1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

Brakes don't seem to be power

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  #1  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:21 PM
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Default Brakes don't seem to be power

I cant get the brakes to feel right. I replaced calipers, mastercylinder, brake booster, i duno. It goes to the floor, my ABS light is on, along with the brakelight(E-brake), it seems like it wants to grab, then I feel a clicking type feeling in the pedal, and then it goes to the floor almost. It stops, but it's not right. Is my ABS sensor deal in the rear on the frame bad? I've bled from right to left, front to back, I hate brakes Any info would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks
Billy D
 
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Old 12-29-2009, 01:43 PM
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Start bleeding at the master cyl get it completly bled no air. Then to the LF caliper no air, then the RF, LR next and then to the RR last. Try that and see what happens. To bleed the air the best will need a buddy to help have them pump up the brakes then crack the lines at the master just crack it and let it go for a sec and then close but dont let the pedal up keep it down untill the line is closed. And make sure the master stays full always!! Then once you got the air out of the master move to the LF caliper same thing pump up the brakes and crack the bleeder and then close it keeping the pedal down and then when the bleeder is closed then you can repeat by pumping the brakes again and cracking the bleeder. Always start like I said Master cyl, LF caliper, RF caliper, LR caliper, And then the RR caliper. Try that and let me know how it goes from there and will try to give you some further help from there but that should help you out and get your brakes going again
 
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:49 PM
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you guys got it backwards. ALWAYS bleed brakes from the farthest point of the master cylinder to the front. start at the passenger rear, than driver rear, than passenger front, than driver front. but as blkjack said your going to need a buddy to help you. if you dont know how to properly bleed brakes you need to find someone help you that does, it isnt a guessing game. air in the lines would explain a soft pedal, but just for kicks and giggles with the truck running pull the vacuum line into the brake booster just to verify that you have vacuum. and keep the truck off while your bleeding the brakes
 
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:52 PM
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also did you bench bleed the master cylinder
 
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:04 AM
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im also having break problems. tried adjusting the rear with no luck. my pedal is real soft almost to the floor then it gets firm with little breaking ability. if i pump it once then my brakes are solid. on the dirt roads my front tires will lock up but the rear arnt doin nothin. when i pump em front and rear will lock up.
 
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TTipsword
im also having break problems. tried adjusting the rear with no luck. my pedal is real soft almost to the floor then it gets firm with little breaking ability. if i pump it once then my brakes are solid. on the dirt roads my front tires will lock up but the rear arnt doin nothin. when i pump em front and rear will lock up.
sounds to me like there are several possibilities.

your master cylinder could be going bad, but not as likely
your proportioning valve on your frame that sends your rear braking could either be sucking air, or going out internally.
or you could have a bad wheel cylinder in the rear.

im not 100% sure on how the rear abs systems on these work but there are some components i believe that could be causing problems in the rear abs system.

but then again with a rear abs system if your brakes will lock up in the front but not in the rear, your rear abs could be working properly and your fronts are only locking up because the rear are acting with the abs as theyre supposed to. but then if you pump them up they lock up too so it doesnt make sense.

generally when you pump them and they start working after pumping, it generally leads to air getting in somewhere. so try bleeding them and see if you have air in the rear or not. if there is try bleeding them, if not let me know and ill try and help you more
 
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2010, 10:21 AM
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I got'em fixed. Brakes are great, new master cylinder, powerbooster, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes. My rear master cylinder deal on the frame was just crusted up. Took it off, cleaned it up, and it seems to be working great. However my ABS light, and brake light remain on. How do I reset the ABS light? Can I just unhook the battery? Thanks everyone for all your help, your all awsome.

Thanks again.
Billy D
 
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:34 AM
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Unhooking the battery wont clear the codes in the ABS system you will most likely have to have a scanner to clear the codes. You can try unhooking the batts to see if it will but Im pretty sure that it will not work. Have to get a scanner to clear them.
 
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