View Poll Results: When I start the truck with the turbo on, will something blow?
If nothing is blown now, doesn't sound funny, and no shavings no you'll be fine
10
58.82%
Very good chance or a positive chance something will blow when turbo is attached
7
41.18%
Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll
Lets assume my motor was ran out of oil very briefly...
#61
OK, I've read through this again and see some really dubious stuff that is just pissing me off:
Since when is the bottom end associated with blowby and piston rings?
i thought thats what caused blowby. worn piston rings, blown headgaskets etc, that allows the combustion gases to pass by the bottom end into the crankcase. but if i am wrong let me know but thats what ive always interpreted blowby as and what i was taught in school. so therefore it would have to do with a bottom end and piston rings.
And what makes you think this is in any way even remotely associated the rear block cooling issues that have affected every B series engine since the first one that was installed in a Case combine in 1984?
thats what i have read about a bunch and have always heard that is the problem with them. again correct me if i am wrong i dont own a CR truck.
People need to step back and stop trying to give advice about things they are not knowledgeable on. Really disappointing. I won't bother further validating any portion of this thread by explaining what a bottom end is, the rear cylinder cooling issue, or why you should never run an engine low on oil.
if your not willing to help or explain, why post on it. at least we are TRYING to help. may the information be right or wrong. we are just tryin to help the poor guy out like everyone else has helped all of us out along the way
Please people, more reading and learning and less typing of horseshit.
Sell it or part it out are the only fiscally responsible alternatives. And do us all a favor - don't buy another.
Since when is the bottom end associated with blowby and piston rings?
i thought thats what caused blowby. worn piston rings, blown headgaskets etc, that allows the combustion gases to pass by the bottom end into the crankcase. but if i am wrong let me know but thats what ive always interpreted blowby as and what i was taught in school. so therefore it would have to do with a bottom end and piston rings.
And what makes you think this is in any way even remotely associated the rear block cooling issues that have affected every B series engine since the first one that was installed in a Case combine in 1984?
thats what i have read about a bunch and have always heard that is the problem with them. again correct me if i am wrong i dont own a CR truck.
People need to step back and stop trying to give advice about things they are not knowledgeable on. Really disappointing. I won't bother further validating any portion of this thread by explaining what a bottom end is, the rear cylinder cooling issue, or why you should never run an engine low on oil.
if your not willing to help or explain, why post on it. at least we are TRYING to help. may the information be right or wrong. we are just tryin to help the poor guy out like everyone else has helped all of us out along the way
Please people, more reading and learning and less typing of horseshit.
Sell it or part it out are the only fiscally responsible alternatives. And do us all a favor - don't buy another.
Last edited by tltruckparts; 04-25-2010 at 08:56 PM.
#62
#63
So you are saying your CR has been good? No issues? Because I really want one, but I want to make sure this thing that I"m gonna be paying out the *** for doesn't blow up on me and start leaving me stranded
#64
#66
Half right. It is correct that the reason for the bypass valve is its supposed to save your engine from oil starvation in the case of a plugged filter. From my experience, you would be lucky to get a filter which bypasses above 20psi. After cold startup before the oil has had a chance to thin and clearances settle, not all oil is filtered and a good amount is bypassed because of the large pressure drop across the filter and the crappy bypass designs. Most don't seem to work right and bypass before they should. There are true full flow filters out there which do not have a bypass valve, but I'm not sure if I'd recommend them. I will admit that I am somewhat inexperienced with these engines and my statement was a generalization, but If these trucks happen to have a higher than normal bypass pressure or no bypass in all of their filters, I would be suprised.
I apologize for my outburst earlier. I was in a bad mood and the name calling struck a nerve.
I apologize for my outburst earlier. I was in a bad mood and the name calling struck a nerve.
#67
i think alot of the problem is that the injectors are so sensitive that if you get bad fuel they are more likely to hang open and gauld pistons. on my 05 i had a aux. tank with a pump to fill up our equipment. they made me put a filter on the pump in the back. they said if they ever found any metal in my filter when they did my injectors the warranty would be void.
#68
So far my 5.9L CR has been great. However, I haven't tried running it out of oil yet! You kids are a hoot to listen to!!! With as much of a disposable income that some of you seem to have by buying multiple turbos and fixing worn out engines that have no business being fixed, and paying some other person to do the work for you, our economy should be recovering any minute now!
Seriously, though.... ditch that engine. If you can get a used 12V or 24V for a $1K-$2K that has less than 100K miles on it, do it. Then take that newly purchased engine, tear it apart, check it over, read the manuals, get the experience, rebuild anything that doesn't look right, have a beer, and install it in your truck. That way you gain the experience of knowing how a diesel works(besides P.F.M.), you save a metric butt-load of money over having someone else do it for you (even if you have to purchase a couple of tools that you might not already own), you get the satisfaction of working on your own vehicle, AND YOU LEARN NOT TO RUN THEM WITHOUT OIL IN THE FUTURE!!!
I'm just saying ... that's all.
Seriously, though.... ditch that engine. If you can get a used 12V or 24V for a $1K-$2K that has less than 100K miles on it, do it. Then take that newly purchased engine, tear it apart, check it over, read the manuals, get the experience, rebuild anything that doesn't look right, have a beer, and install it in your truck. That way you gain the experience of knowing how a diesel works(besides P.F.M.), you save a metric butt-load of money over having someone else do it for you (even if you have to purchase a couple of tools that you might not already own), you get the satisfaction of working on your own vehicle, AND YOU LEARN NOT TO RUN THEM WITHOUT OIL IN THE FUTURE!!!
I'm just saying ... that's all.
#69