Beginner engine mods
#1
11-21-2011, 10:12 AM
Beginner engine mods
hope this helps with some of the beginner questions
Fuel plate- This is a throttle stop the smaller the throttle stop and farther away from the arm (FF) the more fuel you can get. Will raise EGT’s but no where near scary if this is you first mod -cheap to free if you grind your plate-
AFC, star wheel, fuel screw, washer flip tune- this is a tune, won’t make a real noticeable power increase just make for a better running engine with more potential –Free-
Boost elbow- this will just trick your factory wastegate into opening later so your boost #’s will be higher. Super easy to install and cost like $30
Governor springs- VERY noticeable change in power. By far, in my opinion the best beginner mod for your engine. 3k’s are fine for every day stuff 4k’s get a little more touchy but are fine for the road and 5k’s are very touchy mostly for racing applications but can be used on the street. You have to have engine mods to safely run 5k’s and really need 60lbs valve springs to run 4k’s $100-$200ish depending on if you get valve springs, 5k’s cost more
2095 rack plug- allows the rack to travel 2mm farther allowing for more fuel at WOT. $15 part
Turning the barrels- this adds bunches of fuel. Super easy to do, takes like 20 minutes. This will make your pump out of balance. it will increase the flow of fuel and EGT’s. You can take your pump to the shop and spend a few hundred to do this, but for me it wasn’t worth my money. I have personally not notice any ill effects from this, just a quite definite gain in power. I have had this done for many miles now as well. –Free-
Over flow valve- this is the small valve on the pump. By replacing it you can retain higher fuel pressures cost like $40 or you can gently stretch the stock spring for free
So for approximately $200 worth of parts and a little time you can easily gain 100 to 150 HP
Fuel plate- This is a throttle stop the smaller the throttle stop and farther away from the arm (FF) the more fuel you can get. Will raise EGT’s but no where near scary if this is you first mod -cheap to free if you grind your plate-
AFC, star wheel, fuel screw, washer flip tune- this is a tune, won’t make a real noticeable power increase just make for a better running engine with more potential –Free-
Boost elbow- this will just trick your factory wastegate into opening later so your boost #’s will be higher. Super easy to install and cost like $30
Governor springs- VERY noticeable change in power. By far, in my opinion the best beginner mod for your engine. 3k’s are fine for every day stuff 4k’s get a little more touchy but are fine for the road and 5k’s are very touchy mostly for racing applications but can be used on the street. You have to have engine mods to safely run 5k’s and really need 60lbs valve springs to run 4k’s $100-$200ish depending on if you get valve springs, 5k’s cost more
2095 rack plug- allows the rack to travel 2mm farther allowing for more fuel at WOT. $15 part
Turning the barrels- this adds bunches of fuel. Super easy to do, takes like 20 minutes. This will make your pump out of balance. it will increase the flow of fuel and EGT’s. You can take your pump to the shop and spend a few hundred to do this, but for me it wasn’t worth my money. I have personally not notice any ill effects from this, just a quite definite gain in power. I have had this done for many miles now as well. –Free-
Over flow valve- this is the small valve on the pump. By replacing it you can retain higher fuel pressures cost like $40 or you can gently stretch the stock spring for free
So for approximately $200 worth of parts and a little time you can easily gain 100 to 150 HP
#2
11-21-2011, 10:35 AM
Diesel Bomber
hope this helps with some of the beginner questions
Fuel plate- This is a throttle stop the smaller the throttle stop and farther away from the arm (FF) the more fuel you can get. Will raise EGT’s but no where near scary if this is you first mod -cheap to free if you grind your plate-
AFC, star wheel, fuel screw, washer flip tune- this is a tune, won’t make a real noticeable power increase just make for a better running engine with more potential –Free-
Boost elbow- this will just trick your factory wastegate into opening later so your boost #’s will be higher. Super easy to install and cost like $30
Governor springs- VERY noticeable change in power. By far, in my opinion the best beginner mod for your engine. 3k’s are fine for every day stuff 4k’s get a little more touchy but are fine for the road and 5k’s are very touchy mostly for racing applications but can be used on the street. You have to have engine mods to safely run 5k’s and really need 60lbs valve springs to run 4k’s $100-$200ish depending on if you get valve springs, 5k’s cost more
