12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

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Old 01-20-2008, 08:28 PM
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Im tryin to figer out if somethin is goin on with my truck. Ive been told with the 370's and no plate and 4kgsk i shouldnt be cleanin up the smoke. at WOT it cleans it up to a slight haze. im still runnin the stock turbo.

Thanks

Adam
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:34 PM
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what kind of boost pressure and EGT are you seeing? That'll help us decide if you're losing fuel due to a leaking pressure line between the Aneroid and intake plenum. 370's are generally pretty dirty, and on anything short of a small pumped and DV'd 94 or 95, they should be pretty hard to clean up with a stock turbo.

Chris
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:52 PM
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I'd run a 0 plate and check for adjustment (or factory plate ) on the Gov. Arm, But somthings not just right!
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Cummins Express
what kind of boost pressure and EGT are you seeing? That'll help us decide if you're losing fuel due to a leaking pressure line between the Aneroid and intake plenum. 370's are generally pretty dirty, and on anything short of a small pumped and DV'd 94 or 95, they should be pretty hard to clean up with a stock turbo.

Chris
Itll hit about 42psi and the egt gauge just keeps climbing. ive maxed the gauge out many a time. One guy i talked to said i should check my fuel pressure. i dont know its got me stumpped
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:43 PM
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my trucks has the same problem. I can clear my 5x16's! I'm going to be streching my overflow sometime to see if I get any results from it.
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:44 PM
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well it doesn't appear to be de-fueling due to the AFC then, and your pump should have adequate DV's in it to fuel fairly hard. Your fuel pressure most likely is fine, but could be raised to 40-45 psi from the stock pressure. This is easily done with a modification to the O/F valve. But get a permanent fuel pressure gauge before going that route. I assume your fuel filter is recent,and that you've checked the pre-filter screen on the fuel heater module?

I guess what I'd do is remove the AFC housing and just to verify you don't have an internal AFC bug, remove the AFC arm then replace the housing back on the engine and go for a drive. 42psi (too high BTW ) and 1600* plus, shows some fueling for sure, but them 370's should smoke, especially if they are out of the box marines and not re-ground to the correct angle. If things change after the AFC gut, then you know there's a problem in that circuit, or in the relationship of the governor arm and AFC arm.

Chris
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cummins Express
well it doesn't appear to be de-fueling due to the AFC then, and your pump should have adequate DV's in it to fuel fairly hard. Your fuel pressure most likely is fine, but could be raised to 40-45 psi from the stock pressure. This is easily done with a modification to the O/F valve. But get a permanent fuel pressure gauge before going that route. I assume your fuel filter is recent,and that you've checked the pre-filter screen on the fuel heater module?

I guess what I'd do is remove the AFC housing and just to verify you don't have an internal AFC bug, remove the AFC arm then replace the housing back on the engine and go for a drive. 42psi (too high BTW ) and 1600* plus, shows some fueling for sure, but them 370's should smoke, especially if they are out of the box marines and not re-ground to the correct angle. If things change after the AFC gut, then you know there's a problem in that circuit, or in the relationship of the governor arm and AFC arm.

Chris
Ive heard about guttin the afc but never read on how to do it. Do you have a link or somehtin? If nothin works its gonna get some laser cut DV's. cause i cant get the thing under 14.7 in the 1/4 im thinkin its cause i dont have enuf fuel at the high RPMs. I was hopin for more when i dynoed. it only hit 377hp 931tq.

Adam
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 10:00 PM
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It's pretty straight forward....you don't actually have to gut the housing, just remove the arm hanging down, which will render the aneroid useless.

1. Remove the AFC housing (I assume you know this procedure)
2. Turn it upside down and note the arm (now sticking straight up and out of the housing).
3. you'll see a shaft that the arm slides on, and below that the pivot that acts on the arm
4. Now, on the forward end of the housing, remove the 6mm bolt (10mm head)
5. Gently pry between the slotted tab under the bolt, and the housing to remove the shaft. It has an O ring on it to seal against oil, hence it is siff to get out.
6. Once the shaft is out, simply unhook the arm from the pivot and remove it.
7. Now replace the shaft and attaching bolt, and mount the housing back to the engine.

AFC position no longer is relevant, so just bolt it down wherever it lies. Hook up your boost pressure line to the AFC so you don't have any leaks and go for a drive.

Chris
 
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Old 01-20-2008, 10:16 PM
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ok thanks ill do that tommorow. What should i expect from doin this?

Adam
 
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Old 01-21-2008, 12:38 AM
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Lots of smoke off the line.
 


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