hey guys iv heard about turning the barrels on the pump without bring it to someone anybody done this or a how to would be awesome thanks

 

It's real easy if you look at the pump.

1- take the air intake horn off. this will open up the top of the pump.

2- You see the injection lines going into the top of the injection pump. The nut holding the injection line to the top of the pump need to be loosened to hand tight not taken off.

3- Down below the injection line nut is the delivery valve nut, down below that is a nut on a stud on the valve cover side and one on the fender side. I think they are like 15 mm.

4- There are two nuts per injector. You will loosen these two nuts. Under these nuts is the top of the barrel which has a frame around a half inch thick. On the valve cover side you will tap on the frame under the nut you just loosened toward the firewall. It will move around eighth inch or so and you will feel it get solid.

5- Do all of them this way and tighten everything back up. Enjoy the free horsepower.

copied from another post.

 

I dont understand why this is getting to be popular... Good way to melt a piston

 

its so frustrating when you get answers like this. please elaborate on how you believe or know this is bad for our engine, injecion pump ect. dont be stinggy with your knowledge. teach us. its why we are all on here.

thanks

 

Sorry to make you have so much frustration. Ok, how'd your egts get after you did this mod accurately by racking it all the way clockwise? Higher Im assuming because of the more fuel right? Or is it from a lean 1 or 2 cylinders you possibly have because you racked them with no way to be sure they are balanced. To me 300 bucks its balanced AND maxed out plus its cheap insurance when Im dealing with someting worth that much more... I would love it if you called Scheid and described what your "attempting" to get their opinion on it. But hey, its your truck your gonna do with it what you want and thats cool

 

through your sarcasm there are good facts in there. personally my EGT's went up about 100 degrees i max out at WOT at 950 ish, and a stock turbo. there are ways to check to see if they are balanced and never take your pump off. Scheid makes their living by the thousands of an inch, i would expect nothing less than helpful critisizm due to the nature of their business. a few cc's difference at low hp #'s isnt a big deal. just like a stock gasser with plug gaps mis matched. stock you most likely would never know they were different and it would run forever. but at 1000HP there would be something WRONG! if your planning on making big #'s and pulling the sled down the track, then definatly definatly get your pump benched.

 

It was a nice performance gain on the two trucks we did. I do have stock 95 injectors and the usual afc and plate mods. If this was a 180 or 215 pump a plate mod and afc mod will get more fuel than a stock turbo needs. These 160 pumps from what I have fooled with them don't respond near a good as the bigger pumps.

If done wisely you could rack the barrels on any pump and then use the afc and fuel plate to back up to the fuel you need. I feel it's a good free fuel mod. If you're not comfortably doing it don't.If you can't afford to pay for anything you screw up don't mess with it. That simple.

 

For most trucks on here, there is no need to mess with turning the barrels. Basic mods like mack plug, dv's, gov springs, timing, and afc adjustments are all that is needed as far as pump mods go.

 

On my brother in laws truck, he doesn't want to buy injectors and really isn't looking for a lot of horsepower. We did that, cut the plate and timing. Going to do a rack plug but the way it is it's pretty quick. It is a twd short bed so the wieght is as light as it gets. For him it was all free horsepower and I really think some afc work and a pusher pump will be all he will want for now.

I would suggest it on any 160 pump for anyone looking for more power.

 

every benched pump, i have ever seen has had the barrels twisted in it.