What would it take to swap a 02-13 dodge axle in a 93 w250. To me it looks like you just drop the axle and bolt the new one in and just shave the shock mounts. Our shock mounts aren't welded to the axle so it should just bolt in. Probly have to have a custom yoke made. I'm just not sure what will happen with the brakes but as long as I get juice I should be ok. 02 was the first year for disk brakes. Also will ford or Chevy Dana 70 work?

 

That would be cool, just a little work involved is all, most likely, you should be able to get it done somehow.

 

I did the swap with an 01 disc brake axle. You have to cut the sway bar mounts and weld a bolt onto the stock 01 U-bolt mount to make the shocks work like the 1st gen design or get some custom U-bolts made and use the stock 1st gen U-bolt mount. The 01+ axles are larger in diameter than the 1st gens. Not a hard swap to do, but I'm pretty sure I had to so some fabbing to the axle to get the stud on the bottom of the leaf spring blocks to fit. The leaf springs on the 1st gens are narrower than the ones on the 01, but you maybe able to bolt 01+ leaf springs in to make it easier.

 

What do you mean you are pretty sure you had to do some fab work?

 

I had to enlarge the holes in the leaf spring block mounts on the axles. I'm not sure what you call them, but the studs in the leaf spring blocks go into them. The problem is the spacing is not exactly the same. I can't remember which is narrower/wider now. All you need is a decent drill because it's not far off.

 

all rear 2nd gen axles should be a near drop in if not direct bolt in. a d80 will need larger u-bolts and the larger spring plate as the d70 is smaller as well as a shorter driveshaft. the 3rd gen axles are AAM not dana. the frames are wider so the perches will have to be moved and you will have to get a new driveshaft as the AAM axles have a 4 bolt flange. disc brakes require a different proportioning valve to operate properly. you DO NOT want as much pressure going to the back as you will wreck your truck. you may run into ABS problems aswell. also the AAM axles require a 17 in or larger wheel size, this just totally screwed up my swap on my 95. 16's wont clear the calipers, maybe with the right amount of grinding but not where i want to risk a failure.

 

so should I get the proportioning valve off the second gen also. I have a few second and third gens hanging around and it apears I can use 2wd axles as well. also I see some axles at junk yards are marked 3.54 and some are marked 3.55 and mine are 3.55 also I was wondering the most efective way to figure out the gear ratio.

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also I shoulkd explain the problem and see what you guys think, I think its worn ring and pinion or something wrong with the limited slip. So the truck has a clunk when you first start out and me and my brother start looking it over and I get in the truck and tell him to look at it. I step on the brake and let the cluch out kind like im trying to do a burnout and you can see the driveshaft slip about 3 inches and you hear a pop or the clunk

 

with a calculator, big gear divided by little gear. that # to 1 is you ratio

is your truck 4x4? keep front and backs identical, if its a 2wd put whatever you want in the carrier

and i would atleast put it in my tool box so i could play around with it (proportioning valve)

is the pop and clunk in the trans, rear end or u-jpints?

 

You can watch the rear end slip and clunk but there is also some play in the transfer case but the clunk definatly comes from the rear end. My brother just put in all new u joints and carrier bearing. to be able to do it with the calculator you would have to have the ring and pinon exposed, isnt there a way to lift it off the ground and spin the wheels to figure it out

 

yes but it is just a rough gues. about 4 to 1 is 4.10's and about 3.5 to 1 is 3.54's input revolutions to tire revolutions