Opinion time
#1
Opinion time
I recently installed a 91 non IC cummins into my wheelin truck.
why?, because its unique, different and i picked it up for $800 w/ 80k on it.
Starting with the base rig
1993 Ford F-250, 15" of lift with 44's. Dana 60's with stock gears.
Completely stock 6bt with intentions of putting a 4500 behind it and a divorced 205.
The engine is in the truck and i have not located a trans yet.
Anyway, per my application i am looking for opinions on setting the engine up.
My intentions:
1.Bigger injectors, suggest a brand? possibly a size.
2.turbo, i plan on making this an intercooled engine. What turbo do you think?
3.Pump mods, fuel pin, gov spring, what do you think
4.Water injection? or is this too far, i wanna keep egt's down when horsing it in the mud. can you recommend a kit of should i put one together.
5. do i need head studs and o-rings?what will the stocker handle
6.P-pump it?is it worth it? what kind of power can i make on the rotary?
im sure you guys go through this all the time but im looking for application specific, quick spool up, and good power to keep the 44's turning and keep the engine from melting down
i don't know what the practical and reliable limits of these engines are so any input would be appreciated.
why?, because its unique, different and i picked it up for $800 w/ 80k on it.
Starting with the base rig
1993 Ford F-250, 15" of lift with 44's. Dana 60's with stock gears.
Completely stock 6bt with intentions of putting a 4500 behind it and a divorced 205.
The engine is in the truck and i have not located a trans yet.
Anyway, per my application i am looking for opinions on setting the engine up.
My intentions:
1.Bigger injectors, suggest a brand? possibly a size.
2.turbo, i plan on making this an intercooled engine. What turbo do you think?
3.Pump mods, fuel pin, gov spring, what do you think
4.Water injection? or is this too far, i wanna keep egt's down when horsing it in the mud. can you recommend a kit of should i put one together.
5. do i need head studs and o-rings?what will the stocker handle
6.P-pump it?is it worth it? what kind of power can i make on the rotary?
im sure you guys go through this all the time but im looking for application specific, quick spool up, and good power to keep the 44's turning and keep the engine from melting down
i don't know what the practical and reliable limits of these engines are so any input would be appreciated.
#2
1.Bigger injectors, suggest a brand? possibly a size.
2.turbo, i plan on making this an intercooled engine. What turbo do you think?
3.Pump mods, fuel pin, gov spring, what do you think
4.Water injection? or is this too far, i wanna keep egt's down when horsing it in the mud. can you recommend a kit of should i put one together.
5. do i need head studs and o-rings?what will the stocker handle
6.P-pump it?is it worth it? what kind of power can i make on the rotary?
hope this helps
#3
I recently installed a 91 non IC cummins into my wheelin truck.
why?, because its unique, different and i picked it up for $800 w/ 80k on it.
Starting with the base rig
1993 Ford F-250, 15" of lift with 44's. Dana 60's with stock gears.
Completely stock 6bt with intentions of putting a 4500 behind it and a divorced 205.
The engine is in the truck and i have not located a trans yet.
Anyway, per my application i am looking for opinions on setting the engine up.
My intentions:
1.Bigger injectors, suggest a brand? possibly a size. - All kinda depends, your stockers will give some good power, I feel 400hp can be reached in a really well tuned truck. Other then that some 435's can make a very good running set-up
2.turbo, i plan on making this an intercooled engine. What turbo do you think? - Depending on you power goals, a GDS 60mm upgrade and a 14cm housing is a good start for a mild build, If you want some thing with some umph... Get a S300, The HX40's have weak shafts and dont like to be barked, being an off-road rig I'm sure you will be on and off the throttle pretty quickly. I would stick with something quick spooling for off road.
3.Pump mods, fuel pin, gov spring, what do you think - 3200 sping, DennyT Stage II, Remove high idle screw, a turn or two on the full power screw.
4.Water injection? or is this too far, i wanna keep egt's down when horsing it in the mud. can you recommend a kit of should i put one together. - I do not believe in putting water into a running engine. ALOT of people do though. This one is on you.
5. do i need head studs and o-rings?what will the stocker handle - I got a very abusive 57psi out of mine, lasted a couple months.
