When I turn the ignition on, starter relay starts clicking very loudly. Check Engine and Wait to Start lights flashing off and on with clicks.
Checked codes via ignition:
12: battery d/c during last 50 cycles
41: An open or short detected in the alternator field control circuit
55: end

Questions: What is considered the alternator field control circuit? How do I go about finding a short in the circuit? What is considered 'open'? What damage is occuring?

Alternator was rebuilt a couple of months ago after the voltage regulator quit, new external regulator was installed.

Thank you in advance for your advice and knowledge!

 

sounds to me as if yer way blow on voltage and it cant hold the solinoid closed

so does the truck start up then??

if not throw a charge on the batteries

 

I just checked the positive cable through the clamp on the oil rail, no visable damage. Alternator wires/connections seemed ok however the voltage regulator had a blue wire that was slightly melted to the bottom of the alternator. I pulled it loose, just a little melted casing, no metal showing. Turned key on to check: still clicking.

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It starts right up, no hesitation at all.

 

the melted wire must have been a direct short, hope it didnt blow the diodes in the alternator,

when the truck is running what does it show for voltage?

 

After you asked me about the voltage, I walked out and checked it. It was pretty low and gauge was jumping around a good bit, but the engine was cool. I let it run for a couple of minutes then killed it. When I tried to start it again, it was turning over really fast but wouldn't start.
I came back into the house and thought I'd check codes one more time. Codes came back same: 12, 41,55 and voltage looked better. It started right up and was holding about mid-range as usual. The check engine light is staying on. Also, I don't know how hot alternators get in a short time but with the truck only running for a couple of minutes, it sure was hot. Not burning hot, but I wouldn't leave my hand on it for long...Important or normal?
This doesn't happen every day. It'll go days without trouble then I'll kill it somewhere and be stuck due to the fast turnover thing.

 

whn the motor was cool the voltage gauge was jumping around because the grid heater was kicking in and out this draws some major voltage so that is normal, after the motor is warmed up you should see 13.8 volts charging as a normal charge rate, at this time I think you need to replace that melted wire with a new one and then just run the truck and see how she does for ya

 

Thanks to the daylight, the melted wire is green instead of blue. Should I take the regulator off of the alternator to do this?
Normally, I'd jump in there and be on the road already but I want to be sure that I do it right. I live 20 miles out in the country and the word 'stranded' makes my hair stand on end.
I'm getting ready to d/c the battery and give it a closer look...

 

if it is green than it is a ground wire and must have had a direct short to get it that hot to melt the sheath on it, I am seriously thinking that your diods or atleast on of them in the alternator is blown now, you will have to judge for yourself on if the regulator needs pulled for the job here, I wish I was there for you or had a pic to see whats up but the long distance help via puter is the best we can get here I guess, also I am wondering since the regulator was added and also after market that if it was set for the correct voltage, if it was too high this could cause problems, you need to set it at 13.8 max voltage when in a full demand

 

The local alternator guru man installed my regulator, I assume he set it correctly. The first one he put on was an aftermarket and didn't work half a day so he ordered a different one, something American made because he said those were more reliable. I'm going to run out and snap a couple of photos and will have them here in a jiffy.

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Ok, I have photos but not sure how to put them into this box. The truck started right up with good voltage and no jumping, the Wait to Start light is flashing like crazy and relay clicking very loudly but no Check Engine light today. Is something being damaged during the clicking? My personal email address is rho_grigsby@yahoo.com
If you want to shoot me an email, I'll respond with the photos IF you have time to look at them. I don't want to impose, you've been so nice to help me.

 

you have mail

sounds like to me the major clicking is the grid heater relay, need to disconnect for now, been there done that