thanks guys for the replies, its very possible the timing has slipped, i have the snap-on tool but the timing hasn't been touched since i got the truck 3 years ago. it does pop every once in awhile but only when not warmed up. as for the afc housing im getting plenty of fuel with out the plate and airdog with the starwheel ff i can black out the sun, its about half way now. there is a considerable difference in amount of smoke from ff to half way though. with the gov spring install i did i used a micrometer to insure the proper tightness and correct amount of stud was showing so i don't think it would be that. no exhaust leaks or air leaks i replaced the entire fuel system with the airdog install which fixed my air in the fuel problem. my charger has zero play side to side and correct amount in and out but it does take a bit to spool unless my star wheel is close to stock location. for further reference i run at 700-800 degrees at 70mph at 2000 rpm with 3-5 psi 10 psi on hills with seems right due to the lack of extra load from not having a fan. brand new fuel shut off selinod as well. and 3200 rpm is while driving i dont like to push it too much further then 3k until the 60 lb valve springs are installed. other then the lack of power the truck runs great starts with half a crank and pulls good up to 28-30 psi. but thats all i can hit. the turbo is plugged both on the housing side and wastegate side. is it possible my wastegate is bad? thanks again

 

its possible that it is carboned up and staying open a small bit. if you get some time take it apart and give her a good lookin over. you should be able to push 35psi almost instantly.

 

wastegate maybe stuck open.

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also check for a boost leak at your grid heater....i had one there a while back.... also maybe just your gauge is going bad.

 

like the gasket for the intake horn to the grid heater? hmm haven't thought about that. how hard is it to take the wastegate off? how could i tell if its functioning correctly

 

Make sure the goveroner springs are tensioned completely evenly or it will bind causeing the rack to not fully travel and limiting fuel. You should be able to get it over 1000 degrees with no fuel plate if you work it hard. So it sounds like a fueling issue to me but I can't be sure with out looking at it.

 

i would adjust those gov springs and turn them up a couple clicks

 

i set them to the specified amount i think im gonna try the click method 4 clicks after the intial i supposed to be where you want it, how much more over that can i go safely? also how did yall keep the valve in place when puttin in your 60 lbers? compressed air in the injector hole?

 

Well i have to add im having the same problem. (1994 2500 4x4 auto) Yet i have a CAI stock exhaust minus the cat and muffler, and i had a 180 pump fuel plate. I dont have gauges to help other then a boost gauge. but with the plate all the way forward and the starwheel maybe 1/8 inch away from front of the hole. All i get is a pluff of smoke then its gone and 28 29 psi and it burns fuel i drove 805 miles and put about 50-60 gallons in. thats about 16-13 mpg.

I will add though i now my wastegate is locked up because if i hook the boost tube up i only get 8 psi. 30mpg ish its at like 2 psi and 52 mpg in 4th is like 6 psi.

So maybe that would help you. and maybe someone would now why im burning so much fuel. Im thinking my wastegate is stuck open so im taking it off tomorrow after work.

 

Engine TDC will let the valve drop slightly but will rest ontop of the piston, then you go by paired cylinders. Do two cylinders before the next rotation then the next two. Paired as follows. 1-6 2-5 3-4


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you have fuel problems, at 70 I see 2-3 psi now if Hammer it 37 instantly and 1250 egts. You have injectors so you should be running better than me.