So today I hooked up the new solenoid and! Nothing. Nothing at all. And I highly doubt the new one would be bad, and the relay is new as well, so there has to be something else. But what? I'm about to say screw it and do my own wiring on it. Any suggestions?

 

D60 is 5lug in my 1500 gasser...

 

Mine is wired on a momentary toggle. I just ran power in from battery to the toggle then power to the relay. It is supposed to be wired into the starter relay but this was kinda my alternative for the time being. Cant remember what color the wire is for the hold though. I guess take small steps and get it to lift up first then figure out what you need to run power to for the solenoid to hold up.

Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Replacement

 

Yes good job. Keep it up. You should start building valve for your car. I know it is pretty much difficult but finally you have to give a touch to the car. The pictures that have been posted here looks impelling.

 

angelic0- -And this is why I ask questions haha. I never thought about 5 lug 1500's using D60s. But wouldn't that be a much wider axle?

You see, I thought the solenoid needed to be wired to the starter solenoids, and those weren't hooked up properly, and to be honest, I still don't think they are. I'm going to put a few other things together and then start messing with it. I really do think that those starter solenoids hold the key to my problem. Thanks ricet07!

Coltoner- What do you mean by building a valve? And thanks for the compliments!

 

Yesterday was mildly productive. I got the vacuum lines hooked up (hopefully they all work properly) and we spent about three hours trying to figure out what to do with the fuel solenoid. We tested the volts on my truck and my buddy's truck, and both had the EXACT same numbers, but mine still wouldn't pull up. If I plugged my solenoid into his truck, though, BAM it snapped up no problems. We were also able to hook up a ground and a hot to the battery and that pulled it up without any issues as well.
I finally decided that we were going to wire it our own way. Here's my thought process:
If the pull up coil in the solenoid only activates when the starter is going, then why not hook up a hot wire to the starter and then whenever the starter gets power, so does the solenoid.
Does that sound crazy to anyone else? We already have the constant power going to the smaller coil, so I was just going to cut into the line on the plug and run the pull up coil wire to the starter and leave it at that.
So after my Dad's birthday breakfast, that's what I'll be working on. Once that goes, we test run it a couple more times, fix any leaks, throw the bumper and hood on, then see if she shifts. Well, also fix a few wiring issues we have .

 

Did you see my post from the other day with a link to the site with a wiring diagram. If you pull it up by hand with the key forward, does it hold itself up? You can do it the way you are talking about but make it cleaner and wire it into the starter relay in the fuse box like it should be stock. If you like want to have total control over it then use my method and run power to a toggle and then to the relay. Good Luck

 

Well, my web browser decided to throw away all that I had just typed, which for 3:30 in the morning is quite a bit. So here's the short:

ricet07- I did see your post, and it proved to be extremely helpful. We found out that the relay is not allowing power through it (we think it might have to do with not having the fuel bowl heater hooked up) and so we decided to by-pass it by putting a momentary push-button switch inside the cab.

We put the hood back on (still no bumper ) and took it for a quick test drive. Four issues popped up during this.

1- The front-most lifter is knocking, so it needs to be adjusted.
2- The "Trans Temp" light came on and my tach wasn't working, which could be a result of the PCM that we are using, because neither of those happened the other night with the 98 PCM we have, so I need to call the company that sold me that PCM and try to have it returned (trust me, they did nothing wrong, I took a shot in the dark on this to see if it would work)
3- The transmission also would not shift. So tomorrow I'm going to swap out both of our other PCMs and see if either of those will shift it. If not, then I think I'm going to have to call Powertrain Control Solutions and see if they have a harness that will work for a 47RE, and if they do, then I'm probably going to have to shell out the $600 for their standalone setup.
4- I have one last leak to deal with, and it is on the hose that comes down from the motor and into the power steering pump. That thing sucked to put on before, I hope it isn't horrible this time.

So there you have it. Until I type again,

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Well, we got a whole bunch done tonight. Actually took her down the road too

So here's what we did. We routed the rest of the transmission wires, and I think we will re-check some of the others later to make sure they are right, but we are pretty sure all of the plugs are properly added. But here's the unfortunate part, not a single one of our PCMs will shift the transmission. We tried the 98 12 valve manual, the 2001 V8 automatic, the new one that is supposed to be a 98 12 valve automatic (but I'm pretty sure they incorrectly flashed it), and we even got one from a friend that had a 96 12 valve automatic. And not a single one of them shifted. The trans is locked into third (limp mode from what I have been told) and so now I'm a little stumped on what to do. I'm going to try to get the TV cable properly adjusted tomorrow to see if that could help, because even though it's the same cable that came from the original V8, it may not work properly.

