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IF you want to tow a lot, run a 5 speed and deeper gears (4.10s).
The outcome for mileage (Fuel AND Longevity) and keeping the tranny together will be more favorable. If for some reason you don't like the Getrag, go with a FULLY UPGRADED NV4500 or 6 speed. If you do a 6 speed, you can keep the gearing higher, say 3.54s. Mark. |
My only problem with towing with a stick is uneven shifting. i.e. User error. :argh: I haul horses a lot and with livestock the smoother the shift the better. I've heard of horses breaking legs from folks not driving right, and I don't ever want that to happen to me. Especially when that horse cost 6 figures. :scare2: But otherwise, manual tranny's are better for the long haul. :tu: In saying that, auto's have their place too...
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Alright guys thanks for the input.:tu: I've been looking at some other part for the A-518 and prolly just get some up grades for it such as TQ converter, clutches, and shift kit. I'm not looking to put down 500HP but it would be nice to not slip the tranny every time I hardly get on it
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Originally Posted by KD93
(Post 759517)
The other thing to remember is that when an auto is in lockup, it's going to create HUGE amounts of heat, so as Mark Nixon says, towing with it can get fun sometimes. (Which is why everyone says not to tow in OD.)
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Any auto, compared to a manual, creates more heat. Direct drive or not.
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Lock up or not, an auto always creates more heat, it's the nature of the beast.
No stock lock-up clutch will handle the loads of 20,000+ pounds for very long. Not to mention, that the loads on the convertor, while doing so, will make some convertors swell up and crack, which is why any good aftermarket convertor has a feature called an "Anti-Ballooning" plate. I tow with my '91 diesel automatic truck, and I dread the day that thing finally pukes itself, but I also won't hesitate for even a second to swap it to a manual when that time comes. Some things are just more practical and towing just seems more practical with a manual, in most situations. Mark. |
Originally Posted by Mark Nixon
(Post 762627)
Lock up or not, an auto always creates more heat, it's the nature of the beast.
No stock lock-up clutch will handle the loads of 20,000+ pounds for very long. Not to mention, that the loads on the convertor, while doing so, will make some convertors swell up and crack, which is why any good aftermarket convertor has a feature called an "Anti-Ballooning" plate. I tow with my '91 diesel automatic truck, and I dread the day that thing finally pukes itself, but I also won't hesitate for even a second to swap it to a manual when that time comes. Some things are just more practical and towing just seems more practical with a manual, in most situations. Mark. When you want to tow stuff alot and sometimes go fast - Maunal When you want to go fast alot and sometimes tow stuff - Auto :U: |
Originally Posted by KD93
(Post 759517)
Guess it depends on how much you can get the 47RH for. Personally I wouldn't touch a BD TC, I'd be looking only at either Suncoast or Goerend. :tu: A TC from either of these vendors will run you from $600 - $1000, but well worth the money. A lockup convertor is somewhere around $1200 I think, (not 100% on that), plus whatever other parts you may need to rebuild it. 'Cause you know that while you're there you may as well. The other thing to remember is that when an auto is in lockup, it's going to create HUGE amounts of heat, so as Mark Nixon says, towing with it can get fun sometimes. (Which is why everyone says not to tow in OD.)
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- all other things aside, what did the 47RH come in and what parts do you need for a good upgrade. i have a first gen (AH518) and a 205 cast iron t case. not sure the spline count. but i'm gonna do a lift soon, and i'll likely need different drive shaft(s). i'd love a lock up auto tranny, to get it to shift like a gasser, and in lock up OD for the RPMS to be about 1400-1600. if this isnt possible i'd like a NV5600! |
Originally Posted by CUMMINStagetcha19
(Post 804119)
when the TC is locked up you shouldnt be building heat because your not slipping.
The 48RE in my 07 runs about the same temp as the Getrag in my 1st Gen: 150-160F. They both heat up under load. The only time the 48RE heats up is when it is not locked. I towed a toy hauler with about a ton of stuff on it up the side of a mountain last summer locked in 2nd and it only got slightly warmer - 180 - that's nothing. I saw 220 on the Getrag once before I put the fastCoolers on it. I think the 'rag would have made more heat on that pull because the auto has better cooling. |
words to live by :tu:
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