Fixing the 12 Valve
 

This week I just installed my boost gauge from ISO-pro. It took less than an hour to install, and I gave it power from the headlight switch, with the dimmer function.

I have a few questions what should be the average boost around 60, mine is at 5psi.

Now for some newbie questions. Before I do any real mods I will be installing a EGT gauge, and a fuel pressure gauge.

I am going to eventually install the 4K GSK kit, with 60lbs valve springs. And a boost elbow to have the boost around 30 psi. So I was wondering what kind of fuel plate, and injectors would you guys recommend, to have a safe set up running that kind of boost.

I was thinking that a 10 fuel plate would control the egts, but would a #100 work better with that set up?

I am still running the stock clutch in the truck, should I also consider replacing it with one that can take more power?

Thanks
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Is the truck an auto or Manual ? ( auto would have 180 pump, manual would be 215 pump) ..

tire size, gearing, current changes ( air filter,Exh,Etc ..) ..

Sorry for not providing that information, I could not figure out how to add that info on my account.

Its a 5 speed, 3.55 gears, with 285x75x16 tires, AFe stage 2 air intake, AFe intake horn, homemade straight pipe, so still running the 3 inch factory pipe, and a Isspro 60 psi boost gauge.

#6 fuel plate is my favorite. stock injectors will do you just fine.

Will a #6 fuel plate, and a boost elbow be safe for the stock clutch, or should I also replace it with a clutch that can handle the added power.

It depends what your future power plans are. My ten plate, tuning ff, stock 175 horse motor, he351 swap clamped gate hitting 42 psi, timing, and 4gsk could smoke a center force single disk so I upgraded to a sbc 3250 dual. It's always better to over build when it comes to transmission. I'd say if you ever plan to put in injectors or studs, or swap turbos from the hx 35 at least get a very high end single disk from valiar or sbc if you are looking anywhere near 450-500 horse I'd opt for the 3250 style dual disk to hold the power. Just my 2 cents.

I'm not planing on not going to crazy so around 270 horses is my goal. But I understand where you are coming from in regards to over building the truck rather than under building it and breaking stuff latter down the road.

You could quite easily make 270 with everything you've mentioned. Basically any plate will do it. If you have a 215 pump you basically just need to push everything forward and tune the afc for smoke and spool. Set the elbow to whatever psi you desire and go. The 4gsk might be a bit wasted at that power level but it defiantly does add a fair bit of pep to the truck. You won't need injectors or anything. Just stick with tuning, and get a quality single clutch. Not a hd stock replacement, go for a sbc or valair single and it will give you room to grow of you ever wanna break the 300 mark. Making power becomes addictive so be careful :p

I can understand how power can be addictive lol. I will probably only be adding a pryo, and fuel pressure gauge till the end of the year, North Dakota will get pretty cold soon. In the spring I will add the plate, tune the afc... for the second time. First time I had the pump sent out to be manufactured, they set the smoke screw all the way towards the engine, so the truck would smoke like a freight train. It was cool for a day, then I just felt like an ass driving it like that. And probably make my own adjustable boost elbow.

Over the summer I will replace the clutch to something more suitable in my power band. I have just started looking, so I have no preferences yet. For the time I go between the tuning and clutch, should I be worried that I could do damage in that time frame with those mods?

Also what is your average fuel economy?
Thanks

Breaking something with 270 horse? No likely not. Unless you were down right being dumb. I got around 18 city before on my stock set up. And that was ripping a bit. Now that I have 5x12, hybrid dv's and all the other recent mods it's much easier to ruin any mpg. Driving nice you should beable to attain 20-25 properly tuned. Myn is in a Chevy so I might be a bit lighter which could help.

Wow I get on a good day 18 if I'm lucky, 16 if I let her have it

I had 4.10 and 265 tires , I was getting 18-20 all day ..

I now have 3.55's . should get 23-25 on the freeway ..

As far as your power .. a stock set of 215 injectors and your stock pump with 191 DV's would be a great combo .. Factory timing needs to be re-set to 16*-18*.... then is will run great ..

Also get your fuel pressure up there .. bout 26-30 PSI minimum ..

Keep usposted .. :pca1:

As for your fuel plate, i really recomend you get a #10 plate, i have one, it's a nice moderate plate. A
#100 plate is a really agressive plate. A 4000 springs is really not needed for what you what, i'd go with a 3000 spring set, i have that on mine.
And a pyro gauge is recomended if you don't have one installed yet.

Well he's gonna wanna haul A$$ .. so 4K is gonna get ya there, also if you do go 4K's .. make sure your fuel pressure is closer to the 30-32 psi .. other wise on the top it will get to low ... :tu:

With mods like your's what am I looking at in terms of reliability. Last year there was only one day my truck wouldn't start and that was -35 and it wasn't plugged in. ( I lived at the dorms my first year at college) Now I have an apartment with a plug in.

I am just trying to make affordable power, nothing too crazy. I don't want to buy cheap crap that will break itself, or the truck.

Going with a 4K set up will I have to get a aftermarket fuel pump like a fass or something of the sort to minimize the risk of killing the regular stock pump?

I will be adding a fuel pressure gauge, and pryo. I'll be putting them in where the pull out cup holders used to be and replace the cup holders with one from Geno's

You can run 4K with stock LP, You will need to restrict the return line though .. and adjustabel OFV will make wonders happen, I recently did Mine and it runs awesome !!!

