And your just asking to snap the studs off doing this. You are way past the yield point of the stud. Also DO NOT torque them hot or warm they must be fully cooled down.

 

theres a diesel shop here that has taken up to 175 with no issues

 

You forgot a key word, YET.

 

can you do a re-torque when they are warm?

 

no always cold

 

i would do studs so you dont have any problems. when you torque bolts down they stretch thats why there is a torque spec on them, so you dont strech them too far and fatigue them. they will only put so much pressure down then they just stretch the bolt the further you go.

 

IMO...Those 4 words do not fit in one sentence together.

When you start talking about cheap fixes for headgaskets your asking for problems.

 

if your are gonna retorque your stock bolts, i think you need to at least back them out( brake loose) or even pull one at a time in the spyder web pattern and lube them to get a proper torque reading, i did mine to 125, i tried 135 and it felt sketchy, but when i get a job im get studs minimum, most of the bolts have some oil on them but some are bone dry and crusty.

 

Is there a good headgasket to use when useing studs i blew a felpro w/ new head bolts the block was decked and head resurfaced my upgrades are 4inch exhaust 3000 gov.springs,timing set at 14.5-15,fuelplate is a # 10 it blew after about 800 miles i dont think i was giving alot of pedal but it is alot of fun w/this setup i am getting gauges pyro,boost is a fuel pressure gauge a good thing too for a 97 12vavle?Man this site is great,but i got to figure out how to set up my sig, any help would be appreciated i would like to do it right this time and not worry about blowing another one,man its hard to figure out the correct torque settings there seems to be a difference in opionsMahalo(thx) in advance Hop Sing!

 

i sell allen bolts for head bolts. i can also get .020 marine headgasket. the head on my 97 puller has never been off. allen bolts tq 90lb and 90 degs.