Fuel Heater?
#2
12-06-2011, 01:25 AM
You have to have another shorter stud if you wanna delete it. If its a leak between the heater and the head (which mine was), the O ring off of an old filter can sometimes fit right or (this was my case) it can be slightly modified via some sanding to fit in the groove on the heater and make a really good seal. Mine turned out to be a much better o ring than the original (which I couldn't find, napa or anywhere) and so far its doing great!
I had heard about the old filter ring deal so I took off the old O ring from the old filter, placed it up to the heater and saw that it was slightly too small of a circle to fit in the groove, and that the groove was too narrow for the thickness of the O ring. I went to Napa and other stores and couldn't get ahold of the right o-ring or the stud, so I went back, turned the O ring from the filter inside out, and rotated it slowly as i brushed the corner of the square O ring against a bench grinder till I had an even bevel all the way around the o ring, then turned it right side out (the ring should look like kind of a valve seat or something with a funnel shaped beveled inside) and put it in the groove (which it now fit in perfectly) and placed the heater back in place with the original stud. once I put my new filter back on it was perfect and has been since. I am still trying to find the OEM O ring but the po-dunk stores around here can't seem to do it so I guess ill just leave it. My old O ring had just shrunk to the point that it wasn't thick enough to make a good seal. I know it sounds like a hillbilly bandaid fix but the final result was pretty professional in all reality.
If you haven't already taken the stud out, ill explain what I did to do that or for anybody else that is looking at doing this because I didn't know until I did... I took a piece of 1/8" thick flat strap which was slightly too thick and pounded it slightly thinner to make it fit the slot on the bottom of the stud and used a crescent wrench to turn the strap. Some people said to use a washer but I tried that and washers were not even close to strong enough to break mine loose (maybe they're not all that tight) and the washers just bent. I pounded the flat bar thinner instead of grinding because a pounded one has much better hardness properties than a ground down one or a washer for that matter. A grade 8 washer might do the trick or something hard like that but I was using what I had and I was in my welding shop I work in and flat strap was more readily available than hardware.
I had heard about the old filter ring deal so I took off the old O ring from the old filter, placed it up to the heater and saw that it was slightly too small of a circle to fit in the groove, and that the groove was too narrow for the thickness of the O ring. I went to Napa and other stores and couldn't get ahold of the right o-ring or the stud, so I went back, turned the O ring from the filter inside out, and rotated it slowly as i brushed the corner of the square O ring against a bench grinder till I had an even bevel all the way around the o ring, then turned it right side out (the ring should look like kind of a valve seat or something with a funnel shaped beveled inside) and put it in the groove (which it now fit in perfectly) and placed the heater back in place with the original stud. once I put my new filter back on it was perfect and has been since. I am still trying to find the OEM O ring but the po-dunk stores around here can't seem to do it so I guess ill just leave it. My old O ring had just shrunk to the point that it wasn't thick enough to make a good seal. I know it sounds like a hillbilly bandaid fix but the final result was pretty professional in all reality.
If you haven't already taken the stud out, ill explain what I did to do that or for anybody else that is looking at doing this because I didn't know until I did... I took a piece of 1/8" thick flat strap which was slightly too thick and pounded it slightly thinner to make it fit the slot on the bottom of the stud and used a crescent wrench to turn the strap. Some people said to use a washer but I tried that and washers were not even close to strong enough to break mine loose (maybe they're not all that tight) and the washers just bent. I pounded the flat bar thinner instead of grinding because a pounded one has much better hardness properties than a ground down one or a washer for that matter. A grade 8 washer might do the trick or something hard like that but I was using what I had and I was in my welding shop I work in and flat strap was more readily available than hardware.
#4
12-07-2011, 12:27 AM
Supposedly its Cummins part # 3925954 or Case international # j925954 but I checked Napa and a couple other places and they couldn't even find either number. I don't remember if I called the Cummins Dealer in town or not about it.
Realistically unless its an issue thats not easy to fix, I'd just leave it in there. Cheaper (I heard the stud was like $20 from Cummins or something) and it probably does do some good or Cummins wouldn't have put it there, its not a performance restriction.
Realistically unless its an issue thats not easy to fix, I'd just leave it in there. Cheaper (I heard the stud was like $20 from Cummins or something) and it probably does do some good or Cummins wouldn't have put it there, its not a performance restriction.
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#9
12-15-2011, 11:34 AM
I had the same deal, they're definitely right handed threads, its just tough to break loose.
