What Gauges Do I Need?
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#4
Very Easy to install... For a Price put a post up in this section.
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#5
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Cape Girardeau MO, and KY
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Pyrometer, fuel pressure, and tranny temp (auto only) are the basics, IMO. Tach and boost are optional, unless you install a 366 governor spring, and keep stock valve springs.
THe guages are easy to install. Drill and tap the manifold for the pyro probe. There is already a 18NPT plug in the side of the intake just behind the AFC hose for your boost gauge.
Fuel pressure needs a new banjo bolt AFTER the fuel filter. Genos Garage sells tapped banjo bolts that will work. Or, if you have the tools, you can drill and tap it on a bench vise.
Not sure on the tranny temp- never had one long enough to warrant installing one- I like my Getrags.
My pryometer and boost gauge, with a pillar pod, cost me $230 about 5 years ago. I dont thing $300 for a fuel pressure, pyro, and boost is too far out of line.
DP
THe guages are easy to install. Drill and tap the manifold for the pyro probe. There is already a 18NPT plug in the side of the intake just behind the AFC hose for your boost gauge.
Fuel pressure needs a new banjo bolt AFTER the fuel filter. Genos Garage sells tapped banjo bolts that will work. Or, if you have the tools, you can drill and tap it on a bench vise.
Not sure on the tranny temp- never had one long enough to warrant installing one- I like my Getrags.
My pryometer and boost gauge, with a pillar pod, cost me $230 about 5 years ago. I dont thing $300 for a fuel pressure, pyro, and boost is too far out of line.
DP
#6
I wouldn't call a tranny temp gauge mandatory for autos; maybe if you're towing.
I can hardly stand to drive anything without a tach.
The only gauge that you drive by is the pyrometer; that tells you how much power you can give the truck without melting stuff. On some trucks, like my truck without water, 5 MPH difference at high speeds or up a hill can translate to 200-300 degrees of exhaust gas temperature. So you need the pyro to make sure you're not melting stuff by going 85 MPH up the slight incline instead of 80 MPH.
Fuel pressure and boost pressure gauges are more diagnostic and tuning tools than things to drive by. But they're both equally and very useful. On a first gen, the best place to mount a pressure gauge is actually on the injection pump, where you need a range of up to 500 PSI. But your standard 0-30 PSI gauge right after the lift pump is perfectly useful.
If you buy actual automotive gauges, you're looking at maybe $150 for the pyro and $50 for each of your pressure gauges. But it's amazing how much cheaper you can find hydrualic pressure or water pressure gauges from industrial-supply sources or eBay.
You need to drill and tap the manifold to install the pyro; the boost gauge is a screw in. Fuel pressure gauge requires you to thread something into the bleeder screw or the fuel shut-off solenoid port.
I can hardly stand to drive anything without a tach.
The only gauge that you drive by is the pyrometer; that tells you how much power you can give the truck without melting stuff. On some trucks, like my truck without water, 5 MPH difference at high speeds or up a hill can translate to 200-300 degrees of exhaust gas temperature. So you need the pyro to make sure you're not melting stuff by going 85 MPH up the slight incline instead of 80 MPH.
Fuel pressure and boost pressure gauges are more diagnostic and tuning tools than things to drive by. But they're both equally and very useful. On a first gen, the best place to mount a pressure gauge is actually on the injection pump, where you need a range of up to 500 PSI. But your standard 0-30 PSI gauge right after the lift pump is perfectly useful.
If you buy actual automotive gauges, you're looking at maybe $150 for the pyro and $50 for each of your pressure gauges. But it's amazing how much cheaper you can find hydrualic pressure or water pressure gauges from industrial-supply sources or eBay.
You need to drill and tap the manifold to install the pyro; the boost gauge is a screw in. Fuel pressure gauge requires you to thread something into the bleeder screw or the fuel shut-off solenoid port.
#7
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