2095 rack plug- allows the rack to travel 2mm farther allowing for more fuel at WOT. $15 part
Turning the barrels- this adds bunches of fuel. Super easy to do, takes like 20 minutes. This will make your pump out of balance. it will increase the flow of fuel and EGT’s. You can take your pump to the shop and spend a few hundred to do this, but for me it wasn’t worth my money. I have personally not notice any ill effects from this, just a quite definite gain in power. I have had this done for many miles now as well. –Free-
Over flow valve- this is the small valve on the pump. By replacing it you can retain higher fuel pressures cost like $40 or you can gently stretch the stock spring for free
So for approximately $200 worth of parts and a little time you can easily gain 100 to 150 HP
Fuel plate- This is a throttle stop the smaller the throttle stop and farther away from the arm (FF) the more fuel you can get. Will raise EGT’s but no where near scary if this is you first mod -cheap to free if you grind your plate-
AFC, star wheel, fuel screw, washer flip tune- this is a tune, won’t make a real noticeable power increase just make for a better running engine with more potential –Free-
Boost elbow- this will just trick your factory wastegate into opening later so your boost #’s will be higher. Super easy to install and cost like $30
Governor springs- VERY noticeable change in power. By far, in my opinion the best beginner mod for your engine. 3k’s are fine for every day stuff 4k’s get a little more touchy but are fine for the road and 5k’s are very touchy mostly for racing applications but can be used on the street. You have to have engine mods to safely run 5k’s and really need 60lbs valve springs to run 4k’s $100-$200ish depending on if you get valve springs, 5k’s cost more
2095 rack plug- allows the rack to travel 2mm farther allowing for more fuel at WOT. $15 part
Turning the barrels- this adds bunches of fuel. Super easy to do, takes like 20 minutes. This will make your pump out of balance. it will increase the flow of fuel and EGT’s. You can take your pump to the shop and spend a few hundred to do this, but for me it wasn’t worth my money. I have personally not notice any ill effects from this, just a quite definite gain in power. I have had this done for many miles now as well. –Free-
Over flow valve- this is the small valve on the pump. By replacing it you can retain higher fuel pressures cost like $40 or you can gently stretch the stock spring for free
So for approximately $200 worth of parts and a little time you can easily gain 100 to 150 HP
#4
11-21-2011, 01:00 PM
On top of the pump the injection lines hook up. Loosen the nut that hold the injection line on hand loose. Now down below on each side are two nuts holding the delivery valve housing to the pump.
Loosen the nut on each side and tap the frame below the nuts to the rear on the valve cover side of the pump. You will feel it get solid, stop and tighten up the nuts. Do all six this way, tighten the injection lines up and put the air horn back on. Probably around 30 to 50 free horsepower.
Bumping the timing for free is also a simple power adder. If you go in to fix the kdp it's a real great time to bump the timing and again it's free.
Loosen the nut on each side and tap the frame below the nuts to the rear on the valve cover side of the pump. You will feel it get solid, stop and tighten up the nuts. Do all six this way, tighten the injection lines up and put the air horn back on. Probably around 30 to 50 free horsepower.
Bumping the timing for free is also a simple power adder. If you go in to fix the kdp it's a real great time to bump the timing and again it's free.
Last edited by gwhammy; 11-21-2011 at 01:06 PM.
#5
11-21-2011, 01:11 PM
Diesel Bomber
#7
11-21-2011, 04:41 PM
Idle needs reset usually. Makes more power threw out rpm range. First thing I did to the 12 valve I just bought. The 95 was stock when I got it and wouldn't get out of its own way.
I bumped the barrels, cut a 100 plate,worked on the afc just a little,put in 4000gsk, and advanced the timing half an inch on the harmonic balancer while I was fixing the kdp. Ought to be around 6 to 7 degrees. Made a heck of a lot better truck out of it. Total cost 103 including silicone to put the front cover back on.
I bumped the barrels, cut a 100 plate,worked on the afc just a little,put in 4000gsk, and advanced the timing half an inch on the harmonic balancer while I was fixing the kdp. Ought to be around 6 to 7 degrees. Made a heck of a lot better truck out of it. Total cost 103 including silicone to put the front cover back on.
#10
11-21-2011, 08:42 PM
