How long have you been running your current set up, and yeah I have thought about head studs and gasket, I'm just stock piling parts over the winter so when it gets warmer I'll have everything ready to go

I have put about 10k Since my mods .. But I also dont lug er down ... that will kill the Hg too .. power should be made above 1800-2K .. :tu:

Safe that way

I think that for right now I'm just going to put a #10 plate in, 4k gsk, 60lbs springs intake plus exhaust, just so I don't break and blow stuff up. When the spring comes I will be getting head studs, hg, south bend clutch 5th gear fix at a local shop I don't have the equipment to lift everything.

How did you put your pryo in, I have seen many different ways, and I personally like doing the drilling with the engine running to blow out any metal fragments

I purchaced a DPS X 3Pc manifold .. pools better and it has all the holes 1 for pyro and another for a Drivepressure gauge :tu:

Lucky :moon:. I have been looking into it however for my power level it's not beneficial.

Side note I got my 4k and valve springs in the mail today. Industrial injection does not provide instruction information on how to do it. Do you know of any that exists? I have tried PAC brake for their valve spring insulation guide but their link is broken

Thanks I owe you many beers for the help

"very easy. make sure to get the KD Tools spring compressor part number 2078 or 3271 (the 3271 I prefer cause it allows for removal of the handle and use of a 5/8" socket if you like and also has another arm length size). Remove one rocker arm system at a time after valve covers are removed. The big 18mm head bolt on the rocker cradle is also a head bolt so make sure to retorque upon installation. use a 22 (I used a 24 mm cause it's all I had) mm socket to rotate the engine using the alternator nut in a counter clockwise motion. it will not turn clockwise. watch whatever cylinder you want to change until the exhaust valve closes cause now you know you're not on the lift. take your feeler gauge and slide a .020 under the exhaust and .010 under the intake to verify you are on the base circle of the camshaft and have lash. now go ahead and remove that cylinder's rocker arm. put the spring compressor on the spring and push down to make sure the valve is able to go down. now rotate the motor counter clock wise via the alternator nut until the spring, compressor, and valve come up to their highest point. take a small hammer and LIGHTLY tap down on the compressor to free up the valve locks. use a pen magnet to remove the valve locks. put the retainer on the new spring and screw the new spring and retainer into the valve compressor as far as you can to get the spring to compress as far as possible. put the spring, compressor, retainer over the valve and drop the retainers into place. you should be able to get them to slide around the valve grooves very easily with this compressor. now unscrew the compressor and that spring is done. move on to the intake or exhaust depending on which you started with.

the back rocker has a trick to removal. that trick is in the form of a hole in the underneath side of the cowl. there is a rubber block that must be pulled out to get to the hole. now take off the rear rocker assembly by sliding the long head bolt up into the access hole and remove out. You may not have to do that with number 5 but there is a hole for it as well"

When checking for valve lash that would be when the piston is TDC so that they would be the specified clearances for the intake, and exhaust, correct me if I'm mistaken but at TDC you should be able to put a feeler gauge under the rocker arm where it meets the valve. After reading your explanation why would I rotate the engine to the highest point have I have set the piston TDC, wouldn't I be able to just compress the springs to the point at which I could pull the valve locks out with a dentists pick? Also when dropping the pressure on the compressor to switch out the springs how much should the valve drop when I do this.

Also will I need any special tools to take the rocker bolts off? And what torque setting will I be using when I re-torque the bolts

Thanks

When checking for valve lash that would be when the piston is TDC so that they would be the specified clearances for the intake, and exhaust, correct me if I'm mistaken but at TDC you should be able to put a feeler gauge under the rocker arm where it meets the valve. correct After reading your explanation why would I rotate the engine to the highest point have I have set the piston TDC on the compression and power stroke (for the most part) the valves are closed, so in theory you could get a reading of correct lash but the piston may not be at tdc., wouldn't I be able to just compress the springs to the point at which I could pull the valve locks out with a dentists pick? Also when dropping the pressure on the compressor to switch out the springs how much should the valve drop when I do this. the valve seal should hold the valve in place, the piston being at tdc is just a precaution. if the valve drops down just give it a good tug up and it should stay.

Also will I need any special tools to take the rocker bolts off? And what torque setting will I be using when I re-torque the bolts
No You will not, you will need to re torque although i do not have the spec off the top of my head

Thanks

Also added, when both vales are closed (rockers loose)it will be at tdc when its companion cylinder is in valve overlap (both rockers tight)
Companions are as follows 1-6, 2-5, 3-4.

for the record i was trying out a new way to answer peoples posts, let me know what you think....:tu:

Hey thanks for the information, just another question where can I find information on how to install the 4k gsk I can not find an actual sheet for step by step. The fellas at industrial injection do not provide an install guide, go figure

Never mind that post I found out a nice install guide at atsdiesel.com they have a lot of install guides

Quick question is the bolts holding the fuel plate in abnormally tight, or am I just being a pansy? lol

When you did your 4k gsk did you go threw the fuel plate hole, or the access panel

If the fuel plate has very been touched than it may be quite tight.
But I go though the "plug" in the side of the pump to get to them

I haven't found a good guide of how to take all of the stuff off so that can get into the pump from that side, why wouldn't you recommend taking it out through the fuel plate hole

Pm me, I'll set you up with what you need

I just pmd you

Digging this post out from the grave literally 4 years almost. I've learned more about the 12 valve took me 3 years to get the 4 GSK into my truck along with the valve springs, which was an easy job, except the keepers in cylinder 6. But the grease trick helped keep them on the valves. Put in a 4 inch straight pipe.

I've been wanting to get a new turbo for a while, along with head studs, a new exhaust manifold. But that never really an option since my truck would be down for more than a few days. But I managed to get a $400 beater Subaru out of my local junkyard, which has turned into my daily driver.

I switch between driving the truck and the Subaru every week or so, last week I was driving the truck I noticed a large oil spot in-front of the truck. SOB I thought the front seal went bad, turns out it was the power steering pump that has developed a leak.

With the truck being down now for a decent amount of time and only getting off 1 day every 14 days. I decided to get a new turbo a BW 363, head studs, new rocker pedestals, and a 3 piece manifold.

Since I was not able to find a machine shop in reasonable distance that could machine the rockers, I bought some online that were already machined but its only the pedestals. Is there any special way to pull them arms and press the pins out?