I am going to check them all. As soon as I can get a chance to work on it...I got sidetracked today...If not during the week then this weekend I will do it...I will post up what I find..Thanks Mike

 

Just an update... I have taken off all the divertor valves and have found nothing...I did find the overflow valve had a bunch of black rubber in it...when cleaning it out the screen broke. So I had to completely take out the screen. I put it back together and it still runs the same.....Anybody have any more input on this??? The next step is Im going to take the injection pump out and take it apart. I really dont want to but Its looking like If this an issue from the rubber from the plunger,,then its stuck somewhere in there. Hopefully someone can come up with something else...

 

what probably happened is when you messed with the power screw it let that rubber by and when your driving it at cruise its getting enough pressure to move the rubber and get the correct flow to run right. and the smoking problem is probably the incorrect fuel pressure and the wrong air to fuel ratio will make it smoke. you might try pulling both ends of your fuel lines and blowinw them out with high pressure air to see if anything is in there be sure to blow it onto a rag or something to see if you can find the missing rubber piece. if its not that then you may try adjusting your timing. this post has some videos that will help you adjust some things like timing
https://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-ge...-me-these.html
hope this help you

 

Thanks for the videos.. I will check them out tonight when I get home... I did blow out my lines to the injectors only....I have been driving my bronco for 2 months now with the conversion done. Its been great up to now... I was also wondering if maybe I have water in my fuel or filter..I didnt get time this weekend to take it off and check...I AM close to empty as of now. What I also thought about is..If any of my injectors could be clogged with that rubber..There seems to be plenty of fuel squirting out of my lines at the injectors...I think Im frying my brain on this..Usually Im able to figure out just about anything I repair. I am a mechanic after all..But when I cant figure out an issue on something it drives me nuts. Im thinking of yanking each injector and taking each one apart and making sure they are clean..

 

What they said above!
This might help, for other problems, its only the basics, directly from Cummins....
1989-1993 DODGE

1989 - 1993 Dodge Diesel Diagnostics on PDF
Cold Advance Operation; The KSB unit on the injection pump uses a temperature sensor in the intake manifold to advance the pump to engine timing when the engine is cold, which reduces blue/white smoke.

1. 89 to early 91 used a wax motor style KSB unit that voltage is applied to, via the cold start switch, once the intake air temperature is above 160 degrees.
2. 91.5 to 93 used a solenoid style KSB. The intake air temperature sensor applies 12 volts to the KSB solenoid until intake air temperature is above 90 degrees.

Low Power

1. Check for full throttle travel, worn levers or throttle spring on the injection pump can limit travel.
2. Pump to engine timing off
3. Bad AFC diaphragm, check to see if it will hold a vacuum
4. Exhaust manifold leak (low turbocharger boost)

Slow to shut off

1. Remove the overflow valve and tap out onto a sheet of white paper, or remove the shutoff solenoid. If there are a lot of metal particles, the injection pump is coming apart inside (we see this happen frequently after approximately 150,000 miles) and must be changed along with the injectors (the metal will have been pumped through the injectors).

Miss/Rough run

1. As above, if the pump has a lot of metal in it, the metal can plug some of the spray holes in the nozzle tip. If there are holes plugged in the nozzles, find and fix the cause before replacing them (if the problem is in the pump, the replacement nozzles will soon plug as well).
2. If during cold start, see cold start operation
3. Pump to engine timing incorrect.
4. Idle speed too low, should be 700-800 rpm

Smoke, Blue/White

1. Blue/White smoke, if during cold start, see cold start operation.
2. Check intake air heater operation.
3. Dirty fuel filter
4. Low fuel supply pressure

Smoke, Black

1. Dirty or restricted air filter

Supply Pump

1. 1. Supply pump pressure should be about 4-5 PSI at idle

Turbocharger

1. The turbocharger is powered by exhaust gas velocity (expanding exhaust gases). Revving the engine up while in neutral will produce low boost. To accurately measure boost pressure you must have the engine under load, such as full throttle acceleration while driving.
2. if you are lacking fuel (galley pressure) at the right time (timing) or have an exhaust leak (loss of exhaust gas velocity) the turbo will not produce the correct boost. Solve these problems first, before replacing the turbocharger.
3. The turbo should spin freely while pushing the turbine shaft left, right, up and down while gently rotating the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel should turn freely by hand, if it doesn't replace the turbocharger.
4. Visually inspect the compressor wheel. The blades should not contact the compressor housing and the blades should not be chipped, bent or damaged in any way.

 

OK I just wanted to update on what I found so far... I took my injection pump apart and didnt find any of the rubber from the plunger.....What I DID find is that my piston?? for the timing advance in the bottom of the injection pump,behind the KDP, was frozen solid for some reason...something got in there and locked it up. I had to tap it out with a small hammer and punch. It was that stuck...I didnt damage anything.. I had to buy a small brake hone and hone out the inside of the injection pump where it slides in. Now it slides smooth back and forth. In a little I will have it back in the truck and see what happens...Any body think that this could have affected the truck this much and gave me my problem??? I hope so...

 

The main worry that I see is if you left any particles in the pump after honing, no filters after this point in the fuel system.

 

Hopefully you washed and cleaned all the honing giblets out....that little piece of rubber inside that fine toleranced pump can do all kinds of weird crap.
Its probably well down stream by now. 4000 to 7000 PSI will do all kinds of weird things with that rubber. I would suggest as you were going to do, take your lines loose from your injectors, and take them loose from the pump head, blow it out really well. Clean behind all the delivery valves, make sure they are working smooth.
Have you looked between your regulator thats upstream of your KSB on thru your ksb on the side of the pump? Pretty small passages in there. Have you opened up the KSB and make sure things are clean in there, too?
If you have the experience, I'd pull the whole thing down, clean it and blow it out. The VE's aren't too bad.
I agree, sounds like a flow problem....

 

I took the whole pump down and cleaned everything out, so theres nothing left...I must have something off somewhere. I got it in last night and after bleeding it, I got it started.. It reved up like it was 3/4 throttle and then it bogged down and shut off like it ran out of fuel. I then tried to restart it and it was airbound again. I had to bleed it again. So between my throttle not being indexed on the shaft correctly and my power screw out of adjustment. I still have some work to do today. What I can say is that for the 20-30 seconds that it ran each time it didnt smoke or break up. It ran great. So I have some kind of air getting in and my adjustments off. Ill post up what I find after fixing this.At least Im getting somewhere with it.

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OK.. This is now starting to really **** me off. I have it running now...Seems to running pretty good.EXCEPT it wont stop smoking. And at idle can kinda hear a little sputter out the exhaust. When I messed with it at work that day. it would smoke at idle but clear up driving,and I could feel a slight surge when crusing,as I said in earlier post. Im not driving it at this point to see if it clears up. Ive tried the power screw in and out,checked my fuel pin,,,I had to hit it with starting fluid to first get it started, Now it starts with the key again...WTF I fix one problem and now have a constant white smoke problem, AND its NOT coolant,my lift pump is new...So what could this be now???

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Just to add to this. I have let it sit again and it will not start on its own.. If i start it on starting fliud enough til it stays running then it will run and still smoke...Im out of ideas.

 

White smoke suggests misfiring, hard starting plus misfiring would suggest the timing is not right. Possibly something in the re-assembly of the timing controls (the sleeve that was stuck). By chance is it stuck again?