1st Generation Dodge Cummins 89-93 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with Rotary Injection Pumps

89 Dodge 1 ton 4x4

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Old 03-24-2013, 06:14 PM
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Default 89 Dodge 1 ton 4x4

Hey Ya'll, hope everyone's doin good. Critique me please. im ALWAYS open to learning and quit frankly im new to diesel and want to figure this out as best i can. VE pump adjustment ect. i have read countless threads and would just like some Direct info straight about my truck and situation. Thank you, All of you

Im new to the Forum deal but i think im catching on aside from how to set a profile picture.
i just recently bought a new 89 Dodge Cummins. found on craigslist and bought next day.
found this puppy with 185,000 miles in good condition for 2700 bucks!!
Drove her home started off with a 223 dollar impoundment fee the next day for no tags. needless to say i wasnt happy.

Nonetheless i finally got her back and started wrenchin. i drove it a hour and a half home ran Perfect. the next day had to add almost 5 quarts of tranny fluid. i have NO idea how it made it home basically being empty. I preceded to check the power steering fluid and changed all of that, bright yellow foamy fluid ha. After those couple expenses she's now running like a top.

i have been reading non-stop how to upgrade this 5.9 non intercooled motor. ill throw out what i got Definitely Critique anything you see from me.

Saying this truck was bone stock with 185,000 miles. i started off:
Rotating my stock fuel pin 90 degrees to the steep side.
Shortening the throttle linkage by using the Next-in Hole on the front side.
Backing out the smoke screw so it is level with the Nut in the pump cap.
Lastly Rotating the fuel pin star wheel 1/2 turn.

Id Love to get More Power and a little puff of smoke as the cherry on top for the local Ricers.

I Need: Definitely my Pyro Boost and Tranny temp gauges
id then like to get the Denny T stage 2 fuel pin.
the 3200 Gov spring/ 366 Cummins
Advance the pump timing 1/8 inch
Cold air intake, but i cant find a good filter Maybe the BMAF? that people talk about.
Later the full fuel screw adjustment
and a Short Outlet 14 Non wastgated turbo housing for the H1C..

maybe down the road hx-35 if i could fine one cheap.. some type of improved injectors. give me what you got guys, im looking for the Best upgrades to do that i can manage.. i just have to figure out what they are
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:40 PM
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I didn't like having the throttle linkage on the next hole with mine (the extra pedal pressure wasn't to my liking). For extra power there's a screw located at the back of the pump (if it is stock there'll be a cover around it you have to take off with pliers) then with something to shut off air to the engine turn in the screw under the cover gently (if you turn it too far the engine will run away on you). Also if smoke is what you're after there's a company called m&h inc that make fuel pins, intake tubes, and some other 1st gen stuff. For the turbo that turbine housing should be great and swapping the compressor housing for the 60mm upgrade would show you a bump in power and reduction in egts

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Also instead of a timing bump m&h inc make something called dynamic timing advance which advances the timing at the top end while keeping your bottom end torque. The other thing about the timing advance is to take advantage of big injectors and such and won't do tons on stock stuff
 

Last edited by DMan1198; 03-24-2013 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for the reply Dman, that timing advance sounds nice, ill havet'a check it out. i was also reading about the Tranny's, Mine being a Auto. I dont know what model i have but i guess i need a new valve body and good torque converter also. I did a quick search on the first gen 12 valve and cant even find a better valve body. This should be interesting haha. I searched ATS, Suncoast i forget who else and only found 2nd gen and up
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:23 PM
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It might be worthwhile switching to a 47rh out of a second gen with a lockup torque converter. Being an 89 I think it's a 727 torqueflite 3 speed so the 4 speed overdrive 47rh would improve fuel economy quite a bit. That's the sad part about our first gens there just aren't many companies providing aftermarket stuff for them
 
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:14 AM
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I definitely wouldn't complain having Overdrive, atleast for the interstate cruising. she dosnt do Too back around 65 but there is definitely room for improvement. Do you have any idea if there are any big Flaws with the 47Rh?
 
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:19 AM
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47rh is a damn good trans once its built for sure do a shift kit better converter depending how crazy ya get on the psi for shifting and how much power you run is going to dictate if you need a one piece input i recommend it just to be safe for down the road however if ya wanna go full out give suncoast a call on thier carbon kevlar clutches I believe is what they were...they are better than the alto red clutches run some kolene steels get a better 2nd gear band apply lever strut and anchor. The trans in your truck should be a A500 if i remember right basically a 3 speed 727tf trans. Oh yeah get a deeper pan to like Mag Hytec or Dave Goerend. All that should do ya good if your building it be about 2500-3200ish if you find a cheap 47rh if not lookin at 4+ from a shop best of luck
 
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:20 AM
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Shewwie! That's more than the whole dang truck. But if it's That good I don't mind Throwin my money at her haha. I know how important a good Tranny is after Blowin mine when I was 17. 79 Chevy shortbed with a 18ft canoe stuck in a mud hole in the middle of the woods. It couldn't have got worse . Thanks for the reply 36valved. Looks like ill be hittin the junk yards hard soon.
When using the 47rh is it just a matter of Bolt and Go even though its got the overdrive? Jut curious what ill run into makin it all work.
 
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:26 PM
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I put about 3400 in my 48re in my common rail truck an lost track on how much in my 46rh in my 93 which is still down prolly about 2100ish in parts an me doin all the labor. My 48re holds great an i love how responsive it is! Though right off the bat ill tell ya your gonna need a lock up switch for the 47rh also be damn sure its a rh model from 94 or 95 its a hydraulically controlled overdrive an electronic to lock up not sure for wiring on a tps but a dnr customs potentiometer may help with it...thats my plan anyways on my first gen. Possibly could get a 47re an make it a manual valve body not sure on that one but it may work.....hope your head aint hurtin from info cheers mate
 
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:30 PM
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Thanks! My heads gettin close to hurting . I feel Dumb asking but what would the Lock up switch do for me? Why is it needed?
 
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:17 PM
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Since the 46rh is a non lock up it doesnt use a converter clutch just uses typical style 727 converter turbine stator an turbine to create flow this created a lot of heat in the 46rh thus why they 86ed that sob in 94......the 47rh has more clutches an introduction of the lock up style convert sorta like a mechanical clutch in a manual trans at what ever speed itll lock up with a clutch or clutches depending on how many you run in the converter oem is a single disc aftermarket goes up to 5 by ats....but the lock up switch will allow you to run in unlock(variable speed on the stator idk if wording is correct here) but locked will make it like a 1 to 1 drive in what ever gear like in heavy towing or lots of power gettin to the ground side note cannot shift with it locked up....so basically a auto manual trans...if that makes sense....

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Keep forgetin your trans is three speed not a 46rh 4 speed
 

Last edited by 36Valved I6s; 03-26-2013 at 04:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


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