jake break
#1
jake break
well as some of you know i did a head gasket on the ole 1990 d250 5 speed
due to a blown head gasket and all the oil leaks and trany issues i pulled the motor out ....
so what i did...
bought a head kit from cummins with a 20 over head gasket
upgraded to a 2nd gen head due to cracks in mine
stock I/C injectors
stock valve train from that 2nd gen head
(question dose the 2nd gen head come with big honeycomb exaust springs?)
if not i got those as well
rolled out the main and rod bearings looked great for 500,000
they mic-ed out so i put them back in
had trany rebuilt
clutch was good stuffed it back in
killed KDP
had pump shop look at pump and turn it up to 135cc (stock is 60cc)
installed fule psi gauge (electric)
installed Cyl head tmp gauge (it was free)
replaced main seals
arp studs
and last but not least polished the valve covers
now after all this when i turn the key to start it wont turn over is there something typical that goes wrong here? i did gut out the grid heater stuff in the fender
and at the exaust pipe i get a Jake break noise (pop pop pop) and it gets faster with rpm but its smooth i adj the valves to 10 and 20 ran it got it up to temp with valve covers off re-torqued the head and re did the valves to 10 and 20 is this due to that the freshly ground valves haven't fully seated and iam getting blow by? running it with the covers off nothing looks bent or out of place it all looks to move equally some of the lifters rotate faster than others but that's about it whats wrong?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
well found out that i may have a valve not seating so off to jerk injectors out and fill it with air oh boy
due to a blown head gasket and all the oil leaks and trany issues i pulled the motor out ....
so what i did...
bought a head kit from cummins with a 20 over head gasket
upgraded to a 2nd gen head due to cracks in mine
stock I/C injectors
stock valve train from that 2nd gen head
(question dose the 2nd gen head come with big honeycomb exaust springs?)
if not i got those as well
rolled out the main and rod bearings looked great for 500,000
they mic-ed out so i put them back in
had trany rebuilt
clutch was good stuffed it back in
killed KDP
had pump shop look at pump and turn it up to 135cc (stock is 60cc)
installed fule psi gauge (electric)
installed Cyl head tmp gauge (it was free)
replaced main seals
arp studs
and last but not least polished the valve covers
now after all this when i turn the key to start it wont turn over is there something typical that goes wrong here? i did gut out the grid heater stuff in the fender
and at the exaust pipe i get a Jake break noise (pop pop pop) and it gets faster with rpm but its smooth i adj the valves to 10 and 20 ran it got it up to temp with valve covers off re-torqued the head and re did the valves to 10 and 20 is this due to that the freshly ground valves haven't fully seated and iam getting blow by? running it with the covers off nothing looks bent or out of place it all looks to move equally some of the lifters rotate faster than others but that's about it whats wrong?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
well found out that i may have a valve not seating so off to jerk injectors out and fill it with air oh boy
Last edited by big bad diesel 416; 10-19-2009 at 05:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#3
The push rods will sit on the edge of the lifters sometimes, They look like they are down all the way but they are not. The best way to tell is after you seat teh rod in teh lifter pull up on it, it should have a sucking feel to it if its seated in the lifter right. I would pull them all out and make sure you didn't bend one.
#6
#8
The push rods will sit on the edge of the lifters sometimes, They look like they are down all the way but they are not. The best way to tell is after you seat teh rod in teh lifter pull up on it, it should have a sucking feel to it if its seated in the lifter right. I would pull them all out and make sure you didn't bend one.
Have you doen a compression check? How about a cyl leak down test?
#10
is this the head that your machine shop put those "high performance valves" in it? if they grind the valves they have to grind the seats to match. if they didnt do this then it'd sound like a pop... although a leak down test should let you know right away. another thing is a sticking valve? lash way out of adjustment can cause the same sound... rebuilt an old john deer once; there was like a lash cap onto pf the valve. it wound up shattering and causing a "popping" noise on the intake side. i know the cummins doesnt use this but i'm just trying to relate lash problems. although the rod hung up on one of the lifters sounds pretty plausible too bud; a bend rod more likely. take em' out and roll them across a flat surface usually if one bends it's enough to notice