You won't need any parts at all to make 200whp just tuning and modding the afc. All free. Just do the afc mods, grind a 0/100 plate, get a boost elbow if your keeping the hx35 get a 3000 gsk since your against having usuable rpm. And adjust everything to desired smoke/ response levels and you will be around 250-300 wheel. Nearly for free minus the gov kit, and boost elbow.

 

not interested in running a boost elbow over an adjustable wastegate. Yeah the elbow is cheaper. but an adjustable gate is 200 bucks, and I can play with it to get it where I want it. The elbow just makes the turbo run whatever it does so feel like running, to my understanding. How am I supposed to get a good fuel/air mix like that? that's not to say that 5x12s will be inadequate, but will they be ideal for when the turbo decides to run 30psi of boost cause the WG ain't opening?

I don't mean to be obtuse. I just. . .am such a way. It has to make good sense. and a boost elbow is to me like my headlight wiring was.
It's a farmer fix.

My fuel pump is worth a months salary to me. I hope you understand why I am not keen on ripping it off and grinding down bits and pieces of it on a bench grinder.

edit: wow this post makes me sound like such an asshat. please don't take it as such.

 

after a quick search I see that adjustable elbows are available. this is something I had missed. thank you for pushing me in the right direction while I kicked and screamed.

However, i am lost over the "useable rpm" bit. if I don't use more than 2250 in my daily life, why would 3500rpm be "more useable"?
What I really want to avoid with higher rpm and power that uses that higher rpm is moving the powerband out of the range of rpm that I normally use. My truck spends it's life between 1250 and 2,000rpm when unloaded. 3rd to 4th usually happens at 1650, with the resulting 4th gear coming in at 1100 or so. Some folks say I'm lugging it, some don't. I'd imagine it's not great for the motor mounts, but when it's -25 and the truck ain't all that warm yet, I am more concerned with not revving out my cold engine, than I am with putting a little extra vibrational load on the mains.

 

dammit I really should READ all of the posts before I respond and put my foot in my mouth!

I'll take this into consideration. I had thought that camming it would move, or rather keep, the powerband steady. while I do know that you wind it right out on a dyno, I want to avoid moving the powerband out of my normal range of operation.

regardless, this post explains more than I had thought and I should have taken to time to READ it. I apologize for coming off like a dingus.

 

It's all good. I just don't like to see people get miss guided or spend unnecessary money to achieve simple goals. The gov springs make the fueling faster. So your stock truck now maxes out at 25-2800 now but power is lost much earlier. With a gov kit you don't need to use that power, but it makes the rpms before it much more affective and faster. Believe me I hardly ever use over 2500 on the street unless I'm playing around. But the spring makes the fueling much more affective. That mod alone will dramatically increase the feel of power. If you have the means to do valve springs or can control your foot to 3200 ish a 4 gsk is the way to go. They are a bit touchy with a stick but a very fun mod. If not you can get a 3 gsk and install it tight to max out around 3200 ish. It doesn't force you to use that rpm but it makes the power band much wider. As for the afc mods and tuning, watch some videos. It's really quite easy and once you open it up you will realize how simple it is. In all it took me about an hour to do the afc mods and cut a plate on my buddies truck and wow what a diff. Along with the gov spring it was easily 275-300 before the turbo. This is on a 180 truck mind you. As for 5x12's they will wake it up a bit but all that fuel will be lost in an hx35. I personally would just clamp the gate for now do the mods and gsk and see how you like it. Without spending to much. I'm a strong believer in doing things once. Just save for a turbo around 60mm or even build a hx35/40 hybrid, some 5x12's and you can make a solid 400 horse with a 3gsk and work towards head studs. I really wish I could talk to guys like you on the phone or on person to give advice and steer you in a good order of operation to achieve your goals. I understand not everyone is looking for a drag monster and some just want a solid 3-400 horse. Which is very attainable. Just don't go spending 300 dollars on snake oil hp gains like cold air intakes and stuff. Money is best spent somewhere else. If you ever are interested in a good chat I don't mind a phone convo one evening to give you some good advice.

 

Where are you located? you said "Canada" and that makes you closer than most. You said "-30" and that makes you generally in either MB, SK, or AB.

I'm likely getting a boost controller and elbow as a Christmas gift. My friends know that a gift given toward the Basket Case never goes amiss, and those things are cheaply done. the rest will likely wait till spring as I fix a little thing here or there on the truck during winter. By the by, I'm a bit of a performance n00b but i'm not a total dweeb. I'm not expecting my BHAF to be giving me 45HP.

I'm a framer. when it cold, we don't work. Winter is always a bad time. I cannot wait to have my Journeymans ticket and get a job where I am not always outside freezing my dick off, or out of work.

Side note, the Basket Case has headlights again, and will be getting it's black bumper this friday!

I see why my headlight switch didn't work. . .



I also see why that toggle switch the P.O. just decided to wire in on the dash got so hot. . .not pictured is the fact that the wiring goes from the battery. . . to the switch. .. to the lights. No fuse. No relay. Nothing. Not like I coulda burnt my truck down or anything.

so, I ripped out the farmer wired circuit (god I really am starting to dislike farmers, considering I bought this headache from one of them), and wired tings together with stuff like. . .solder. . .and cool little accessories like. . shrink wrap.

end result?

 

I'm from winnipeg Manitoba. Gets pretty chilly here that's forsure. I wouldn't even bother with an elbow or anything. Just un hook the gate. You aren't really producing enough fuel to make any dangerous amount of boost. Better to spend the money on a set of delivery valves or even a crazy Carls intake horn. Or a gsk

 

The gsk would be in the same price range as a boost elbow and controller thingy. About 100$ is a gsk. Donno if you have exhaust yet either but if you haven't done the dp or anything just save up. Since your goals are pretty modest I'd save up for a super b or a killer b from bd. they come pre wastegated, excellent product and their kits include a hx40 dp in the price. Some fuel mods, timing and the turbo you'd be very happy with minimal money.

 

Could I not get a turbo from BW and save the hassle of paying BD markup on what is essentially an S300?

 

Ya forsure the thing tho is they almost all come t4 and with varying housing sizes depending on size. And no wastegate. Which isn't bad. But to run say a boxish s360 you will have to have t4 adapter or manifold, get the tightest t4 housing which I believe is a .9 that's devised unless you can find the rare .83, make sure the fuel plate is tuned so you don't over boost unless you get an ext wastegate and manifold to support one as well unless you plan on a custom dp