dash removal
#2
I had to tear mine apart to fix some wires, its not too bad, pull the front bezel off, take the cup holder out, remove all the screws and bolts you can see holding it on then remove the little 8mm bolts up along the windsheild and it should come right off, you might be able to leave the A pilliar covers on, I took mine off just to make it a little easier.
#4
Hey heres an idea instead of totally replacing the dash, buy one of those plastic dash kits that fit right over the dash. they are like 140$ or so, and look completely stock. I made a thread about it recently and the guys who have used them say they look totally stock and fit really good. It's a dash that goes ontop of your dash. Look at my thread or check out lmc truck
#5
Note that you have to pull the ENTIRE dashboard out of the truck in order to gain access to all the screws and clips to change the top cover.
Adding to the instructions given by 95cumminsguy above, you also probably need to pull the seats, and you will need to lower or pull the entire steering coloumn (watch out for the shift indicator if you have an auto -- unhook it).
Then both kick panels also need to be removed (or at least loosened enough so they can sort of fold inward), the T-case lever will need to be all the way back (if 4x4).
After you loosen all the screws along the windshield, the entire dashboard will swing out on two lower bolts that are covered by the kick panels. For some repairs (heater valves, core, etc.) you can get by with just this much.
If you need to entirely pull it, pull the two bolts, then carefully start disconnecting wires and stuff. Each plug is unique, so no big deal to get them all plugged back in. Heater cable is a bigger problem, it will probably break if you try to pull it from the top of the heater box. Might be better to pull the heater controls out the front and disconnect the RED clip from the back of the heater control by unscrewing the slide that it hooks to. Once everything is unhooked, it pops right out.
For guys reading this to do a heater core replacement -- you can speed the process by cutting the two tubes that feed the core, then installing the new core with a pair of short rubber hoses and clamps. That will let you pull the core out of the heater box without all th extra work. Otherwise, you get to discharge the A/C and pull the entire heater box also (screws are in the engine compartment).
Adding to the instructions given by 95cumminsguy above, you also probably need to pull the seats, and you will need to lower or pull the entire steering coloumn (watch out for the shift indicator if you have an auto -- unhook it).
Then both kick panels also need to be removed (or at least loosened enough so they can sort of fold inward), the T-case lever will need to be all the way back (if 4x4).
After you loosen all the screws along the windshield, the entire dashboard will swing out on two lower bolts that are covered by the kick panels. For some repairs (heater valves, core, etc.) you can get by with just this much.
If you need to entirely pull it, pull the two bolts, then carefully start disconnecting wires and stuff. Each plug is unique, so no big deal to get them all plugged back in. Heater cable is a bigger problem, it will probably break if you try to pull it from the top of the heater box. Might be better to pull the heater controls out the front and disconnect the RED clip from the back of the heater control by unscrewing the slide that it hooks to. Once everything is unhooked, it pops right out.
For guys reading this to do a heater core replacement -- you can speed the process by cutting the two tubes that feed the core, then installing the new core with a pair of short rubber hoses and clamps. That will let you pull the core out of the heater box without all th extra work. Otherwise, you get to discharge the A/C and pull the entire heater box also (screws are in the engine compartment).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FELTONMICHAEL
Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L
0
12-28-2014 01:09 PM