Want to build a strong but quick 12v
#1
Want to build a strong but quick 12v
Okay so I'm looking to get up to 500hp or so and I was wondering what you all suggest. Currently done to the truck is; bigger fuel plate, bigger intake, cold air intake, triple disk billet torque converter, bigger rebuild kit, billet input and output shafts, 315/75/16 tires and a leveling kit I do believe, lift and tires were on it when I got it. I willing to see what I can get to without spending millions but also want it to be reliable when giving her and such. Also if anyone has a slight idea of what my tranny can handle I'd appreciate it! Thanks!
#2
About your transmission because I tend to root for the Nv4500 rigs, but if you want to make a 500hp build that is reliable, and that you can tow with, your certainly looking at compounds and studs. You'll want more fuel depending on which route you go, anyways total budget would be to throw an atmosphere under your stocker but it's inefficient and not going to be as long for life. Bottom line is what you want to spend and how you want it to drive. The sky is the limit.
#3
It's a bit of a loaded question. You can make 500 hp many ways, and depends how useable you want the 500 to be. You can have a 500 Ish set up but will have to turn it down or you can have 500 all the time and not have to turn it down as much to tow. And the thing about reliability and doing things correct is that's where the
money is. Not so much the power parts. Fluidamper, studs, valve springs, a proper lift pump ran at proper pressure, gauges, traction bars so you don't destroy your rear end, doing a coolant by pass. If your compounding I highly suggest o ringed head, tork tek over flow valve to keep fuel pressure proper. Your trans seems like it will likely handle it. Question is how easy do you want to make power, you can bigger compound set up and will need less timing, it will run cleaner and likely be easier on the engine with less boost, you can run a tighter cheaper compound set up but you will have to run higher timing likely and it may not tow at 500hp. Are you going to get afc live to control it on the fly or tune by hand, do you want the ease of timing adjustment of an adjustable gear or just set it once. Do you live somewhere cold in winter. 19 degrees timing is about all I'd do if it gets cold. Do you want to bother with the potential of slipping timing once you bump it, I've had timing slip so I got the head mostly to stop that. You can easily make 500 on a single and tow, but not likely at 500 horse. You would have to tune fuel down to do it comfortably. Sxe62/68
money is. Not so much the power parts. Fluidamper, studs, valve springs, a proper lift pump ran at proper pressure, gauges, traction bars so you don't destroy your rear end, doing a coolant by pass. If your compounding I highly suggest o ringed head, tork tek over flow valve to keep fuel pressure proper. Your trans seems like it will likely handle it. Question is how easy do you want to make power, you can bigger compound set up and will need less timing, it will run cleaner and likely be easier on the engine with less boost, you can run a tighter cheaper compound set up but you will have to run higher timing likely and it may not tow at 500hp. Are you going to get afc live to control it on the fly or tune by hand, do you want the ease of timing adjustment of an adjustable gear or just set it once. Do you live somewhere cold in winter. 19 degrees timing is about all I'd do if it gets cold. Do you want to bother with the potential of slipping timing once you bump it, I've had timing slip so I got the head mostly to stop that. You can easily make 500 on a single and tow, but not likely at 500 horse. You would have to tune fuel down to do it comfortably. Sxe62/68
#4
Sxe 62/68 would get there but might be a bit hot to tow with, he351cw over a sxe369 would be a good combo, fairly cheap and very fast spool. Supports about 6-700, can go stock over s475, he over s475, 62 over 75. There's lots of options. Could try a 64/74 or 64/68. 5x14 would be a good choice in injector size. Stay away from industrial and all those crooks, go for dap, power driven, Haley, dfi, any of those are good places to get injectors. Any dv will get you 500, factory 180 will do it and keep it clean, don't go nuts of fuel. 191 will, hybrid 181. Don't need a manifold, don't need an intake horn. That stuff you really don't need. If you want it get it. The manifold is best changed mainly because they crack
#5
It's a bit of a loaded question. You can make 500 hp many ways, and depends how useable you want the 500 to be. You can have a 500 Ish set up but will have to turn it down or you can have 500 all the time and not have to turn it down as much to tow. And the thing about reliability and doing things correct is that's where the
money is. Not so much the power par. Fluidamper, studs, valve springs, a proper lift pump ran at proper pressure, gauges, traction bars so you don't destroy your rear end, doing a coolant by pass. If your compounding I highly suggest o ringed head, tork tek over flow valve to keep fuel pressure proper. Your trans seems like it will likely handle it. Question is how easy do you want to make power, you can bigger compound set up and will need less timing, it will run cleaner and likely be easier on the engine with less boost, you can run a tighter cheaper compound set up but you will have to run higher timing likely and it may not tow at 500hp. Are you going to get afc live to control it on the flyor tune by hand, do you want the ease of timing adjustment of an adjustable gear or just set it once. Do you live somewhere cold in winter. 19 degrees timing is about all I'd do if it gets cold. Do you want to bother with the potential of slipping timing once you bump it, I've had timing slip so Igot the head mostly to stop that. You can easily make 500 on a single and tow, but not likely at 500 horse. You would have to tune fuel down to do it comfortably. Sxe62/68
