29 PM.
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  #25  
Old 01-20-2012, 05:55 PM
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to the post above... i am a john deere technician. thumbs up on the crossing over of parts. good way to clean air. this filter will keep clean air to a 7.6 liter engine cobbed out for 50 hours at least, not to mention not get plugged. i've have to SHOVEL the dirt out of the shop after knocking/ blowing one of these out. i will check out the sticky. thank you all for your input!
 
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