Broke a bolt on my VE pump
#1
Broke a bolt on my VE pump
I was messing around with my VE pump and I took the cover off that goes over the diaphragm. There is some type of hollow bolt the connects a u shape tube to the to of the engine. When I was putting it back together and I over tightened the bolt and it snapped and I lost the copper colored washer piece that goes between the pump and the bolt. I need to know what this part is called and where I can get a new one. Please help, I really hope I haven't messed up to bad.
#2
That bolt is for the boost from your intake to push down the fuel pin to let you get more fuel with more boost. With it broke you just have no pin movement, which basically is like a valet switch. You won't get full power without it. Hope this helps, it's a simple fix.
Broke a screw but beat a powerstroke - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
Broke a screw but beat a powerstroke - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
#5
#8
The thread I posted had part numbers for the banjo bolt(Here is the Cummins Banjo Bolt Part # 3924724), and a easy fix to do it yourself with air fitting parts.
These are dodge part numbers, number 4 is the banjo.
Dodge part numbers ~
P/N 2 ~ 4429 391 SEAL, Grommet.
P/N 3 ~ 4429 728 WASHER, Sealing (2 req).
P/N 4 ~ 4429 729 SCREW, Banjo Connector.
P/N 5 ~ 4429 106 TUBE, Air Fuel Control.
These are dodge part numbers, number 4 is the banjo.
Dodge part numbers ~
P/N 2 ~ 4429 391 SEAL, Grommet.
P/N 3 ~ 4429 728 WASHER, Sealing (2 req).
P/N 4 ~ 4429 729 SCREW, Banjo Connector.
P/N 5 ~ 4429 106 TUBE, Air Fuel Control.
Last edited by 92betsy; 06-30-2013 at 10:45 AM.
#9
novapat's suggestion of drilling out (and threading) the AFC housing port, so as to convert it all over to "Off-The-Shelf" plumbing is NOT bad advice.
- It's nothing more than a tube that connects the intake-log to the AFC housing. It conducts air pressure.
Many folks do it as the dealer replacements are typically over the top in expense (IF still available).
IIRC, a couple of 1/8" NPT to 1/4" copper tubing adapters and 6" of 1/4" copper tubing works just as well as stock/OEM, and might cost $10.00 at Lowe's. (I use the 1/4" black plastic tubing instead of copper as I also run the W/M controller with that same boost signal. The plastic tubing is MUCH easier to work with and route).
- It's nothing more than a tube that connects the intake-log to the AFC housing. It conducts air pressure.
Many folks do it as the dealer replacements are typically over the top in expense (IF still available).
IIRC, a couple of 1/8" NPT to 1/4" copper tubing adapters and 6" of 1/4" copper tubing works just as well as stock/OEM, and might cost $10.00 at Lowe's. (I use the 1/4" black plastic tubing instead of copper as I also run the W/M controller with that same boost signal. The plastic tubing is MUCH easier to work with and route).
Last edited by BC847; 06-30-2013 at 07:58 PM.