1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

killer dowel pin

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  #51  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jdbigblue12v
anyone know the torque specs on the timing case bolts so i can check them when i tab the KDP this week
Did you get the KDP tabbed? If so, I would like to know how that went for you. Gearing up to probably do mine soon. Thx
 
  #52  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:43 PM
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Who sells a kit for the 89-93 12v? They have a little different case and the flat tab probably wouldn't work. I did pricing on a seal and gasket and the kits are about the same price... So I'm thinking I might just buy the kit.
I took mine all apart it was pretty easy, although mine isn't in a truck right now just getting it ready to put in.
 
  #53  
Old 06-23-2011, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hagerty_justin
Who sells a kit for the 89-93 12v? They have a little different case and the flat tab probably wouldn't work. I did pricing on a seal and gasket and the kits are about the same price... So I'm thinking I might just buy the kit.
I took mine all apart it was pretty easy, although mine isn't in a truck right now just getting it ready to put in.
I wouldn't bother with a kit. A bolt with a tab or washer and some RTV and you're good to go. But Geno's has them, PDR I think has them, BBD might do too.
 

Last edited by KD93; 06-23-2011 at 06:23 PM.
  #54  
Old 06-24-2011, 10:45 AM
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Yes, you can get the correct tab kit direct from TST and Genos. Genos sells the TST kit at the same price as direct from TST at $65.00

I read through through their install info. They show lifting out the entire clutch fan assembly with the pully mount together as one unit. I was thinking that the reverse threaded fan clutch was going to be separated from the pulley but it doesn't

For those that have done this, has anyone found any disadvantage between RTV vs a Cummins timing cover gasket? I know the new engines are assembled with RTV only but I am thinking more from of an assembly perspective or odds of leaking or not getting a good seal. The new engines using RTV only are done with the engine out of the vehicle so it is much easier to get a perfectly done RTV seal on contact. I have never been a hugh fan of RTV due to portions that are always pushed into the engine no matter how sparingly applied. Opinions in this application? Also, have others pulled all 5 cap screws out of the gear case and applied red thread locker to them or just checked torque and tightened if needed? Lastly, I am wanting to know from others that used the TST kit with the seal alignment sleeve how that part went?
 
  #55  
Old 06-24-2011, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sootnsmoke
The new engines using RTV only are done with the engine out of the vehicle so it is much easier to get a perfectly done RTV seal on contact. I have never been a hugh fan of RTV due to portions that are always pushed into the engine no matter how sparingly applied.
Being in or out of the truck has nothing to do with it. The only trick to it is allowing the RTV to cure before finish tightening. Assemble finger tight and let it sit overnight. I've been using RTV on various assemblies this way for years, no problem.

The old saying, "haste makes waste" applies.
 
  #56  
Old 06-24-2011, 02:48 PM
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The dowel pin is used for alighnment, there is 5 bolts that hold the gear housing on to the block, I have heard alot of people say timeing slip, I have checked with the enginers behind the desighn of the pin, there is no information on timing slip if the gear housing does not have the pin installed.

I dont want to take money away from anyone and the little tab is a pretty neat way to fill a need (the old saying see a need, fill a need) I have installed some marine engines where I did not install the pin, they are still running and have had no timing problems.

from 89 to 95 (I think, cant remeber ) they drilled the gearhousing all the way through and there would be issues with the pin falling out, they started making the gearhousing where it was the bore for the pin was tappered and they would also nutch the pin to help it from coming out.

In my opinion you do not need the pin installed because if those 5 bolts slip or even move whil on the block, you are going to more than just a pin problem.
 
  #57  
Old 06-24-2011, 03:50 PM
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i used a piece of 22 gauge steel and made a little tab and drilled it for the bolt right next to the kdp and tightened it down over the kdp and i did it for the price of gaskets and time.
 
  #58  
Old 06-24-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by forgasm
i used a piece of 22 gauge steel and made a little tab and drilled it for the bolt right next to the kdp and tightened it down over the kdp and i did it for the price of gaskets and time.
Did you replace the front seal or just put the cover back on with the old one? Did you remove and thread lock the 5 gear case bolts of just check torque on them? Was there a reason you went with a cover gasket rather than just RTV?
 
  #59  
Old 06-24-2011, 11:16 PM
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I just did my KDP on my 1989 6bt, I used a 40mm bolt and a piece of 1/2 flat bar that I cut a chunk out of because the 89-93s have a different case. I got a new gasket and seal. i got some pictures of how it looks.
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All in all it was pretty simple, just drilled a hole, made a template (cardboard) and cut it out with plasma. Then took my cut off wheel and cut the notch into it, and did some filing to finish it off. Loctite and a lock washer should keep it from moving.... I hope
 
  #60  
Old 06-24-2011, 11:53 PM
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i was wondering if wen i do the tab, can i use some type of adhesive to fill the hole with the pin in there on my 93
 


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