12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps

Want to build a strong but quick 12v

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 02-05-2017, 11:59 PM
Levi Leffler's Avatar
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Want to build a strong but quick 12v

Okay so I'm looking to get up to 500hp or so and I was wondering what you all suggest. Currently done to the truck is; bigger fuel plate, bigger intake, cold air intake, triple disk billet torque converter, bigger rebuild kit, billet input and output shafts, 315/75/16 tires and a leveling kit I do believe, lift and tires were on it when I got it. I willing to see what I can get to without spending millions but also want it to be reliable when giving her and such. Also if anyone has a slight idea of what my tranny can handle I'd appreciate it! Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 02-06-2017, 09:22 AM
GasItOut's Avatar
Diesel Fan
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Bozeman MT
Posts: 65
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

About your transmission because I tend to root for the Nv4500 rigs, but if you want to make a 500hp build that is reliable, and that you can tow with, your certainly looking at compounds and studs. You'll want more fuel depending on which route you go, anyways total budget would be to throw an atmosphere under your stocker but it's inefficient and not going to be as long for life. Bottom line is what you want to spend and how you want it to drive. The sky is the limit.
 
  #3  
Old 02-07-2017, 09:03 AM
wpg6.5's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

It's a bit of a loaded question. You can make 500 hp many ways, and depends how useable you want the 500 to be. You can have a 500 Ish set up but will have to turn it down or you can have 500 all the time and not have to turn it down as much to tow. And the thing about reliability and doing things correct is that's where the
money is. Not so much the power parts. Fluidamper, studs, valve springs, a proper lift pump ran at proper pressure, gauges, traction bars so you don't destroy your rear end, doing a coolant by pass. If your compounding I highly suggest o ringed head, tork tek over flow valve to keep fuel pressure proper. Your trans seems like it will likely handle it. Question is how easy do you want to make power, you can bigger compound set up and will need less timing, it will run cleaner and likely be easier on the engine with less boost, you can run a tighter cheaper compound set up but you will have to run higher timing likely and it may not tow at 500hp. Are you going to get afc live to control it on the fly or tune by hand, do you want the ease of timing adjustment of an adjustable gear or just set it once. Do you live somewhere cold in winter. 19 degrees timing is about all I'd do if it gets cold. Do you want to bother with the potential of slipping timing once you bump it, I've had timing slip so I got the head mostly to stop that. You can easily make 500 on a single and tow, but not likely at 500 horse. You would have to tune fuel down to do it comfortably. Sxe62/68
 
  #4  
Old 02-07-2017, 09:11 AM
wpg6.5's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Sxe 62/68 would get there but might be a bit hot to tow with, he351cw over a sxe369 would be a good combo, fairly cheap and very fast spool. Supports about 6-700, can go stock over s475, he over s475, 62 over 75. There's lots of options. Could try a 64/74 or 64/68. 5x14 would be a good choice in injector size. Stay away from industrial and all those crooks, go for dap, power driven, Haley, dfi, any of those are good places to get injectors. Any dv will get you 500, factory 180 will do it and keep it clean, don't go nuts of fuel. 191 will, hybrid 181. Don't need a manifold, don't need an intake horn. That stuff you really don't need. If you want it get it. The manifold is best changed mainly because they crack
 
  #5  
Old 02-07-2017, 11:22 PM
Levi Leffler's Avatar
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wpg6.5
It's a bit of a loaded question. You can make 500 hp many ways, and depends how useable you want the 500 to be. You can have a 500 Ish set up but will have to turn it down or you can have 500 all the time and not have to turn it down as much to tow. And the thing about reliability and doing things correct is that's where the
money is. Not so much the power par. Fluidamper, studs, valve springs, a proper lift pump ran at proper pressure, gauges, traction bars so you don't destroy your rear end, doing a coolant by pass. If your compounding I highly suggest o ringed head, tork tek over flow valve to keep fuel pressure proper. Your trans seems like it will likely handle it. Question is how easy do you want to make power, you can bigger compound set up and will need less timing, it will run cleaner and likely be easier on the engine with less boost, you can run a tighter cheaper compound set up but you will have to run higher timing likely and it may not tow at 500hp. Are you going to get afc live to control it on the flyor tune by hand, do you want the ease of timing adjustment of an adjustable gear or just set it once. Do you live somewhere cold in winter. 19 degrees timing is about all I'd do if it gets cold. Do you want to bother with the potential of slipping timing once you bump it, I've had timing slip so Igot the head mostly to stop that. You can easily make 500 on a single and tow, but not likely at 500 horse. You would have to tune fuel down to do it comfortably. Sxe62/68
I live in wisconsin so it can get very cold, I'd rather stay single turbo because I just like how they work, I had a 24 valve with twins and maybe the shop I took it to did it all wrong but it seemed laggy and whistled a little much. I'd rather here the knock of the engine versus all turbo whine. What do you recommmend fuel wise? I have a fass 150 on my other truck and liked it but is here a better way to do it? Also I'd like Togo with on the fly tuning my buddy has a spartan tuner in his 6.4 and I like how that works but I've also heard people bashing on others for using a tuner on a 12v. Good track bars? Mine is intercooled and all my gauges seem to always stay down. I'd like to use if for towing since we'll be hauling the team race car often in the summer. If any of this is confusing let me know.
 