money is. Not so much the power par. Fluidamper, studs, valve springs, a proper lift pump ran at proper pressure, gauges, traction bars so you don't destroy your rear end, doing a coolant by pass. If your compounding I highly suggest o ringed head, tork tek over flow valve to keep fuel pressure proper. Your trans seems like it will likely handle it. Question is how easy do you want to make power, you can bigger compound set up and will need less timing, it will run cleaner and likely be easier on the engine with less boost, you can run a tighter cheaper compound set up but you will have to run higher timing likely and it may not tow at 500hp. Are you going to get afc live to control it on the flyor tune by hand, do you want the ease of timing adjustment of an adjustable gear or just set it once. Do you live somewhere cold in winter. 19 degrees timing is about all I'd do if it gets cold. Do you want to bother with the potential of slipping timing once you bump it, I've had timing slip so Igot the head mostly to stop that. You can easily make 500 on a single and tow, but not likely at 500 horse. You would have to tune fuel down to do it comfortably. Sxe62/68
#6
Sxe 62/68 would get there but might be a bit hot to tow with, he351cw over a sxe369 would be a good combo, fairly cheap and very fast spool. Supports about 6-700, can go stock over s475, he over s475, 62 over 75. There's lots of options. Could try a 64/74 or 64/68. 5x14 would be a good choice in injector size. Stay away from industrial and all those crooks, go for dap, power driven, Haley, dfi, any of those are good places to get injectors. Any dv will get you 500, factory 180 will do it and keep it clean, don't go nuts of fuel. 191 will, hybrid 181. Don't need a manifold, don't need an intake horn. That stuff you really don't need. If you want it get it. The manifold is best changed mainly because they crack
#7
About your transmission because I tend to root for the Nv4500 rigs, but if you want to make a 500hp build that is reliable, and that you can tow with, your certainly looking at compounds and studs. You'll want more fuel depending on which route you go, anyways total budget would be to throw an atmosphere under your stocker but it's inefficient and not going to be as long for life. Bottom line is what you want to spend and how you want it to drive. The sky is the limit.
#8
Ok so single. A safe turbo would be a sxe s362, 62/68 .70 t3. Should make 500whp if you have it set a bit hotter but will definetly tow anything you need. Fast spool, good low end torque. I highly suggest power driven diesel for fuel aswell as turbos, great independent company that knows what's up. They also offer the afc live tuner which I personally think is awesome. They have essentially 2 stages. 1 for normal use, and 2 for normal use with a full fuel switch. They have injectors, and pump parts. For fuel I'd suggest 5x12 or 5x14 injectors, and maybe some cleaner dv's. Like stock 181 would likely get you to 500 ish horse but stay nice and clean. I would talk to Todd or one of the guys at power driven and he will help you set it up. But he will say something similar. Might give you a deal on a turbo, injectors, afc live and whatever else you get from them. And as for supply pump a fass 150 would be plenty if you go electric or pdd ( power driven diesel) makes a hot rod mechanical stock lift pump that will support 500 no problem and is a bit cheaper obviously. Traction bars, for the rear differential so it doesn't hop around. With all the torque you will be destroying driveshafts. That's all the power stuff but don't forget you need supporting mods like studs, valve springs etc.
#9
Ok so single. A safe turbo would be a sxe s362, 62/68 .70 t3. Should make 500whp if you have it set a bit hotter but will definetly tow anything you need. Fast spool, good low end torque. I highly suggest power driven diesel for fuel aswell as turbos, great independent company that knows what's up. They also offer the afc live tuner which I personally think is awesome. They have essentially 2 stages. 1 for normal use, and 2 for normal use with a full fuel switch. They have injectors, and pump parts. For fuel I'd suggest 5x12 or 5x14 injectors, and maybe some cleaner dv's. Like stock 181 would likely get you to 500 ish horse but stay nice and clean. I would talk to Todd or one of the guys at power driven and he will help you set it up. But he will say something similar. Might give you a deal on a turbo, injectors, afc live and whatever else you get from them. And as for supply pump a fass 150 would be plenty if you go electric or pdd ( power driven diesel) makes a hot rod mechanical stock lift pump that will support 500 no problem and is a bit cheaper obviously. Traction bars, for the rear differential so it doesn't hop around. With all the torque you will be destroying driveshafts. That's all the power stuff but don't forget you need supporting mods like studs, valve springs etc.
#10