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'91 6BT snapped camshaft

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  #11  
Old 10-23-2013, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by novapat
bc. so if he got the matched lifters with the cam he would be okay.. correct?? even tho its in a different block?
I would think so.

Me being me, I'd take it to the point of ensuring the lifters were paired with their original mating cam lobe, . . . . . . . but I'm funny that way.
 
  #12  
Old 10-23-2013, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BC847
I would think so.

Me being me, I'd take it to the point of ensuring the lifters were paired with their original mating cam lobe, . . . . . . . but I'm funny that way.
yes a agree I don't like to change the wear pattern either... btw I asked you a long time ago about a knock that came and then went away and I found later that one of those good ddp injectors were poping at 1200lbs and burt my piston. I wish I was smart enough to post pics it was bad... I will never run ddp injectors again!!!

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Originally Posted by Nevadan
Thanks for the input David. I am getting the lifters with the camshaft. I don't know if they're numbered but I'll see when they arrive early next week. I hadn't even thought about tappets matching the cam, I figured it was more important the tappets matched the block, so like novapat I figured it would just work.

Two years ago I put a used piston into my 85 TD Jetta and had to hand file the cutout for the piston oil squirter into the skirt of the piston. I had friends tell me it would never work and I've now got over 50,000 miles on it and I'm getting over 40mpg. The head is basically worn out and the bores were out of spec but with new rings it's running pretty good. I have a good spare engine ready to put in but it's hard to not keep running the one in there.

I don't mind pushing things a bit if I think it will work.

I'll figure out a way to do a leakdown test before I pull the head for inspection. I may just put the cam in and do the test then. The two bent pushrods were in cylinders 4 and 6. The worst one, with the broken tappet, was in #6.

That sounds like a desirable beetle, one with a working heater! And 40 HP!!!!

I found a old injector today with a nut if you need it sent to you.. just weld a quick disconnect and put air in the cyl.. if you need it let me know I will mail it before I leave town.. also not sure if you have a welder to weld it?? I can do it if not.
 

Last edited by novapat; 10-23-2013 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #13  
Old 10-24-2013, 09:44 AM
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Thanks novapat, I'll definitely take the old injector, I'll PM you with my address, and I do have a welder. That's a good idea to weld a quick disconnect on it!
 

Last edited by Nevadan; 10-24-2013 at 09:52 AM.
  #14  
Old 10-25-2013, 12:33 AM
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Its on my counter for the mailman to pick up tommaro.. not sure if it will make it to reno Saturday. if not Monday. I sent 2 inj. nuts and one injector. I think I would gut the injector and just weld a quick disconnect so you could just bolt the injector in and hook air to it.. off to go camping.. back sunday night!! going to be a lot of quad riding and going on!!
 
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:12 PM
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That's my plan for the injector, we thinking alike here. Thanks for sending it. My cam doesn't arrive until next week so I've got time this weekend to get everything ready. Enjoy your off-road time.
 
  #16  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:26 AM
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Default Crank timing gear turned on crankshaft

More damage found!!!

While prepping everything for the arrival of my cam I noticed the main crankshaft timing gear sheared off the pin/key that aligns the timing gear to the crank.

Is there a way to pull the timing gear with the crank in the block, and of course the engine in the vehicle? There's about a 1/8 to 3/16" space between the face of the block and the timing gear. Am I going to have to fab another tool to get this off?

Should I just leave it in position and re-time the engine with the crank gear in its "new" position?

I really don't want to pull this engine. I'm a backyard mechanic, literally! My Dodge doesn't fit in my garage.
 
  #17  
Old 10-28-2013, 05:10 PM
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Default New engine found

So.........................I'm going to pull the engine and work on it when I can. I'll either fab a tool to pull the crankshaft timing gear or remove the crank and have a shop pull the gear.

I found a GOOD 1991 6BT with 240,000 miles and no oil leaks. The FIRST thing I'm going to do is remove the timing cover, tighten all the case bolts and put a tab over the killer dowel pin.

The replacement engine doesn't have an intercooler so do I need to change the injectors (swap them from the old engine) to match the intercooler?
 
  #18  
Old 10-28-2013, 05:29 PM
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intercooled and non intercooled injectors are different. the non intercooled heads are known for cracking. intercooled are 7mm and non 9mm.
 
  #19  
Old 10-28-2013, 11:56 PM
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Oh man! I'm still learning about these engines.

So maybe I'll just put the non-intercooled engine in and run it as is. I plan on getting the engine this weekend but I have to pull it from the truck it's in and persuade the guy I'm buying it from to haul it back to my house.

And thanks novapat for the injector, it arrived today. I will still use it when I start working on the KDP killed engine.
 
  #20  
Old 10-30-2013, 11:03 AM
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Default Photo's of KDP damage

So here's what I've found so far!!!! I'm going to pull this engine over the next few weeks and replace it with a non-intercooler engine I found for $1,500. Once this one is pulled I'll get further into it and see what else needs to be done. I'm also going to start a new thread on how to pull the crank gear without removing the crank.

Here's the crankshaft timing gear that's spun on the crankshaft and sheared the crank gear location pin.

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The broken tappet caused by the bent pushrod.
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The two bent pushrods from cylinder's 4 and 6.
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The KDP with a nice bite taken out of it and the camshaft gear. There was no damage to the cam gear.
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The KDP and the snapped camshaft.
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Last edited by Nevadan; 10-30-2013 at 11:49 AM.


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