hey guys I was wondering if anyone has done the rear disk conversion on there 2nd gen I have a 96 4x4.. my rear brakes locked up on me today coming down the road, and I really just want to get rid of these drums!! Ive read, people using 77 k20 front rotors, calipers and pads and buying bracket kits.. but idk if i should go that route, or buy a "lagit" rear disk brake conversion as they say... i assume it would be the same just cheaper doin the k20 diy conversion,, just really looking for some solid info on a conversion if anyone has done it,or has any knowledge of it, Because as of now im driving rear brake less!

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does any one know were I can get an adjustible p, valve?


Thanks

 

yes they can be done and at a price that is not bad and parts one can get off the shelf ... only things are the custom mounts so you can use the OEM emergency brakes and the mounts to hold the rotors and calipers ... all are off the shelf or they will sell them to you
you can go to a junk yard to pick up the rotors and the calipers ,,, and I took mine to a guy I know who owns a machine shop and had the drilled and vented for nothing and the rotors only had to take about a 1000th of just to make them true and also give it a good surface ... asked him what he would charge a guy off the street to do the same work and told me about 50-60 bucks for the both
so I bought the basic kit with $339.95 and picked up the other parts ... rotors were 10 bucks and had to by the calipers new with the Braided Stainless hose 8" for a little over $320 a pair and those come with ceramic pads ... total cost installed was $669.95 ( helps to know ppl for the labor and parts and a good place to buy the basics
all stops great has a brake movement when you stop ... that is normal
this is what they tell you how to install the brakes
(1) Remove the axle and hub from the rear end housing in the usual manner.

(2) Bolt the base brackets to the housing using the 1/2-20 x 1 1/2 T-bolts nuts and lock washers The brackets can go forward or backward and in a 45 degree or 90 degree position. Also if you turn the bracket over there will be 2 slightly different positions for the caliper. The rear parking brake calipers have their bleed screw in the 90-degree position and the front calipers have the bleed screw in the 45-degree position. Bolt the top brackets to the base with the 3/8 & 1/8 spacers between. (The bracket is spaced to the inside of the car away from the rotor.)

(3) Reinstall the hub and then the rotor. Check for runout in the rotor .005 or less is good. Install the calipers just like they are installed in the front.

(4) The calipers move every time the brakes are applied and as the pads wear. We recommend using a flexible brake hose; this also makes it easier to change pads.

Before you disconnect the rear lines, pinch off the rubber line between the frame and axle. This will keep the fluid in the lines and make it easier when you bleed the system.
Hope this will help aslo this is made only for single wheels

 

Thanks a million for the info man, were did you buy the kit from? i need to get some rear stoping power in asap! went for a ride today with only front brakes, wasnt so bad until the brakes got hot then..... lets just say it was NFG so as of now im leaving her parked until I put the rear disk converion in!.. another thing is do you have to replace the stock proportioning valve with an adjustible one or can you run the stocky?

Thanks again

 

you do not have to change a thing in the rear works with the drum brakes PV and I do not know if they allow a outside URL to be posted here .... but pm me and I can give it to you that way

 

Thanks a bunch for the help, thought I was alone on this one! do you have any pics of your set up?