Changine out valve seal and rear main Q?
#11
#12
#13
I gotta change out my rear main and a exhaust valve seal on the number 1 cyl on my cummins. I was just wondering if anyone's got any tips a suggestions for me on how to do it and what to be careful about so i dont mess something up. Also what kind of a spring compressor do i need to get the valve spring off so i can get to the valve seal. Thanks for any help .
I did not read the thread just this post
valve seal but just get #1 TCD then use a spring compressor or a homemade one cut out a piece of cardboard or rag and cover as much as you can under the valve cover the reason behind is when you drop a keeper down the push rod hole you will kick ur self in the *** I would replace #1 intake and exhaust seals since ur there, if you dont already have them I got some
rear main there alot of fun just make sure you use GENUINE Cummins also use no silicone or other sealants clean the crank to like new if you use abrasives be careful
use the provided seal driver and a SMALL ball pein hammer and tap once this side once that side with light hits till the driver bottoms out it should take you at least 3-5 minuts to drive that in go slow if it looks twisted lightly tap it straight there about 40 bucks so get it right the first time
Brice
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BIGREDGOAT (10-17-2011)
#14
its to bad you just got a head gasket from me when the head was off you should have it machined for top hat seals ($80) and then you would have been set
I did not read the thread just this post
valve seal but just get #1 TCD then use a spring compressor or a homemade one cut out a piece of cardboard or rag and cover as much as you can under the valve cover the reason behind is when you drop a keeper down the push rod hole you will kick ur self in the *** I would replace #1 intake and exhaust seals since ur there, if you dont already have them I got some
rear main there alot of fun just make sure you use GENUINE Cummins also use no silicone or other sealants clean the crank to like new if you use abrasives be careful
use the provided seal driver and a SMALL ball pein hammer and tap once this side once that side with light hits till the driver bottoms out it should take you at least 3-5 minuts to drive that in go slow if it looks twisted lightly tap it straight there about 40 bucks so get it right the first time
Brice
I did not read the thread just this post
valve seal but just get #1 TCD then use a spring compressor or a homemade one cut out a piece of cardboard or rag and cover as much as you can under the valve cover the reason behind is when you drop a keeper down the push rod hole you will kick ur self in the *** I would replace #1 intake and exhaust seals since ur there, if you dont already have them I got some
rear main there alot of fun just make sure you use GENUINE Cummins also use no silicone or other sealants clean the crank to like new if you use abrasives be careful
use the provided seal driver and a SMALL ball pein hammer and tap once this side once that side with light hits till the driver bottoms out it should take you at least 3-5 minuts to drive that in go slow if it looks twisted lightly tap it straight there about 40 bucks so get it right the first time
Brice
The following users liked this post:
big bad diesel 416 (10-16-2011)
#16
i did my rear main seal tonight. i think it went fairly well. i hope it never leaks again on me. the old one was hanging out in there for the ride and pretty much flopped out. someone recomended i put some rtv on it where the gasket and oil seal housing meet. you think this is a good idea?
#17
i did my rear main seal tonight. i think it went fairly well. i hope it never leaks again on me. the old one was hanging out in there for the ride and pretty much flopped out. someone recomended i put some rtv on it where the gasket and oil seal housing meet. you think this is a good idea?
aftermarket gasket yes
also did you install the seal with the seal plate bolted in place? if so dont take it off now if not then be dam careful that the seal dose not roll when sliding on the crank and MAKE SURE THE CRANK IS CLEAN
#18
ya its not cummins. its a felpro gasket from napa. i had already got it a long time ago so i didnt feel like getting the one from cummins. i didnt take the seal plate off. i didnt know that i should have. i made sure everything was really clean and dry since thats what the seal called for. it took me a long time to get the seal on and in place. i did alot of light tapping to ensure it didnt go crooked. ill put some rtv on it and call it good.
#19
#20
its to bad you just got a head gasket from me when the head was off you should have it machined for top hat seals ($80) and then you would have been set
I did not read the thread just this post
valve seal but just get #1 TCD then use a spring compressor or a homemade one cut out a piece of cardboard or rag and cover as much as you can under the valve cover the reason behind is when you drop a keeper down the push rod hole you will kick ur self in the *** I would replace #1 intake and exhaust seals since ur there, if you dont already have them I got some
rear main there alot of fun just make sure you use GENUINE Cummins also use no silicone or other sealants clean the crank to like new if you use abrasives be careful
use the provided seal driver and a SMALL ball pein hammer and tap once this side once that side with light hits till the driver bottoms out it should take you at least 3-5 minuts to drive that in go slow if it looks twisted lightly tap it straight there about 40 bucks so get it right the first time
Brice
I did not read the thread just this post
valve seal but just get #1 TCD then use a spring compressor or a homemade one cut out a piece of cardboard or rag and cover as much as you can under the valve cover the reason behind is when you drop a keeper down the push rod hole you will kick ur self in the *** I would replace #1 intake and exhaust seals since ur there, if you dont already have them I got some
rear main there alot of fun just make sure you use GENUINE Cummins also use no silicone or other sealants clean the crank to like new if you use abrasives be careful
use the provided seal driver and a SMALL ball pein hammer and tap once this side once that side with light hits till the driver bottoms out it should take you at least 3-5 minuts to drive that in go slow if it looks twisted lightly tap it straight there about 40 bucks so get it right the first time
Brice
im not happy with the valve seals i got from napa. theyre not right. ill send you a pm about the ones you got.
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