1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

1st gen auto

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Old 01-24-2010, 04:23 PM
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Default 1st gen auto

so ive heard that the autos in the 1st gen are weak when you turn the truck up is this just the 1st gen? what typically fails? is it possible to make it stronger? who makes and what parts can make it hold up to power?
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:31 PM
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the torque converter is the weak link. a good TC and a shift kit and theyre pretty good trannys
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:34 PM
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i have a 92 with the A518 just put a transgo shift kit in it last weekend that helped with the shift also the rebuild kits are cheap if you know how to do it the stock torque converter is the major down fall go with a georend thats what i hear is the best i plan on getting one next just waiting on the cash i mean if you have alot of mods and cash you can buy a whole trans from georend
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:48 PM
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who else makes a nice converter?
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:51 PM
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First gen transmission "weak" isn't "break" weak as much as it's "can't load the engine" weak.

Torque converters don't tend to break when you turn up the power, they just don't load down the engine, so the engine doesn't make any power. Putting an aftermarket converter into the transmission will load down the engine, which will make more power, which will make the rest of the transmission more likely to break. It's likely that Dodge put the weak converter in intentionally to preserve the rest of the drivetrain.

You can run a whole gamut of transmission internal problems; broken bands, fried clutches, snapped shafts, stripped gears, other broken things that I have no idea what do.

I keep hearing the Goerend is making first gen transmissions, Suncoast made mine, PATC is a smaller name that is more popular in the muscle car world. A stout transmission built for a Hemi or big block Mopar would work as well; shops that specialize in muscle car transmissions are easier to find local, which means you wouldn't need to play with shipping hassle.

The big decision to make when buying a whole new transmission is whether or not you want lock-up; it's $1-2 thousand extra for about 10% off your quarter mile time, but you're more likely to break shafts and whatnot as well. It's really helpful for towing as well. If you want lock-up, you're looking at doing a conversion to a '94-95 style transmission and DTT, ATS, DTS are more names to look at.

Unless you're towing, I'd suggest a manual valve body with an aftermarket shifter, that way you'll never have to worry about messed up shift points again.
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:48 PM
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Good info Begle... I agree 100%
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 06:01 PM
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A 200, 300, 350 or 400 HP engine is that HP no mater whats behind it a slipping auto or a manual trans. Putting in a aftermarket TQ that is just putting a more efficient fluid coupling behind your engine. Put and engine on an engine dyno and you see 400HP. Put the same engine in the truck and on a chassis dyno with a slipping clutch or a slipping auto you will see a lot less HP to the ground. ken
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:01 PM
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thanks alot begle one of the first times i have read what you had to say and wasnt completely confused and kensmachine needs to go here and introduce himself Diesel Bombers Initiation - Diesel Bombers thanks
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kensmachine
A 200, 300, 350 or 400 HP engine is that HP no mater whats behind it a slipping auto or a manual trans. Putting in a aftermarket TQ that is just putting a more efficient fluid coupling behind your engine. Put and engine on an engine dyno and you see 400HP. Put the same engine in the truck and on a chassis dyno with a slipping clutch or a slipping auto you will see a lot less HP to the ground. ken
A better converter will also load you engine better and faster, getting on top the turbo sooner and create more flywheel HP then a stocker. the stock converters stall too high and the engine is starting to get past peak TQ before the turbo even gets lit.

And even with a great tranny and clutch you will still see less HP at the wheels due to parasitic loss.
 
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kensmachine
A 200, 300, 350 or 400 HP engine is that HP no mater whats behind it a slipping auto or a manual trans. Putting in a aftermarket TQ that is just putting a more efficient fluid coupling behind your engine. Put and engine on an engine dyno and you see 400HP. Put the same engine in the truck and on a chassis dyno with a slipping clutch or a slipping auto you will see a lot less HP to the ground. ken
A less-than-ideal transmission will eat up power due to parasitic loss, but it will also prevent the engine from making maximum power by not loading it down enough. If the converter doesn't stall, then the engine is in neutral for all it knows.

My engine in neutral with the pedal to the floor is not going to be making the same amount of horsepower as it will be on a dyno with the foot to the floor. Hardly any fuel is injected, because hardly any fuel is required to reach governed RPM; the engine builds hardly any boost, it makes hardly any smoke, it makes hardly any power. Even a manual truck with 4.11's can run out of RPM before it has a chance to make full power in lower gears.

In application it's a trivial distinction, but it is a base difference to be aware of between a throttled engine and an RPM-governed Diesel engine.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by RSWORDS
A better converter will also load you engine better and faster, getting on top the turbo sooner and create more flywheel HP then a stocker. the stock converters stall too high and the engine is starting to get past peak TQ before the turbo even gets lit.

And even with a great tranny and clutch you will still see less HP at the wheels due to parasitic loss.
Yes, exactly.
 

Last edited by Begle1; 01-24-2010 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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