Larryb - LarryB's Dodge Diesel, 94-98, Fuel Pressure Adjustment Kit

the above link is what i installed .. my Fuel pressure before was about 15 psi .. now after its 30psi .. WHAT A HUGE DIFFERENCE !!!!!! :tu:

I can bump the key and it fires up when cold ( 40*) .. not an issue, it will do better cold I'm sure !! :tu:

http://http://www.dieseltruckresourc...3&d=1284090799

I want to do something like this, but using abs plastic, to make it look more stock

Thanks for that link, it kills two birds with one stone

:notworking:
.. Where is the pic ?

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...3&d=1284090799

try that link

Nice looking set up .. I have a tripple gauge pillar mounted .. its easier to keep the eyes on the road that way ...

I drove a truck with a three gauge pillar mount, I'm 5'5'' so to mean it seems like it can hide cars behind it.

Yeah I can understand that ... GF is 4'11" ... lol.. shorty !!! :tu:

Dude it sucks I bought the truck with a 4" lift, and the next day I bought bully dog steps so I didn't have jump into my truck lol

LMAO !!!

thats great !! :choochoo:

Would 30 psi be a safe boost pressure so I do not have to worry about the head gasket blowing out, I have seen that they can blow anywhere from 35-45psi

If you installed studs and Machined rocker pedestal's .. you can run 60# give or take ..

Its all about cylinder pressure .. if you bump your timing you increase cyl pressure
If you add boost pressure you increase fuel .... ETC .. all of these together are what pops a HG ..

You need to spend wisely, put your money into insurance that's guaranteed to be a good step forward ..

Other wise you CAN run 100# boost .. wont last long and no one knows when they will pop .....

One way you WILL pop the HG is high EGT's when the engine is cold .. I was racin mine when it was cold .. didnt know you could vaporize the coolant in the head .. pressurized the HG to failure .. now I know !!!:argh:

One way you WILL pop the HG is high EGT's when the engine is cold .. I was racin mine when it was cold .. didnt know you could vaporize the coolant in the head .. pressurized the HG to failure .. now I know !!!


A good word from the wise

Yup .. I had just gotten my new TC installed and was happy as heck to drive it ... then about the time I got home .. after 2 races .. Now I had a Leaking under my T-stat ...

SO.. for the winter I have put in Bars-leeak Copper radiator fix .. not leaking as of yet .. but .. Will see .. :tu:

That blows. I finally change out my main crank seal after the leak just became a pia. Now I have to change the brakes this weekend

Yup .. these trucks are kinda a PITA when it comes to needing stuff .. BUT .. I know mine works it's tailgate off freequently .. :c:

Back again, pretty much a nube question

Industrial Injection | IIJ-DP12V.1 | Industrial Injection DP12V.1 150Lbs Seat Pressure 4500 RPM and Under - Alligator Performance

here is the link to some valve springs I'm looking at. I have been trying to figure out what seat pressure is :argh:, could you dumb it down a bit for me?

Oh and the brake pads I put in are ceramic from Napa
NAPA AUTO PARTS
If you're in need of pads I recommend these, made a noticeable difference in braking. No more pulling, previous owner only changed on side, making it pull to the right under heavy braking

Seat pressure is the pressure of the valve when closed. That's how the springs are rated. Regular stock ones are supposed to be something like 60 lbs and 60 pound aftermarket springs are supposed to be 60 lbs ontop of that so actually around 120. Now some very or claim from 120-150. Industrial injection makes their 150's which basically are 60 pound springs but are called 150's so from what I've taken from it they are a true 150lb spring. And that's all you need to push 4000 rpm or lots of boost or both. There is a step higher for 12's but they aren't needed until ultra high performance. Hope that helps

Thanks for clarifying that for me. That is why I was looking at those Industrial injection, rather than the Pac Brakes. I would rather spend the money now rather than pay for it later. I used geno's garage for a reference for these parts. Which valve spring compressor do you prefer? I have read good things about the Tork compressor, and none about the Lisle one, it seems to me that the lisle you have to use hand to force the spring down, but I don't know

Cummins 12V Valve Spring Compressor-Geno's Garage

Lisle 16750 valve spring compressor-Geno's Garage

So I was messing around with the truck today, and noticed something strange with my AFC. It only has 3 bolts in it, its missing the "brake off" screw. Last year I had my P-7100 overhauled, due to a rack issue, and the plunger was faulty don't quote me on that though. That was when I had just gotten the truck and was a virgin to the internal working of the P-7100, and 12 Valve. Now I have learned and know my fair share of information to get myself into enough trouble :w2:. Anyway what type of bolt can I use to repair this, and from what I have read that running with only 3 bolts will make a leak possible? Thanks

should be fine .. mine has 3 :tu:

Thanks man :tu:. What do you think of the valve spring compressors I had posted earlier

Those look cool .. Might have to try one .. doing 100# springs for 4K .. just cause :rocking:

http://www.genosgarage.com/TORK-TOOL.../#.VCyidPldVlo

Probably gonna use this one !! Looks more substantial ..

I just order that same valve spring compressor today with a pyro so it should be in before the weekend.

Before I get into over my head the truck has 150,000 miles on it and its been stock since the day till I bought it. Should it be fine with these mods, if I don't beat the piss out of it everyday while driving.

How many miles do you have on yours?

mine just hit 200K the other day ( Last week I think ) .. Studs are a good Idea if you havent already thought about it .. its always good to have an insurance policy for the HG .. wich is a real Beach when they go .. and always at the wrong time ... :argh:

can be done one bolt out, one stud in .. with sealent and torqued one by one in sequence .. all will be good for a long time :tu: ( typically anyways= Perfect world )