Like in zero weather, when you are having trouble starting a diesel, always press the throttle pedal right to the floor WOT (wide open throttle) until you hear it doing more then just spinning with the starter.
Just a basic question. When you "bleed the injectors", you would have all the 3/4" wrench sized nuts at each injector loosened about a turn. As you crank the engine to get ALL the air out, you will see each injector (fitting) squirt a decent amount of fuel as it goes through the firing order. It makes a mess, but if you have ANY air in the fuel system there will be a lot of problems up to not being able to start.
Now if I had all the injectors bleed thoroughly, nuts tighten back up, I might disconnect the electric grid heater and as someone was cranking the engine over, squirt a SMALL amount of either into the intake. AGAIN, ELECT GRID HEATER DISCONNECTED (otherwise it could cause the either to explode inside the intake) and as the engine is turning over with the starter. This way the either doesn't go all into one cylinder and cause problems. As you do this, it should start on the either and will stop running when you stop the either or will then run on the fuel. If nothing at all happens, no knocking noise or anything, use a little bit more either until, as it is cranking, something starts to happen. If it stops running when the either stops, the fuel isn't getting into the cylinders in a usable manner or at the correct time.

DDP's are great sticks, but the larger ones can cause white smoke on an IC first gen as they are the wrong spray angle for an IC bowl.

Just curious why you thought you need +100 DDPs...what mods/air do you have to warrant these sticks?