Ok. Tomorrow the motor is going to be on the ground.
 

I had been planning on pulling the motor in my down time to do a full inspection of the motor and transmission.:ouch:

Well I'm about to get it on the floor tomorrow, but while pulling off the intercooler boots I come across some krappy news. On the inlet side of the intercooler there is a fine soot from the great and wonderful nevada desert:scare2: introduced the system by the wonerful supposed high performance K&N filter the dick put on.:dang: Anyways, on the outlet side and on the intake horn there is a coating of oil. I checked the turbo and it has a little up and down movement to it too.:argh:

So upon all this inspection I am starting to think that the oil in the intake is not a very good sign to the overall condition of the motor. What do you guys think about the oil in the intake? Think my rings ar shot because of the soot from the intake?:humm:

oil in your intake is moft often caused by a blown turbo, especially if you say there is shaft play

exactly...............prolly lost a turbo some where along the line in years gone past

When I brush away the soot on the inlet side of the intercooler there is no sign of oil though.

side to side movement (axiel) doesnt mean much on a babbet bearing , the oil will take up that when under pressure

In and out movement would be the bad then?

in and out or side to side, either of them are bad, a turbo compressor wheel should be tight in all aspects

yes radial play shows excessive wear

Time to find an hx35 then.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

So do you guys think that soot could have done some damage inside the motor that would cause the oil in the intake?

the soot had to come backwards on maybe a backfire??

the oil came from a shelled out turbo

i dont know if soot is bad or not in an engine. but the oil in the intake is turbo related. as the turbo went bad, it started shooting oil through your intercooler tubes. thats what would have caused the oil in your intake. it isnt very likely for a heavy mechanical failure to cause that

Ok good. Kinda scared the s**t out of me when I saw that in there. But i'm sure any kind of gritty stuff going into the motor is not good for it. I'll just have to make sure to get it all cleaned out somehow before it goes back together.

just make sure and clean it all good when the head is off of it and put all new gaskets and a new turbo on it and you should be good:tu:

Cool. I was thinkin new turbo anyhow. Want it to spool a little faster. Just don't know what exactly to go with.

that all depends on what upgrades you plan on doing

Doing what ever I can to maximize the power and economy in the truck. I don't want to start to hurt the mileage, not going to tow a whole lot and not big loads either, and I do a lot of city driving.

again you gotta go to an extent of your mods, are you going to start doing pump mods and injectors and fuel pin etc etc etc. your just going to do some simple mods an hx35 would be ok, if your going higher than that look into an hx40 or an s300.

Maybe some mild injectors just to smooth it out more than the stock ones. I have an m&h #4 fuel pin, spring, thinking of the afc spacer instead of the bump (would like to keep that grunt) a strait pipe exhaust, cold air intake, throw in a shift kit and new converter, just some things to optimize the motor but not crazy.

an hx35 would probably suit you well. but that depends on your budget, if you can afford 1000 bucks plus for a new turbo get a nice turbo like a built s300 or super hx40. if you want to stay on a budget an hx35 should be fine

Well i have a spring and m&h #4 pin, want to do the afc spacer, upgrade turbo, strait pipe (maybe stacks), injector upgrade but small to get a little more fire and smooth it out, cold air intake, shift kit, conv., just to optimize not crazy power.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Ignore that repeat. Forgot there was a second page. ha ha

Well picked up an HY35 for $200 down in Albuquerque,:rocking: has some extra boots and a blowoff valve that came with it. Don't think a blowoff valve is gonna do me any good but I can always sell it to some ricer guy. :tu: I'm excited how this all runs when I get it back together, going to have to take a drive and visit my dad so I can make him jealous.:moon:

arent the hy35's smaller than an hx35? i believe they only came on manual trucks

Yeah from what I understand the hy35 is a little smaller. Still an upgrade from the h1c.

I think the difference is the HX35 uses 12 cm housing and the Hy35 uses a 9 cm housing. Other than that they are the same. The hx/hy35 have a 56mm inducer, the h1c has a 54mm inducer. It is better than an h1c, but not a whole lot.

HY's came on autos.

A compression check would tell you any real damage to the engine. If yuo want to see in it I would not pull the engine, just the head.

Also a little up and down play in a turbo is OK. My stock turbo on the 06 had a small amount of play in it from the day I got it. Same with teh Silver62 and every other new turbo I've ever seen. Also te longer it sits the more chance to see it you have. With no oil in it to float the bearing/bushings the will be a little slack and by the time it is multiplied to teh end of the shaft it is enough to see. if there is any in and out then THAT is a problem.

Well I pulled the motor to go threw it and replace seals, and then inspect it to see if the miles that I was told are accurate. The head is off as of this evening, didn't really look at the bores yet, going to have a few diesel mech. friends come over and look it over with me. And since it is out I'm going to paint it. :tu:

:humm:So is the hy35 going to make my truck run higher EGT's since it is such a small housing? So if it has to much problems then I could just go find a larger exhaust housing, correct?

One advantage to getting the new turbo is now I can put my H1C on my dad's truck since his is so damn rough the exhaust hanger broke and then broke the exhaust housing on his turbo. :td:

end play min:.001
max: .003


radial clearance min:.012
max: .018

these are things you want to check since you have block out

head deck flatness
main bearing bore diameter (2.2720)
camshaft bore diameter (2.134)
tappet bore diameter (min:.630 max: .632)
crank seal wear
rod and main journals(make sure there is no scoring )
measure the piston skirt diameter ( min: .4.0088 max: .4.0107)
piston pin bore (min: 1.5750 max:1.5758 )
piston pin (min:1.5744 max:1.5749)
rod bearing clearance (min:. 2.7150 max: 2.7170 )
rod journals on crank (min: 2.7150 max: 2.7170 )

this should get you started

ha look at the 6.7L 60% of exhaust is put right back into the intake (via) EGR and they run like shit

AND TO PEWDER i have a ton of info and just rebuilt mine so if you have any questions shoot me a PM or call the 1-888# and i will help ya out there can be some tricky things

Brice

The HY should lower your EGT's, It wastegated and more efficient

well if I take and block the wastegate off or put a boost elbow on it then I will probably run into a little more heat correct?:humm:

bump
:humm:

no, by doing that you will be putting more air into teh engine and that "should" cool it off. I would not block teh WG, I would do a Boost Elbow, then you can tune it and keep it in its map.

Alright, I'll have to look into the elbow then.

contact jkidd on here. he was the only one who could get me one.

OK, talked to my brother today (he went and picked it up for me and has it at his house currently) the wastegate actuator is MIA. Where could I get one of these from and is it going to cost me an arm and a leg?

I have a weldable HE351 flange and adapter the other side can adapt it to an hx40 style clamp.


picture of the HE351 flange adapter--- either weld it to a 4" downpipe or clamp it to an hx40 flange.
Attachment 48553

silicone tube for compressor outlet to intercooler (must clock turbo and make bracket for wastegate.
Attachment 48554

pictures hooked up to a 2nd gen hx40 clamp and hx40 downpipe
Attachment 48555
Attachment 48556

ummm... thanks. But I was looking for a wastegate actuator for an HY35.

i have one for you.

You have one for an HY35? How much you want for it?