Trans shifting issues
#1
Trans shifting issues 1997 12v auto
Just curious would a 4k kit eliminate my problem of the engine almost governing out before my tranny will shift when I'm on the throttle hard? (Shifts normal when just driving around town) the only mods are a 0 fuel plate slid forward and the starwheel turned a couple clicks, aftermarket intake and straightpipe. The trans was rebuilt at 130 k and the truck now has 150 k
Last edited by Cody1997cummins; 08-09-2014 at 04:19 PM. Reason: More info added
#2
#5
No, not at all. I was only suggesting that if there's something wrong with the trans, allowing it to fuel through the point where it isn't working right (while possibly accomplishing your goal on the surface) may end up making matters worse in the long run. I really have no idea, other than that the problem sounds fishy to me, but that could just be the way you describe it. The autos in these trucks are a bit of an odd duck, and unless you're pretty familiar with how it all operates, performance issues can be made sort of tough to diagnose because of it. As for me, whenever I hear anything involving shifting, I generally blame the TV cable first. It's easy to adjust, easy to adjust wrong, and can cause some pretty serious problems if it's out far enough for long enough. Turning up the power just exacerbates the situation. Not that a GSK turns things up much, but that isn't really my point.
#6
X2 on the TV cable, it affects shift points and holding pressure on the clutch packs. Its a good thing to check to make sure you don't roast your transmission prematurely. The governor solenoid could also be causing your problem. Is the transmission stock or does it have any modifications done to it?
#7
As far as the auto tranny goes this is my first one so I'm just learning as I go. The guy I bought it from claimed it was upgraded but all the papers say in reman torque converter new valve body and clutch packs, so I'm not thinking it's much of an upgrade if any also with the tv cable how do you go about adjusting it. I'm aware of where it's at and all but is it just a simple one man deal or do you need an extra set of hands. Thanks for the help so far this is what I was hoping to get out of this forum
#8
You don't need two people, but it's helpful. First you should pop the cable off the peg it attaches to on the bellcrank/throttle linkage, up on the engine. Follow the cable down to the throttle lever on the transmission, and be sure the lever is in the idle (full forward) position. Make sure that the cable end back up at the top is centered on the peg where it attaches, with only the slightest play (about 1mm) either way. If it is, hook it back up (this is where another set of eyes is nice) and make sure that both the bellcrank and throttle lever on the trans move simultaniously. If the throttle lever on the trans is either ahead of or behind the linkage on the bellcrank, it needs adjustment.
Up on the engine side, you should see where the TV cable passes through a bracket, where the cable sheathing ends and the bare cable comes out. The cable housing in this bracket has a square button on it (can be really frickin' hard to push) that allows the cable to slide forward and backward in the bracket housing, which will tighten or loosen the cable adjustment. Too loose will have lower line pressure, with soft, early shifts. Tightening it up will give you more line pressure, firmer shifts and later shift points. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY when making this adjustment! If the cable is good, the bellcrank and throttle lever move as they should and rest where they should, it shouldn't take more than a quarter inch of adjustment at most to get it shifting where it belongs. Going too far either way will screw things up.
Up on the engine side, you should see where the TV cable passes through a bracket, where the cable sheathing ends and the bare cable comes out. The cable housing in this bracket has a square button on it (can be really frickin' hard to push) that allows the cable to slide forward and backward in the bracket housing, which will tighten or loosen the cable adjustment. Too loose will have lower line pressure, with soft, early shifts. Tightening it up will give you more line pressure, firmer shifts and later shift points. A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY when making this adjustment! If the cable is good, the bellcrank and throttle lever move as they should and rest where they should, it shouldn't take more than a quarter inch of adjustment at most to get it shifting where it belongs. Going too far either way will screw things up.
Last edited by JBearSVT; 08-10-2014 at 01:52 PM.
#10