91 W250... Should I buy it?
#1
91 W250... Should I buy it?
Hi guys, I've come across what a guy is saying a '91 W250, non-intercooled Cummins with the Getrag 5-speed. The build date is 9-90. Truck is kind of rough, definitely needs work in some places. odo says 225k, but when I test drove it, the trip meter wasn't working. I was too busy paying attention to other things to look and see if the actual odo was moving. Rear fender arches have rust holes. Cab floor is pitted through in like two spots. starting to rust a little bit above the windshield. Needs a new seat. Needs tires. Needs either a new vacuum pump or brake booster. None of the gauges work, only the volt meter, speedometer, and the fuel gauge work. Dent/body work on the passenger bedside. Needs a new U joint on the front driveshaft. Truck runs great though. The guy said that it has 100 horse injector nozzles, an "agressive" fuel pin, pump turned up, and an HX35, however when I popped the hood, it was the stock HC1. The rest of the truck is suprisingly clean. Plenty of power and just the right amount of smoke Flew down I-90 straight and smooth as could be, pushed right up to 80mph with no problem and still had more. I was impressed with the ride quality, as it is lifted on 35's with STACKED rear springs. He claims it gets 20mpg, I'm skeptical, but I hope it gets close to that. He said bottom-line price is $4800. I'm just worried about it costing me way more time and money than I really can afford to put into it. This truck will have to get me back and forth to school and work everyday. What do you guys think?
#5
#6
The rail above the windshield isn't too bad. I believe it's saveable. The rest of it is minor work. I can get new bed arch panels for $70 per side. New booster is only about $120. The floor, I can just throw a chunk of sheet metal and tack it up and hit it with bedliner or undercoating. If these trucks really run forever like everyone says, I didn't think $4800 was too bad of a deal..
#7
The rail above the windshield isn't too bad. I believe it's saveable. The rest of it is minor work. I can get new bed arch panels for $70 per side. New booster is only about $120. The floor, I can just throw a chunk of sheet metal and tack it up and hit it with bedliner or undercoating. If these trucks really run forever like everyone says, I didn't think $4800 was too bad of a deal..
He wants WAY to much for a truck with that many miles and that many problems. Keep looking.
Seeing as they don't make "100 horse nozzles" and he lied about teh turbo I would walk away, it's obvious he is not being up front and honest with you.
You can buy a nice truck in better shape and put go fast parts on it for the same price.
#8
RSWORDS makes a good point about the "rust you can see". My experience with many similar era vehicles is if you have multiple points of rust ingress visible in different areas, there is a lot more on the horizon very soon. You will most likely see it creeping in all over the place during the next couple years.
#9
Shes wore out... If your worried about spending money to make it reliable even though you just listed off a grand in replacement panals and parts and they arent even on the truck yet...
Sounds like your trying to talk yourself into this truck even though in your first post you basically said you want something reliable dont want to stick moeny in... well your gonna be buying a money pit. Sounds like a $2500 truck tops...
I bought my 95 that was in better shape and everything worked for less then that
Sounds like your trying to talk yourself into this truck even though in your first post you basically said you want something reliable dont want to stick moeny in... well your gonna be buying a money pit. Sounds like a $2500 truck tops...
I bought my 95 that was in better shape and everything worked for less then that