Seriously .... I have been rebuilding,building, and working on engines for nearly 20 years ..... I have never seen or herd of an engine overheating to the point of "warping" a block ... The head ... Yes obviously .... But never a block
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Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1054138)
Seriously .... I have been rebuilding,building, and working on engines for nearly 20 years ..... I have never seen or herd of an engine overheating to the point of "warping" a block ... The head ... Yes obviously .... But never a block
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Yea someone got taken for a ride there. Pulled literally hundreds of heads and never once found a block issue with a straight edge. Had one get so hot it locked up and scored the walls heavily....deck was perfect! Even if it was it's not a big job to fix! Seen blocks decked for performance reasons and seem some decked for pitting but never a big one like these for a "warp".
Maybe a touch of a frown in a couple cases but never a reman type of situation! Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
well then you all haven't seen what this (block) read 9000 inbetween the two back cylinder and in the middle of the block it read 7000 with a straight edge anything over 4000 is no good. Yes the block was warped 9,000 and the head was even warped and cracked. :bat:
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Originally Posted by cummins Pride
(Post 1054387)
well then you all haven't seen what this (block) read 9000 inbetween the two back cylinder and in the middle of the block it read 7000 with a straight edge anything over 4000 is no good. Yes the block was warped 9,000 and the head was even warped and cracked. :bat:
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
"read 9000". lol This site is amazing.
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:argh:.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them :c: |
Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1054416)
:argh:.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them :c: Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 |
Originally Posted by mysterync
(Post 1054424)
The Cummins brand thermostats already have that feature!
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Originally Posted by the.beard
(Post 1054447)
That's how I busted a local BM parts guy trying to pass aftermarket parts off as genuine Cummins parts. Tried to sell me a thermostat with one bypass hole.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by 4x4manonbroke
(Post 1054416)
:argh:.. 9 thousandths is actually not too bad ... i have seen N14's at nearly double that ... still runnin years later ...
get the block decked , mill the head, use a thicker copper under the injector to correct spray depth and you should be just fine ... do a coolant bypass while your at it... will keep the head more evenly heated and will keep ya from vaporizing the coolant in the head ... drill a couple of small holes in T-stat as well .. helps minimize back pressure over all and will aid in heating up the bulb in the stat ... been doing that for years not ... to all of them :c: |
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