And now, something just as unfortunate, I had to swap out my nice 35s for those old 275s or whatever they are
I hit 40 down the road on the 35s, and I swear the whole front end was about to fall apart. It was ridiculous. So, swapped the tires out and it looks pretty much like a total sleeper truck now

Well, let's throw some positivity on this. Even though it is locked into third, we went up the road to Advanced Auto, and when we pulled out I mashed the pedal down for 2 seconds, looked back, and saw a bunch of black with white mixed in, and I thought "aww crap, I probably just blew the head," and then realized, nope, that was tire smoke, and there were two black lines right behind me! I did it one more time, and when the motor winded down, I heard a blowing inside the compartment. It was a lower intercooler boot. About 1/4 of it came off. Honestly, I was a little impressed ya know. This truck has wayyy more power than I had ever imagined.

So now we get to figure out how to make it shift. I'm thinking about just returning the PCM I bought from that company in Florida and then buying a Simple Shift controller and harness from Powertrain Control Solutions. I know their setup will work, but the problem is $$$. A couple calls and I believe I will have figured out what we want to do.
The 4wd Jamboree is going to be here on the 14th, and I haven't decided about some of the upgrades I'm interested in. I know that I'm thinking about getting a triple gauge pod from Glowshift, and getting trans and EGT as well as a 60# boost.
I'm also going to get either head-studs or the Mighty Diesel bolts. I know the bolts are a whole lot cheaper, but just like the Glowshift gauges, I'm wondering if I could stumble upon a deal while at the Jamboree. I'm just not sure if I should wait that long to get those.
I'm assuming y'all know what I'm running in this truck, so should I go with the ARP studs or the Might Diesel bolts?

Sorry for the huge read, more to report tomorrow!

 

For the past two or three days I have gone round and round with the guy from the computer place, trying to get the new one sent out. But he said it would take three days... I told him I wanted it overnighted, and he said only if I was willing to pay for it. Well, I held my ground and let him know that I wasn't going to pay for a mistake that their company made, and that I wasn't going to wait around for them to get me the new computer. I hate being a butt sometimes, but sometimes it has to be done or they just walk all over you.

And so it should be here Saturday
Not exactly overnight, but it was all free so I'm hoping it was worth it.

Tonight I got back and we tried to get it to shift.... Nada. Not one bit. However, and this is the part that kind of stumps me still, is the limp mode that it seems to be in. Here's what it does:
In Drive, it starts off in third gear, overdrive and lockup are non-existent (mostly because of the computer not being correct just yet), and if I drop it into second, it will downshift to second and allow me to start in second and then shift up, however, I cannot drop it into first and get it to start in first at all.
It seems like there are different versions of limp mode, so I'm hoping someone will stumble upon this and help me out. If not, I guess I'll try to get ahold of Dave Goerend.

I did a little research on the gauge cluster, trying to figure out why it won't light up and why the brights indicator is always running, and I have a bit of an answer. I swapped the 98 diesel cluster for the 2001 gasser cluster, and here's what changed: the check engine light, ABS light, and a couple others (that the diesel cluster may not even have) came on, which I expected. But also, the brights indicator went away BUT (and that is a huge BUT) my cluster lights still won't come on, so I'm at a bit of a loss on exactly how to fix that. I think to fix the brights indicator I just need to switch the wires that run to it, but to fix the cluster lights I'm not really sure what to do. The service manuals don't even seem to be of much help
Any-who, I think that's about it for the night. I'm hoping to get her rolling (properly) by next weekend for the 4WD Jamboree AND Luke Bryan/Jason Aldean concert. But who knows

 

So, this has been a CRAPPY week. Long story short:
ECU was supposed to be here Saturday the 8th, and never showed. Then I had a heck of a time getting them to finally get it shipped to me for real. Just got a tracking number tonight, supposed to actually get it tomorrow. Let's hope they don't try to jip me again though. Or my Dad will personally be delivering it to them in a week and a half.
So I haven't done anything else this week on the truck, except for looking into some more upgrades.
One of which being transmission upgrades. I found a guy on craigslist with a PTC triple disc torque converter for 400 or 500 bucks. Is it worth going after?
I also have been looking into a new stereo system as well since I only have one working speaker and the radio is so jank I just took the stupid thing out. I am talking to someone who used to work at Best Buy and he knows a butt-ton about car stereos, so I'm trying to get him to help me.
And last but not least, steering upgrades. The Death Wobble has taken over and possessed those 35s, so I definitely need to upgrade the front end. I'm thinking about a Carli low-mount stabilizer system, new tie rods adjustable track bar and steering box stabilizer all from Geno's. However, if anyone has any suggestions on what I should do or parts I should buy, I'm always welcome to hearing what you have to say. SPEAK UP!
Until tomorrow y'all!