Alternator problem!!!!!!
#1
05-04-2010, 04:41 PM
Alternator problem!!!!!!
Ok,, I am getting really ticked off at my truck, which I havent owned barely 3 weeks or so.
My problem is I am not getting charge to my batteries from the alternator. How do I check the alternator myself so I can eliminate that its that alternator? I have read that the voltage regulator is in the puter on 93 dodges. So cant check that. I want to check the alternator first. I have also heard that a bad CPS can do this too? Make it not charge?
Anyone have this problem in the past or any help?
My problem is I am not getting charge to my batteries from the alternator. How do I check the alternator myself so I can eliminate that its that alternator? I have read that the voltage regulator is in the puter on 93 dodges. So cant check that. I want to check the alternator first. I have also heard that a bad CPS can do this too? Make it not charge?
Anyone have this problem in the past or any help?
#2
05-04-2010, 06:38 PM
Here's what the 1st gen alternator needs to work...
A good ground. (Big black wire going to the engine block.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the negative post of the battery.
A connection to the battery positive. (Big wire going straight to the battery positive.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the positive post of the battery.
An ignition-on positive. (Small blue wire going to the alternator.) This wire should have as much voltage as the positive post of the battery when you turn the key to "run".
A regulator supply. (Small green wire going to alternator next to the blue wire.) This is the wire that comes from the regulator or ECM; the more voltage on this wire, the lower the charging voltage of the alternator. The alternator should full-field if you unplug this wire. Typically it should have 4-7~ish volts.
Check to see what wire isn't giving you what you need. If everything is right, the problem is probably in the alternator.
A good ground. (Big black wire going to the engine block.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the negative post of the battery.
A connection to the battery positive. (Big wire going straight to the battery positive.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the positive post of the battery.
An ignition-on positive. (Small blue wire going to the alternator.) This wire should have as much voltage as the positive post of the battery when you turn the key to "run".
A regulator supply. (Small green wire going to alternator next to the blue wire.) This is the wire that comes from the regulator or ECM; the more voltage on this wire, the lower the charging voltage of the alternator. The alternator should full-field if you unplug this wire. Typically it should have 4-7~ish volts.
Check to see what wire isn't giving you what you need. If everything is right, the problem is probably in the alternator.
The following users liked this post:
Mudbug (05-04-2010)
#3
05-04-2010, 07:27 PM
Refer to the same thing being addressed in a current post. All you have to do is take a little time to do a little reading and you'll have all the knowledge ya need to start at the begging and diagnose with out spending loads of money.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
https://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-ge...nt-charge.html
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
https://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-ge...nt-charge.html
Last edited by pewder; 05-04-2010 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The following users liked this post:
Mudbug (05-04-2010)
#5
05-04-2010, 08:41 PM
Here's what the 1st gen alternator needs to work...
A good ground. (Big black wire going to the engine block.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the negative post of the battery.
A connection to the battery positive. (Big wire going straight to the battery positive.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the positive post of the battery.
An ignition-on positive. (Small blue wire going to the alternator.) This wire should have as much voltage as the positive post of the battery when you turn the key to "run".
A regulator supply. (Small green wire going to alternator next to the blue wire.) This is the wire that comes from the regulator or ECM; the more voltage on this wire, the lower the charging voltage of the alternator. The alternator should full-field if you unplug this wire. Typically it should have 4-7~ish volts.
Check to see what wire isn't giving you what you need. If everything is right, the problem is probably in the alternator.
A good ground. (Big black wire going to the engine block.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the negative post of the battery.
A connection to the battery positive. (Big wire going straight to the battery positive.) There should be no resistance between where this wire comes from the alternator and the positive post of the battery.
An ignition-on positive. (Small blue wire going to the alternator.) This wire should have as much voltage as the positive post of the battery when you turn the key to "run".
A regulator supply. (Small green wire going to alternator next to the blue wire.) This is the wire that comes from the regulator or ECM; the more voltage on this wire, the lower the charging voltage of the alternator. The alternator should full-field if you unplug this wire. Typically it should have 4-7~ish volts.
Check to see what wire isn't giving you what you need. If everything is right, the problem is probably in the alternator.
#6
05-04-2010, 08:50 PM