6.P-pump it?is it worth it? what kind of power can i make on the rotary? - You can make more then you need with teh VE.
im sure you guys go through this all the time but im looking for application specific, quick spool up, and good power to keep the 44's turning and keep the engine from melting down
i don't know what the practical and reliable limits of these engines are so any input would be appreciated.
why?, because its unique, different and i picked it up for $800 w/ 80k on it.
Starting with the base rig
1993 Ford F-250, 15" of lift with 44's. Dana 60's with stock gears.
Completely stock 6bt with intentions of putting a 4500 behind it and a divorced 205.
The engine is in the truck and i have not located a trans yet.
Anyway, per my application i am looking for opinions on setting the engine up.
My intentions:
1.Bigger injectors, suggest a brand? possibly a size. - All kinda depends, your stockers will give some good power, I feel 400hp can be reached in a really well tuned truck. Other then that some 435's can make a very good running set-up
2.turbo, i plan on making this an intercooled engine. What turbo do you think? - Depending on you power goals, a GDS 60mm upgrade and a 14cm housing is a good start for a mild build, If you want some thing with some umph... Get a S300, The HX40's have weak shafts and dont like to be barked, being an off-road rig I'm sure you will be on and off the throttle pretty quickly. I would stick with something quick spooling for off road.
3.Pump mods, fuel pin, gov spring, what do you think - 3200 sping, DennyT Stage II, Remove high idle screw, a turn or two on the full power screw.
4.Water injection? or is this too far, i wanna keep egt's down when horsing it in the mud. can you recommend a kit of should i put one together. - I do not believe in putting water into a running engine. ALOT of people do though. This one is on you.
5. do i need head studs and o-rings?what will the stocker handle - I got a very abusive 57psi out of mine, lasted a couple months.
6.P-pump it?is it worth it? what kind of power can i make on the rotary? - You can make more then you need with teh VE.
im sure you guys go through this all the time but im looking for application specific, quick spool up, and good power to keep the 44's turning and keep the engine from melting down
i don't know what the practical and reliable limits of these engines are so any input would be appreciated.
#4
#5
Propane is for BBQ's
Higher modded trucks don't gain nearly as much. When using propane you have to worry about detonation and increased timing due to a fuel being drawn into the engine vs injected. This plays HELL on your headgasket. Also sucks for towing it will raise you EGT's to a point higher then just fuel would at teh same power level. Also I jhave heard of more then a couple regulators going south... BOOM! And teh fuel gains you see are not worth teh price of propane you put into the engine.
Bottom line is propane is VERY hard on all engine parts. And does not make enough power to be worth the added cost and abuse. How many top performers you seen running propane... none...
Higher modded trucks don't gain nearly as much. When using propane you have to worry about detonation and increased timing due to a fuel being drawn into the engine vs injected. This plays HELL on your headgasket. Also sucks for towing it will raise you EGT's to a point higher then just fuel would at teh same power level. Also I jhave heard of more then a couple regulators going south... BOOM! And teh fuel gains you see are not worth teh price of propane you put into the engine.
Bottom line is propane is VERY hard on all engine parts. And does not make enough power to be worth the added cost and abuse. How many top performers you seen running propane... none...
Last edited by RSWORDS; 05-27-2009 at 11:36 AM.
#6
if the engine is timed correctly with the injection of the propane, and the injection pump is timed with the engine, then i think it is worth it.
yes it is a pain in the a$$ to get everything correct, but once you do, well I'm impressed with it.
as soon as i can get a dyno up, I will show engine temp, egt, intake temp, HP, torque, and boost, with and without the propane.
my buddy has a engine stand dyno, i think we can have readings in or around a month's time.
yes it is a pain in the a$$ to get everything correct, but once you do, well I'm impressed with it.
as soon as i can get a dyno up, I will show engine temp, egt, intake temp, HP, torque, and boost, with and without the propane.
my buddy has a engine stand dyno, i think we can have readings in or around a month's time.
#8
Pre intercooler your compressed air will not be above 500 degrees. Propane does not ignite until 1400 degrees. Your propane will then not preignite in the cylinder of the engine until AFTER the diesel is introduced by the injector. Yes propane raises cylinder pressure - so does more fuel and that is what propane is - more fuel. It does cause turbulance in the cylinder - very good thing - and helps to burn the diesel more efficiently. My propane kit raised my egt's only 40 degrees and that is wide open running the quarter mile. My performance box will handle that much temperature change easily.
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