$10 Front Pump Puller
#21
03-01-2014, 08:50 PM
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
#22
03-01-2014, 09:00 PM
Ok, this is why it should be done correctly and you should never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the front pump assembly from the transmission.
1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
#23
03-01-2014, 09:07 PM
I build engines and transmission not the whole car knuckle head. The only thing you need on testing shift sol. and temp. switches is a multi meter.on the newer trans. other than that the mech. function is relatively the same.. newer transmissions norm. run looser clutch pack tolerances than the older ones. your correct I don't know nothing on the modern car computer systems and don't want to know.. hell I cant post pics. on my computer!! LOL I would bet cat man would just throw the new thrust washers in the trans and not check endplay on the front or rear shafts.. common mistake made everyday. but yet again he prob. wont change them because he will have to buy another 10 tool...
#24
03-01-2014, 09:09 PM
I build engines and transmission not the whole car knuckle head. The only thing you need on testing shift sol. and temp. switches is a multi meter.on the newer trans. other than that the mech. function is relatively the same.. newer transmissions norm. run looser clutch pack tolerances than the older ones. your correct I don't know nothing on the modern car computer systems and don't want to know.. hell I cant post pics. on my computer!! LOL I would bet cat man would just throw the new thrust washers in the trans and not check endplay on the front or rear shafts.. common mistake made everyday. but yet again he prob. wont change them because he will have to buy another 10 tool...
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
#25
03-01-2014, 09:12 PM
Ok, this is why it should be done correctly and you should never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the front pump assembly from the transmission.
1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
1: This is the front of the pump as you'd see it while mounted in the transmission (bellhousing side). Notice that only two of the holes are threaded, the one at 9 o'clock and the one at 3 o'clock. This is specifically so the front pump could be pulled with a slide hammer from the outside evenly.
2: This is the pump assembly as it's mounted to the clutch retainers, or drums, inside the transmission. As it sits in the picture, the bellhousing would be at 12 o'clock and the tail shaft pointing 6 o'clock. As you can see, if the front band (not shown, clamps onto the front drum's nice, big machined surface) is tightened, it's retained in the transmission while the pump is removed. The pump housing, stator (not shown; it's mounted to the back of the pump housing), stator support and pump seal all come out together as one assembly. The drums and input shaft are left behind. It's virtually impossible to damage any bearings or the one thrust washer you'll encounter at this point.
3: This is the fiber thrust washer in question (the rest of the thrust washers are still inside the transmission, well out of harm's way, at this point). It must spec between .061" and .063" for the correct transmission internal clearance.
4: this is why you never use a pry bar or screwdriver to remove the pump: Aside from the fact that a pry bar can damage the machined surfaces of the pump and case, you can see that it's very easy to completely wreck the thrust washer by wedging something between the front drum and the pump where it sits.
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kid??? o wow i wish!!
Last edited by novapat; 03-01-2014 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#26
03-01-2014, 09:15 PM
And btw tell me again how you check temp and pressure sensors without alldata? Oh those aren't on older transmissions...except for the ones built in the 90s? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Last edited by mysterync; 03-01-2014 at 09:21 PM.
#27
03-01-2014, 09:17 PM
#28
03-01-2014, 09:19 PM
ya don't need to.. if your that dumb than that's on you!! another FAIL
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ya what ever you say mr 2 day trans builder..
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Last edited by novapat; 03-01-2014 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#30
03-01-2014, 09:25 PM
