I have a 93 Dodge D350 CTD. I am in love with the Cummins engine, not fond of the Duramax or Powerstroke. I am looking to get about 450 hp out of my truck got a single 5" stack with a rain flap on it. Turned the pump up, figure I am at 230+ or - 10 hp. I have been working on cars and trucks for about 12 years was a mechanic in the Air Force for 6 years after that I was a mechanic on a fleet of rock hauling tractor trailers. I am new to this forum haven't found a forum i like yet hope this one is better than the rest. About my truck I know I need gauges. I would like to put a 14 cm hotside on the turbo a larger intercooler bigger injectors and a 6 speed tranny. My getrag makes way to much noise and I like to go fast. Any other ideas on what I should do to the truck yo reash my goal? One more thing my brakes really suck put a new master cylinder and booster on bled the snot out of the brakes shoes and pads are good no leaking wheel cylinders no other known problems. Do these trucks just have a soft pedal. The only thing I haven't checked or replaced is the vaccum pump. If you have priced one you know why I haven't replaced it and am not really sure how to check it. A vaccum gauge I suppose would work. Well that is it for now. If you have any questions for me I will do my best to answer them if I don't know the answer I will try to find it. Thanks in advance.

 

450 HP is hard to get to; there's less than a dozen trucks in the country with that. It is attainable though, and nothing too in-depth needs to be done, it's just a lot of little things that add up.

First question that comes up: fuel only? Nitrous? Water? Methanol? Any drugs will make it more possible; 450 is the edge of the envelope on fuel only.

Start with 5/8" fuel line from the tank, through a Aeromotive A1000 and boost-referenced regulator, then to the injection pump. Fuel supply pressure is very important to us.

Big injectors will be needed. 435's at a minimum, probably some custom units in the 6x.016-6x.018 range. While you're at it it'd be a good idea to get a much-better-than-stock intake horn made up with some custom, and bigger, injector lines.

Drop the stock turbocharger entirely. You're looking at twins or a big single.

For the engine, get a cam and a ported head. While you have the head off it'd be wise to O-ring it and reinstall with studs; if you have twins, they're necessary.

A big intercooler would be a good idea. So would water injection.

Things like gauges, intake and exhaust are a given.

If you are willing to use nitrous, you can save money on a turbo and perhaps a cam. If you are willing to use methanol, you can run smaller injectors.

Valvetrain modifications are going to depend on projected RPM; valve springs are a minimum.

 

For you goal look at...

1. an electric lift pump, bypass the factory one on the block. Set it up with a boost referenced regulator. large fuel line from the pick up to the pump

2. Injectors. 6x.016 seems to be the ticket with a single charger. 6x.018's seem to lose power according to all teh "big" boys

3. Turbo. HX40 to go cheap or for some more bling bust out the S300. These should support a HOT 450.

4. DennyT Stage II Fuel Pin. or custom grind... Or if you dont mind the constant smoke remove/grind your AFC.

5. Maxed pump.

6. Get into the head.. at LEAST torque it down to 125... ideally springs, if your gonna spin it above 3500

7. 366 spring to get you some RPM's and to help the overall fueling.

This should get you close to if not at a HOT 450 HP. If you tow with teh truck you can hook up a valet switch to cut the power when towing to keep the engine cool. Remember... Most people find it difficult to hit 400 in a VE truck. 450 is really doing something and VERY respectable. It can be done but it's not as easy as everyone thinks.

 

what they said...
bigger intercooler, tubing, and intake elbow are a definite must. maby a late 7.3 stoker cooler or some aftermarket. the stock stuff dont even let a stock engine breath properly. the hx40 is an aweome turbo but is even a little shy. dont try to take it over 45 psi. a pro52 may be the ticket. the shaft is bigger and can handle a lot more abuse/psi. ive had common rail guys say u cant spin one on a first gen but if u got enough flow in the head(cam, port job) there is no reason u cant spin it.

ive been plagued with poor braking as well. stick a vacum gauge on ur pump but id be surprised if there is anything wrong with it. not all new master cylinders r good, ive gotten bad ones, and more than once in a row also. but i would suspect ur real problems r the friction surfaces them selves. i hand worked my drums and shoes and now the brakes r awesome. if the shoes/pads were installed onto the old drums/rotors they just arent gonna work efficiently. if u dont wanna buy al new stuff get out ur die ginder and 3" sanding discs and go to work. u have to cut the really hard layer on the steel and knock the glaze on the shoes.

 

I had the same problem with my brakes. I replaced my master cylinder, booster, and vacuum pumps, the problem was the brake booster. I replaced two more times and got a good one, solved the problem and my brakes never felt better.