Beginner Basics
#1
Beginner Basics
Hello! I have a 97' 12v. cummins and would love to start tuning it up if i knew where to start! I don't want to turn the white car behind me black but I'd like some smoke and power increase. I've read a lot about the afc (fuel screw vs. fuel plate, star wheel, etc.) and also when/what gauges to put in? I don't have a whole lot of extra cash so cheap and easy tune ups are what I'm looking for! Thanks!
PS my buddy and I tried to take my turbo ring out and the sucker wouldn't budge. Any suggestions?
PS my buddy and I tried to take my turbo ring out and the sucker wouldn't budge. Any suggestions?
#2
well, first off, when it comes to messing with trucks, dont listen to your buddy who has a friend whos dad (etc) is a diesel mechanic. that'll just give you a messed up truck, and your "friend" will just shrug there shoulders and say well it worked on so-and-so's truck.
this is what ive found from me and my buddys building trucks, i.e. my 650 12v, another 600 12v, so on and so fourth. our trucks are guinea pigs for our ideas.
the first thing, is get you some gauges. so you can keep a look out for things. you can cheap out and get used ones, glowshifts, etc. im fond of isspro.
another first, is intake and straight piped exhaust. 4 inch is great, but you can straight the stock if budgets are way tight.
-fuel plate. i currently dont run one, but i dont reccomend taking them out. 1000 hp 13mm pumps have plates and afc's, why should you take yours out?
start by taking the afc housing off, and loosen the bolts holding the plate. slide the plate all the way towards the radiator, then put it all back together and see how you like it.
if that doesn't suite you, grind the plate. most people opt for grinding it flat into a zero plate, but look up guides and start experimenting with it. remember, you can take metal off, but cant put it back on!
-next would be the start wheel, you can unscrew the hex bolt off the top of the afc housing off, to reveal the start wheel. (getting that hex off for the first time is a P.I.T.A )
once off, you can turn the start wheel tighter. for get a flat head screw driver, and push from the left side to the right.( start away from the motor, and turn towards it)
-the silencer ring; it can be a pain also, but it's just a snap ring and then it comes out. the snap ring can be hard to get under, just work with it easy. dont damage fins or housing.
-governer springs; this is one of the best bang for your buck mods for these trucks. it really wakes them up. there are 3k, 4k, and 5k springs. you wont have the fuel for 4k till you start getting into the pump more, but i reccomend buying a 4k kit and leaving the small spring out. tighten them down by 2 clicks, and you should be able to spin to 3500 rpms.
--- so far, everything ive listed so far, the stock auto trans will hold. (if not beat on daily, aor already hurt)
-if you beat on it, expect the trans to start giving you problems in 3 weeks. I.E my buddy had a stock rebuild with 60k on it, i took out the plate, gutted the afc, and put in a 3k gsk. it wouldn't lock up and take off in 2nd. this is after burnouts, racing, 4x4 launches, and overdrive lugs daily
-if you have a built trans, or aftermarket clutch, etc, then we can start getting into injectors. 5x.12's will give you fuel for 400ish hp.
-turbo a good upgrade is a hx35-40 hybird. take a hx35 wheel and and put in a hx40. (i think thats right, haven't done it in a while)
-another cheap turbo upgrade is hx35 over a ht3b. can get out for under 1k$ and support up to 550 hp!!
this is a basic run down, if you have any other questions feel free to ask or message it. i love to help, and love learning stuff.
basic run down of mods-power.
300 hp-
-3kgsk
-0 plate
-intake
-exhaust
-90 horse injectors
mild trans
hx35 hybird
400 hp
-4kgsk
-custom plate
-afc mods
-150 hp injectors
-hx40 turbo
i can list more ,but then your starting to get pricy.
have a great day, and let me know if i can help!
this is what ive found from me and my buddys building trucks, i.e. my 650 12v, another 600 12v, so on and so fourth. our trucks are guinea pigs for our ideas.
the first thing, is get you some gauges. so you can keep a look out for things. you can cheap out and get used ones, glowshifts, etc. im fond of isspro.
another first, is intake and straight piped exhaust. 4 inch is great, but you can straight the stock if budgets are way tight.
-fuel plate. i currently dont run one, but i dont reccomend taking them out. 1000 hp 13mm pumps have plates and afc's, why should you take yours out?
start by taking the afc housing off, and loosen the bolts holding the plate. slide the plate all the way towards the radiator, then put it all back together and see how you like it.
if that doesn't suite you, grind the plate. most people opt for grinding it flat into a zero plate, but look up guides and start experimenting with it. remember, you can take metal off, but cant put it back on!
-next would be the start wheel, you can unscrew the hex bolt off the top of the afc housing off, to reveal the start wheel. (getting that hex off for the first time is a P.I.T.A )
once off, you can turn the start wheel tighter. for get a flat head screw driver, and push from the left side to the right.( start away from the motor, and turn towards it)
-the silencer ring; it can be a pain also, but it's just a snap ring and then it comes out. the snap ring can be hard to get under, just work with it easy. dont damage fins or housing.
-governer springs; this is one of the best bang for your buck mods for these trucks. it really wakes them up. there are 3k, 4k, and 5k springs. you wont have the fuel for 4k till you start getting into the pump more, but i reccomend buying a 4k kit and leaving the small spring out. tighten them down by 2 clicks, and you should be able to spin to 3500 rpms.
--- so far, everything ive listed so far, the stock auto trans will hold. (if not beat on daily, aor already hurt)
-if you beat on it, expect the trans to start giving you problems in 3 weeks. I.E my buddy had a stock rebuild with 60k on it, i took out the plate, gutted the afc, and put in a 3k gsk. it wouldn't lock up and take off in 2nd. this is after burnouts, racing, 4x4 launches, and overdrive lugs daily
-if you have a built trans, or aftermarket clutch, etc, then we can start getting into injectors. 5x.12's will give you fuel for 400ish hp.
-turbo a good upgrade is a hx35-40 hybird. take a hx35 wheel and and put in a hx40. (i think thats right, haven't done it in a while)
-another cheap turbo upgrade is hx35 over a ht3b. can get out for under 1k$ and support up to 550 hp!!
this is a basic run down, if you have any other questions feel free to ask or message it. i love to help, and love learning stuff.
basic run down of mods-power.
300 hp-
-3kgsk
-0 plate
-intake
-exhaust
-90 horse injectors
mild trans
hx35 hybird
400 hp
-4kgsk
-custom plate
-afc mods
-150 hp injectors
-hx40 turbo
i can list more ,but then your starting to get pricy.
have a great day, and let me know if i can help!
#3
I was wondering what you have to start with ??? ( cummins girl ) .. is your truck a manual, or auto, all stock or some mods done ?
( reason is - auto should be 180 to start, manual will be 215 hp stock ..)
Can you give me some info ( if you can look on the drivers side of the engine near the front there is a tag from Cummins .... looking for the CPL # .. this will give real info ) .. if you can find this it can help ..
( reason is - auto should be 180 to start, manual will be 215 hp stock ..)
Can you give me some info ( if you can look on the drivers side of the engine near the front there is a tag from Cummins .... looking for the CPL # .. this will give real info ) .. if you can find this it can help ..
#4
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