1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

Help, i need opinions here...

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2009, 04:23 PM
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Default Help, i need opinions here...

Ok, i'm building my truck alongside rebuilding a already running 12v VE pump Cummins...

My truck will be a RWD Dually "just for fun" truck...

Might take it a spin at the local 1/4mile track, and take it to drift events

So, i've been offered a variety of deals on turbos and such, and i want your ups and downs on these...

I've decided i want to get fire rings and ring my head and/or block, alongside with running ARP studs, that is priority one !

Have people been exchanging the pistons for something "more race" ? or are the stock just as good, bear in mind... my Cummins has only got 90.000km on it !

I've been offered a S300 62/65/12 turbo @ $980, and also the HX35/40 hybrid @ $825..

Same induvidual that wants to offer the S300 62/65/12 made me a deal about including a HX40 flange @ $50, HX40 Clamp @ $30 and 40+ HP injectors @ $290..

I'm really thinking about jumping on the S300 with the whole package, as this seems to be the best deal, but i wanted your opinions on this as well.

I'm shooting for the 350-400hp range... but i don't want them EGT's skyrocketing, nor would HUGE amounts of lag come handy while drifting...

 
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:55 PM
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Pistons are the most critical change in any performance-oriented engine rebuild, not necessary for 400 HP though. Low compression pistons help big time.

Is this going to be a VE truck?

If it is, get headwork done to the head when it's off getting worked on, and make sure the block deck is flat as well, or studs and O-rings aren't going to help that much. With a single turbo, studs and O-rings will make it plenty reliable and allow a lot of methanol/ propane/ nitrous.

"40 HP" injectors sound small, and you're going to need first gen injectors.
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Begle1
Pistons are the most critical change in any performance-oriented engine rebuild, not necessary for 400 HP though. Low compression pistons help big time.

Is this going to be a VE truck?

If it is, get headwork done to the head when it's off getting worked on, and make sure the block deck is flat as well, or studs and O-rings aren't going to help that much. With a single turbo, studs and O-rings will make it plenty reliable and allow a lot of methanol/ propane/ nitrous.

"40 HP" injectors sound small, and you're going to need first gen injectors.
I will probably start up with the VE but later on convert to P7100

I plan on having both BLOCK and HEAD planed and corrected so both will be flat to a nano..

i'm not planning on using propane / methanol nor nitrous, as i will strictly be running DIESEL and AIR, and hopefully loads of it

Is there any difference between the first gen injectors and second gen ?

I probably should have noted that i have a FMIC wich i had custom built for my Duramax and took off it prior to getting rid of it and will be using on this truck, might have to get the flanges on it rearranged..

The motor i have is a stock non-intercooled..

The non-intercooled has bigger injectors, but they're hardly enough for 400hp i beleive...

Everyone who has knowledge on the subject give me feedback on this
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:38 PM
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1st Gen injectors have a different spray angle than 2nd gen injectors, and the bodies are different, so you can't put 2nd gen injectors in a 1st gen truck. You can however, put 2nd gen nozzles on a 1st gen body.

The 4X.014's in the Non I/C engine, are more than enough for 400rwhp on fuel only.
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:47 PM
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Injectors have the same threads on them, but they have different pop pressures, the tips are different because they spray into different pistons, and the threads where the lines thread onto them are different.

The non-intercooled heads are real oddballs; when they intercooled (91.5), they went to 7mm injector bores. They did that to alleviate head cracking issues; almost every 12 valve head cracks between the valves and injectors bores, but they rarely crack far enough to be a problem, but the 9mm's are still more likely to be a problem than 7mm's. So you might want to go to a 7mm head. Supposedly the second gen castings flow a tad bit better, although not after any porting. Going to a newer head would allieviate the need for the injector adapters that are required to install 7mm injectors into your 9mm head.

400 HP is almost trivial on a P-pump, on a VE it requires a lot more effort.
 

Last edited by Begle1; 05-12-2009 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:07 PM
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So, what do i need for this....

It's btw hooked up with a 5spd Getrag, does that need any modding other than the clutch upgrade/replacement?

I'll get off with running the 360 in it first... I want to build myself a SUPER Cummins at the lowest expense however...

Where did you guys mount your gauges?

Anyone willing to share pics of their cabins?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Reading about "Project Rust-Bucket" on the diesel magazine website says there aquiring about the whp i'm shooting for give/take
 

Last edited by angelic0-; 05-12-2009 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:18 PM
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Stay with the VE. Get custom 6x.016 injectors. Jump on that S300. Head porting. Piston or hefty-electronic lift pump. High-flow fuel and air filters. Bigger crossover tube. Intercooling. That should work, might need a cam to put you over the edge.

Nitrous could give you an extra 100 HP.

The G360 should be good as long as it has a bigger clutch. Overfill it by one quart.
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:37 PM
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I would go with o-rings and studs instead of fire rings, Fire rings are not really a daily driver kinda thing. Jump on the S300, Get you a set of 6x16's, Head work, Clutch, 3200 Spring, Spool for the rear and go have fun
 
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RSWORDS
I would go with o-rings and studs instead of fire rings, Fire rings are not really a daily driver kinda thing. Jump on the S300, Get you a set of 6x16's, Head work, Clutch, 3200 Spring, Spool for the rear and go have fun
I thought the fire rings are o-rings, so i'll be going with that then sorry :')

Spool is a 100% lock ? right ?

I think the one i have already is a 50% lock... rather than 25%... shouldn't that be enough ?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by angelic0-
I thought the fire rings are o-rings, so i'll be going with that then sorry :')

Spool is a 100% lock ? right ?

I think the one i have already is a 50% lock... rather than 25%... shouldn't that be enough ?

What is wrong with running fire-rings, what makes them so D/D unfriendly !
 

Last edited by angelic0-; 05-12-2009 at 08:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #10  
Old 05-12-2009, 08:37 PM
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I don't know what kind of rear end you'd want for drifting. A spool is a constant lock-up, the same as welding the spiders.

When people talk "firerings" they are almost always talking about a specially-modified headgasket from Haisley Machine that has bigger firerings than stock. I don't think anybody else really markets them to the public, I could be wrong.

"O-rings" are the mild steel rings cut into the head or block, around the stock firerings, and are crushed against the headgasket when the head is torqued down.

Firerings need to be done right, or else they don't clamp as tight and eat away the surface they're mounted against after a few ten thousand miles. To get the best seal with them you need to machine the head and the block. If done right they can hold a bit more boost than O-rings alone, and won't cause excessive wear.

But, O-rings will support much more than you are planning on putting to the engine, and don't require the special headgasket, and don't have longevity issues. You might want to consider having them cut into the block after you get it decked; that way you don't need to have them put into the head if you ever screw up the head.
 


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