  #6  
Old 02-07-2017, 11:23 PM
Levi Leffler's Avatar
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wpg6.5
Sxe 62/68 would get there but might be a bit hot to tow with, he351cw over a sxe369 would be a good combo, fairly cheap and very fast spool. Supports about 6-700, can go stock over s475, he over s475, 62 over 75. There's lots of options. Could try a 64/74 or 64/68. 5x14 would be a good choice in injector size. Stay away from industrial and all those crooks, go for dap, power driven, Haley, dfi, any of those are good places to get injectors. Any dv will get you 500, factory 180 will do it and keep it clean, don't go nuts of fuel. 191 will, hybrid 181. Don't need a manifold, don't need an intake horn. That stuff you really don't need. If you want it get it. The manifold is best changed mainly because they crack
where do you recommend looking at for injectors? Websites? Best place for a good single turbo?
 
  #7  
Old 02-07-2017, 11:25 PM
Levi Leffler's Avatar
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by GasItOut
About your transmission because I tend to root for the Nv4500 rigs, but if you want to make a 500hp build that is reliable, and that you can tow with, your certainly looking at compounds and studs. You'll want more fuel depending on which route you go, anyways total budget would be to throw an atmosphere under your stocker but it's inefficient and not going to be as long for life. Bottom line is what you want to spend and how you want it to drive. The sky is the limit.
what do you recommend for fuel??
 
  #8  
Old 02-08-2017, 05:18 PM
wpg6.5's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Ok so single. A safe turbo would be a sxe s362, 62/68 .70 t3. Should make 500whp if you have it set a bit hotter but will definetly tow anything you need. Fast spool, good low end torque. I highly suggest power driven diesel for fuel aswell as turbos, great independent company that knows what's up. They also offer the afc live tuner which I personally think is awesome. They have essentially 2 stages. 1 for normal use, and 2 for normal use with a full fuel switch. They have injectors, and pump parts. For fuel I'd suggest 5x12 or 5x14 injectors, and maybe some cleaner dv's. Like stock 181 would likely get you to 500 ish horse but stay nice and clean. I would talk to Todd or one of the guys at power driven and he will help you set it up. But he will say something similar. Might give you a deal on a turbo, injectors, afc live and whatever else you get from them. And as for supply pump a fass 150 would be plenty if you go electric or pdd ( power driven diesel) makes a hot rod mechanical stock lift pump that will support 500 no problem and is a bit cheaper obviously. Traction bars, for the rear differential so it doesn't hop around. With all the torque you will be destroying driveshafts. That's all the power stuff but don't forget you need supporting mods like studs, valve springs etc.
 
  #9  
Old 02-08-2017, 06:01 PM
Levi Leffler's Avatar
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wpg6.5
Ok so single. A safe turbo would be a sxe s362, 62/68 .70 t3. Should make 500whp if you have it set a bit hotter but will definetly tow anything you need. Fast spool, good low end torque. I highly suggest power driven diesel for fuel aswell as turbos, great independent company that knows what's up. They also offer the afc live tuner which I personally think is awesome. They have essentially 2 stages. 1 for normal use, and 2 for normal use with a full fuel switch. They have injectors, and pump parts. For fuel I'd suggest 5x12 or 5x14 injectors, and maybe some cleaner dv's. Like stock 181 would likely get you to 500 ish horse but stay nice and clean. I would talk to Todd or one of the guys at power driven and he will help you set it up. But he will say something similar. Might give you a deal on a turbo, injectors, afc live and whatever else you get from them. And as for supply pump a fass 150 would be plenty if you go electric or pdd ( power driven diesel) makes a hot rod mechanical stock lift pump that will support 500 no problem and is a bit cheaper obviously. Traction bars, for the rear differential so it doesn't hop around. With all the torque you will be destroying driveshafts. That's all the power stuff but don't forget you need supporting mods like studs, valve springs etc.
okay thanks a bunch! I'm gonna get a hold of the guys at pdd and see what they can do for me. And you've definitely helped a lot. Any specific brand of trac bars? I don't want to go buy some and then start snapping things
 
  #10  
Old 02-09-2017, 12:05 PM
wpg6.5's Avatar
Diesel Wrench
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

not sure about good brands, i build my own. we used cpp ones once and they were complete junk with harbor freight heims. look for a quaity kit or see if someone local and reputable to build you some.
 




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:52 PM.