ok so could i get all the cummins part numbers to replace this seal... i think i have most of them at work, but part numbers would make it much nicer to look up,
oh and RSWORDS another A+++++ write up
SOME ONE MAKE THIS A STICKY !!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's the tool for it. SPX Miller Special Tools | Detail: 8281 - INSTALLER, SEAL

Thanks UB!

David my post was edited, :argh:

Finished gettin mine back together last night and tested it out today haulin hay. I'M JACKED NOW. Now that everything is cleaned up we found the real leak. It's leakin between the gear case and motor block. This means the whole thing has to come apart again and then figure out how to get all the gears off so I can get into there.

fun fun fun dont something like that require the camshaft to be removed:humm:

I'm hopin the gear will come off separate from the cam but I don't know.

On a side note here. It's kinda funny that the 2nd gen 24V trucks use the same seals and gaskets for the front gear case as these early years but they are both different from the later 12V that were built.

It doesn't come off without a press. Reinstalling the gear requires heating it to 250* ~ 300*F and dropping it onto the cam's snout.

Attachment 49693



You might consider re-torquing all the case to block bolts (18ft/lbs) if you haven't already. IIRC, all the bolts are accessible with rolling the gears over where needed and reaching through the webs if not out in the open.

Attachment 49694

:pca1:

I did my KDP last weekend and my "cheap fix" was to stake the hole (booger up the edges of the hole with a punch) so the pin can't drop out. That is easier than making a tab if your pin is indended a bit (as it generally is, if everything is right). Also don't need a special longer bolt.

Napa sells new front seals with a plastic slide and the install guage (a rest for setting the seal depth) for about $35. That will take care of any tool needs. You, of course, can use silicone for the cover gasket, but I decided to replace the gasket as well, adding a bit of cost. The biggest reason I used a gasket was in case I want to get in there to deal with the pump gear again (also timed it while I had it open).

For tools, I used regular hand tools and also air tools (because I have them) but nothing special is required. An engine barring tool (Snap On -- about $60 --http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=56074&group_ID=1294 &store=snapon-store&dir=catalog ) is a worthwhile investment for this sort of work. Sure does make it easy to turn over the engine, especially with doing the timing at the same time as the KDP. Snappy also has the other specialty tools for this engine -- wrenches for the fuel pump, timing tools, etc. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store

CHECK YOUR OTHER COVER BOLTS! I found most of my timing cover bolts only finger tight. I pulled each one (one at a time) and cleaned, then used red loc-tite and re-torqued to factory specs. Note that the cam gear has one window that is a bit bigger than the other two -- you can just get a socket over the hidden bolts if you roll the engine to those holes.

To get easier access, I pulled the upper core support bar and the radiator. I didn't pull the coolers -- they were low enough to not be in the way. The job was relatively easy once the stuff was out of the way. While it was all apart, I took the liberty of doing some engine painting and general cleaning and detailing. I found some "cast iron" colored engine paint at the Zone that was close enough to the factory color to look okay. Painted the front cover, pullys, etc., in some contrasting colors (red, med. gloss black) just for fun. Looks better already.

Also, while I was in there cleaning and poking around, I discovered that the wire for the water in fuel sensor had rubbed through on the pre-filter, which had shorted out at some point in time, a wonder it didn't burn down the entire truck. Pays to check around under there once in a while.

why cant you just glue the dowel pin in?

i dont think glue would hold it. with the vibration of the motor, it would cause the clue to crack. at least thats my thinking any how